How to shoot a board?

[Brian Sommers]

problem solved: forget the shooting board.

I clamped up in a vise and left my #4 on the bench and grabbed my block plane (I think, its a very tiny one) and took it down to the line.

[Jim Koepke]

problem solved: forget the shooting board.

I clamped up in a vise and left my #4 on the bench and grabbed my block plane (I think, its a very tiny one) and took it down to the line.

In my opinion the problem isn't really solved. You have merely found a different way to square the end of a board. If you ever need to do this with a piece that is longer than a few feet you will be back to square one.

The advantage of a shooting board is the speed in which the work can be done. It also enables one to make miters and other angles with ease.

Almost any plane can be used on a shooting board. I have used a #60 type block plane on thin stock.

Because of an old shoulder injury my preferred plane for use on a shooting board is a low angle jack plane, LN #62 to be precise.

Here is my latest shooting board build:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...44777-Oh-Shoot!

It shows using wedges to shoot angles.

My technique is to first sharpen the blade and adjust the plane to cut as lightly as it can one some edge grain. A chamfer is cut on the edge of the work that will be against the fence to help reduce any blow out. Then the plane is set on the ramp and held it in place where it will meet the work. Then the piece being shot is brought up against the toe of the plane, blade out of engagement, and held against the fence. Then move the plane forward. There may be very little removed on the first few strokes. As the plane is being brought back the work is again moved against the toe of the plane and this is repeated. It may also be necessary to advance the blade a little. I can usually tell if the full length is being addressed by the sound of the blade cutting wood over the full width of the work.

Hope this helps,

jtk

[Luke Dupont]

problem solved: forget the shooting board.

I clamped up in a vise and left my #4 on the bench and grabbed my block plane (I think, its a very tiny one) and took it down to the line.

I would resolve the setup of your #4, then. You've confirmed that something is wrong with the plane as it is set up now.

Check for sharpness.

Check the chip-breaker (is it too close to the edge, perhaps? You can keep it very close, but leave at least a millimeter or two. Sometimes it can cause the plane not to cut well if it's right up on the edge).

Sharpness could be your problem. You need to sharpen much more often than you might think.

How about the iron itself? Is it all locked in there good? If something is wrong and the iron is able to move/isn't secure, it can refuse to cut or dig in.

Sole flatness may also be an issue, but I'd be kind of surprised if it were that out. I would check it with a straight edge, and if it looks reasonably flat, don't mess with it. You might do more harm than good if you don't have a good lapping surface, and it's usually not necessary unless it's visibly out when you check.

Your symptoms are consistent with a plane that just hasn't been setup right in one way or another. I remember having similar problems when I first picked up a block plane. Do some research and see if you can't figure out for yourself what is wrong; you'll need to learn to tune and setup your tools regardless of what you buy.

[Patrick Chase]

problem solved: forget the shooting board.

I clamped up in a vise and left my #4 on the bench and grabbed my block plane (I think, its a very tiny one) and took it down to the line.

I do this all the time, albeit with an edge-trimming plane instead of a block plane, so that I don't have to worry about tilt.

As other have said, this suggests that your #4 isn't set up very well. The block plane probably has a lower cutting angle (assuming it has a low-angle bed and ~25 deg edge) but even so that shouldn't make the degree of difference you described here.

[Tom M King]

Brian, If you have the time to wait, send me the iron and chipbreaker. I'll sharpen it, and send it right back to you. That way, you can experience first hand what really sharp is, and how much difference it makes. I have a very efficient sharpening setup, so it won't be taking but a few minutes of my time, if you're worried about that.

If you're interested, PM me, and I'll give you my mailing address.

[Trevor Goodwin]

Because bevel down planes don't have the optimal angle for end grain, are they more likely to go dull or chip when doing so (than BU planes)? My experience says yes but it might just be that I'm sharpening at to shallow a bevel angle.

[Jim Koepke]

Because bevel down planes don't have the optimal angle for end grain, are they more likely to go dull or chip when doing so (than BU planes)? My experience says yes but it might just be that I'm sharpening at to shallow a bevel angle.

More likely to chip than when doing edge grain or more likely to chip than bevel up?

If you are using BD at a 25º grind it is not likely going to chip any more than a BU plane ground at 25º.

The difference in angle of attack between BU and BD is only 8º unless one uses a skewed blade.

It also depends on the composition of the blade. My BU A1 blade tends to chip more than my old Stanley blades or Hock O1 blade.

Also this would likely depend on the woods one is working.

As with so many things:

YMMV!!!.jpg

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Because bevel down planes don't have the optimal angle for end grain, are they more likely to go dull or chip when doing so (than BU planes)? My experience says yes but it might just be that I'm sharpening at to shallow a bevel angle.

More likely to chip than when doing edge grain or more likely to chip than bevel up?

If you are using BD at a 25º grind it is not likely going to chip any more than a BU plane ground at 25º.

All things equal, a BD plane on a common angle bed (45 degrees) will create more stress on the bevel edge than a BU plane on a low angle bed (12 degrees). This stress creates more wear. Ergo, BU plane blades outlast BD plane blades. I did mention this in an earlier post.

Research: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...tingPlane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Trevor Goodwin]

Thanks Derek!

I've always had trouble end grain planing Tassie Oak with my shooting board and bench planes. Pine is fine though so I figure sharpness isn't the problem.

[Luke Dupont]

Thanks Derek!

I've always had trouble end grain planing Tassie Oak with my shooting board and bench planes. Pine is fine though so I figure sharpness isn't the problem.

I also have trouble shooting end grain at times, but besides keeping your iron really sharp, I've found two things help significantly, if you haven't tried them already:
1. Oil or wax the sole of your plane. This always makes things easier, of course, but you'd be surprised how much it helps on end-grain in particular.
2. Use a clamp or holdfast to fix your shooting board securely to your bench top. I find eliminating any small movement helps quite a bit.

[Jim Koepke]

I also have trouble shooting end grain at times, but besides keeping your iron really sharp, I've found two things help significantly, if you haven't tried them already:
1. Oil or wax the sole of your plane. This always makes things easier, of course, but you'd be surprised how much it helps on end-grain in particular.
2. Use a clamp or holdfast to fix your shooting board securely to your bench top. I find eliminating any small movement helps quite a bit.

Darn Luke, those are so engrained in my shooting that it's as if they don't happen. But of course they do.

It is one of the reasons my inexpensive vises with a tendency to rack will likely be used as the basis for my next bench. (if I ever get a round tuit!)

My shooting board is usually just set in the tail vise and the plane is rubbed with wax while it is being carried to the bench. Sometimes it is set in the face vise. Then it is sometimes held by the tail vise with two dogs on the bench and two in the vise chop.

When the obvious is an old habit, it may need pointing out to become clear.

Good one Luke.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

When I see the title to this string, I keep wanting to say "with a 22", but I know it would not be appreciated.

[Patrick Chase]

When I see the title to this string, I keep wanting to say "with a 22", but I know it would not be appreciated.

I already tried that.

Based on my dim memories as a Boy Scout in Indiana, a .22 isn't very good for chopping up boards. They don't have enough energy to do significant damage. Higher-power small caliber rounds like the .223 are even worse because they fly right through. Ditto for true high-power rounds like the .300 Win Mag. You really want something blunt, massive and relatively slow. In other words, a shotgun slug.