Waterfall edge coffee table

[Steve Catts]

Hi all,
I am trying to think through the challenges of executing a coffee table with waterfall edges on the ends (top slab has continuous miter at both ends so that slab flows all the way to the floor). The table needs to be 24-28" wide and I see no way to execute the miter on my cabinet saw even if I use a crosscut sled. I am assuming that the slab thickness would be 1-1/4 to 1-1/2" thickness.

The second question is best means to fix the miter joints. I don't have a Domino. The only way I can think of to add needed strength would be a cleat on the underside screwed to both sides of the joint.

Please share thoughts. I sure don't want to get into the middle of this and find my approach was not sound.

Thanks, Steve

[John C Bush]

Look for a new friend that has slider TS. I asked a local(Urban Hardwoods--Seattle)slab/natural edge table fab co how they got such perfect 45's on the 48"+ wide tables with the waterfall ends and they said it was easy-----With their $40K Martin slider.

[Prashun Patel]

Circular saw and a straight edge or track.
Then shoot the edges with a plane.

I would find some one to lend a dowel jig or domino. It will make the joint strong and will help alignment during clamping and glue up.

[Ken Combs]

Hi all,
I am trying to think through the challenges of executing a coffee table with waterfall edges on the ends (top slab has continuous miter at both ends so that slab flows all the way to the floor). The table needs to be 24-28" wide and I see no way to execute the miter on my cabinet saw even if I use a crosscut sled. I am assuming that the slab thickness would be 1-1/4 to 1-1/2" thickness.

The second question is best means to fix the miter joints. I don't have a Domino. The only way I can think of to add needed strength would be a cleat on the underside screwed to both sides of the joint.

Please share thoughts. I sure don't want to get into the middle of this and find my approach was not sound.

Thanks, Steve

Maybe something like this:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ter_joint.html
use a good straight edge guide, multiple passes to accommodate the depth. Then use a slotting bit to cut a loose spline groove in the matching flat faces, stopping short of the end so it wouldn't be visible.

From looking at the the pics, I think cutting from the back and creeping up on the depth you could get a good joint on wood up to maybe close to 2 inches. If the flat surface ends up being deep enough, cut a couple of spline grooves.

[Robert LaPlaca]

Look for a new friend that has slider TS. I asked a local(Urban Hardwoods--Seattle)slab/natural edge table fab co how they got such perfect 45's on the 48"+ wide tables with the waterfall ends and they said it was easy-----With their $40K Martin slider.

Indeed, was watching This Old House and Norm was visiting a company in Pennsylvania that makes wood counter tops, for this remodel the kitchen island had a complete waterfall style counter top (your project on steroids) the top was huge. The company cut the miter on their 40K Altendorf slider, in two passes, one heavy cut to establish the bevel, a second was a very light skimming cut.. Miter was reinforced with Domino's..

[Steve Jenkins]

Where are you? There may be someone close with a slider that can help out. I help whenever I can. You can use biscuits to reinforce the miter also. If you use a spline make a special one that is cross grain so you don't inhibit movement in the top and ends

[Joe Adams]

As I recall, several options for reinforcing the waterfall miter joint were discussed in a recent issue of Fine Woodworking.

[Victor Robinson]

As I recall, several options for reinforcing the waterfall miter joint were discussed in a recent issue of Fine Woodworking.

Ah yeah, that was a neat article. It is in #254. The author describes making floating "L-tenons", and I thought particularly interesting was the laminated aluminum and wood option. Basically just 1/8" aluminum angle attached to wood with polyurethane glue. Seems like they would incredibly easy to fabricate. As for strength, a comparison would be interesting as I imagine the weak point is the wood-metal glue joint.

[Lou Ortiz]

Not sure where you're located, but happy to help with the miters and dominos if you're anywhere near DC

[Chris Fournier]

Good mitre joint and two rows of biscuits and you are done. You could certainly make a single use fixture in your TS to cut this with no fuss.

[Sean Troy]

Circular saw and a straight edge or track.
Then shoot the edges with a plane.

I would find some one to lend a dowel jig or domino. It will make the joint strong and will help alignment during clamping and glue up.

This would be the quickest and easiest way to do it.

[lowell holmes]

This sounds like a splendid opportunity to buy a track saw.

[Dave Verstraete]

I cut this miter on my tablesaw. I reinforced the miter by drilling dowel holes every 2 inches perpendicular to the miter.
Bubinga Table.jpg

[William Hamilton]

Full-blind dovetails.. muahahaha.. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/te...the-rest-of-us