Removing polycrylic. Is it possible?

[Doug W Swanson]

I posted a question about sealing barnwood a few weeks ago and ended up using Minwax Polycrylic with an hvlp sprayer and got some great advice.

So as happy as I was with the polycrylic when I applied it to my barnwood, I'm very disappointed as to how it turned out when I applied it to my wood shelf.

The shelf /ledge is a piece from an old hay wagon. It's very rustic and has lots of character and since I wanted to preserve that character, I applied what I thought were two thin coats of Polycrylic. Now that it's dry, it makes the wood look very plastic like. There is a little more shine than I wanted (I can deal with that I guess) but instead of looking like a piece of old weathered wood with character, the shelf looks like it came out of a mold from the fiberglass factory.

I've tried roughing up the surface with steel wool but that was no help with the shine. Now I'm wondering if I can safely remove the polycrylic and start over.

The shelf is currently installed I could remove it if need be. Any advice on fixing my mistake? I'd like to maybe go with a regular poly or shellac finish...

[Andy Giddings]

Aside from sanding it all off and starting again with a different finish type, I don't see another way of fixing it. Is the shelf rustic in terms of a rough texture and open grain? If that's the case, sanding would obviously ruin that look

[Conrad Fiore]

What was the gloss factor of the Polycrylic that you used. It is available in MATTE and I would suggest that you make a sample on some wood scrap that will approximate your mantle. Spray the same number of coats to make it look plastic, then spray a coat of the matte over that to see if it brings the gloss down to your liking. This is the simplest way out if it works.

The mantle can be stripped with MEK stripper, but it would be best to remove it from the wall.

Shellac is naturally glossy. Regular poly is glossy if you buy it in that gloss factor.

I take it that the mantle was much smoother than the siding.

[Doug W Swanson]

Thanks for the replies. I used the flattest sheen I could find (satin). Here are some pictures so you get an idea of what I'm up against.

shelf1.jpgshelfb.jpg

The wood is full of character including the original saw blade marks and I would like to keep as much of that character as possible.

[Andy Giddings]

Doug, as sanding would spoil the character the only other option I can think of that would preserve the features you want is some sort of chemical stripper as suggested by Conrad. In terms of an alternate finish once the poly is off, you may want to think about an oil finish that will penetrate without leaving a film like appearance

[Doug W Swanson]

Doug, as sanding would spoil the character the only other option I can think of that would preserve the features you want is some sort of chemical stripper as suggested by Conrad. In terms of an alternate finish once the poly is off, you may want to think about an oil finish that will penetrate without leaving a film like appearance

That is what I'm thinking. I will definitely do some experimenting before I tackle the shelf....

[John TenEyck]

Doug, get some Kleanstrip Premium stripper from HD, etc. It will take off Polycrylic quickly and completely, though you will have to work it into the grain with a brush. Best to remove the shelf because the stripper will remove anything it touches. Because of the rough nature of your shelf you won't be able to scrap it off. I would do it outside and just hose it off when the stripper has pulled up the finish, using a coarse plastic brush to help get it out of the grain. Don't use a wire brush as it will damage the wood. You may have to repeat the process if there is any finish on/in the wood, but you will be able to get it off. Do not sand. If the wood is rough after the finish is off and it's really dry again, then try a synthetic pad to get rid of the roughness. But do a test on scrap first and make sure the water wash doesn't make the wood really rough after it dries. If it does, then don't use water to remove the stripper, use mineral spirits or Naptha.

Once the finish is off - and after you have made samples on scrap - I would use something like Arm-R-Seal wiping varnish or even just Seal-A-Cell. One or two coats should be enough to highlight the grain w/o giving any hint of a film or plastic look. Experiment on scrap until you are satisfied. Arm-R-Seal satin will be pretty flat, as is Seal-A-Cell.

John

[Doug W Swanson]

Thanks for the advice, John. I have already made a couple of test pieces to try before I work on the shelf.

I'm not too worried about roughing up the wood as it has sat outside for 50 years or more. When I got it, the wood has some lichen and moss on it so I just lightly power washed it while trying the keep the original saw marks and character it developed over the years.

And i will be sure to try a couple of different finishes before I finish the shelf again. The shelf is going to be one of the highlights in our basement family room I'm working on. The two long walls are just painted Sheetrock while one end wall is covered in reclaimed barn wood (it actually came from a chicken coop). The other end wall is covered in reclaimed metal from an old farm building. The wainscoting is a galvanized metal in a brick pattern while the top of the wall is corrugated metal roofing. Both metals have some rusty patina on them.

Can't wait to finish this project!