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Thread: Buffing questions

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    South Carolina
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    303
    Thanks for the pictures, Leo. I had thought about the cheap buffing pads, but wasn't sure and figured the price wasn't too bad to get a start with proven materials. When the time comes to get replacements, I'll probably give them a shot.

    I do hope you took the key out of the chuck on that first pic before turning it on

    Purely out of curiosity, does buffing without any compound (just bare fabric) do anything useful?

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Atikokan, Rainy River district, Ontario
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    3,540
    Sorry Aaron, I never tried that, but I would not expect anything from that.

    Oh and as the picture said, the buffer was parked there out of the way, so no chance turning it on with the chuck key in it, I just kept the key with the buffer that way.
    Last edited by Leo Van Der Loo; 07-22-2016 at 4:14 PM.
    Have fun and take care

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    South Carolina
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leo Van Der Loo View Post
    ...Oh and as the picture said, the buffer was parked there out of the way, so no chance turning it on with the chuck key in it, I just kept the key with the buffer that way.
    I figured as much... just wanted to rib ya. ;-)

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Atikokan, Rainy River district, Ontario
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Craven View Post
    I figured as much... just wanted to rib ya. ;-)
    I figured that
    Have fun and take care

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Midwest
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    2,043
    I run three 8" buffing wheels on a 36" long piece of all-thread (with the area between the buffing wheels covered by loose fitting pvc pipe to prevent the all-thread from ever coming into contact with the bowl rims, etc). One end of the all-thread is turned down to fit in my chuck jaws and one end is turned down to fit my live center. I can pop it in and out very quickly.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Atikokan, Rainy River district, Ontario
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dick Strauss View Post
    I run three 8" buffing wheels on a 36" long piece of all-thread (with the area between the buffing wheels covered by loose fitting pvc pipe to prevent the all-thread from ever coming into contact with the bowl rims, etc). One end of the all-thread is turned down to fit in my chuck jaws and one end is turned down to fit my live center. I can pop it in and out very quickly.
    How do you buff the inside of a 4 or 5 inch deep bowl, as the OP was asking about doing that ??
    Have fun and take care

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    lufkin tx
    Posts
    2,054
    Try buying compounds and waxes at auto paint supply stores. Best quality, variety and good advice--beats auto zone ect.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    lufkin tx
    Posts
    2,054
    I always buy my compounds and waxes ect at Auto paint supply stores. Super quality(imagine screwing up a paint job on a Porshe) good variety and advice. Liquid compounds are almost burn proof unlike solid wax/compounds. Also they do not build up and gum up like the solids do. They do not carry oils or poly's however.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    TX, NM or on the road
    Posts
    845
    I take bolts and cut the heads off and hold the buffing wheel with 2 nuts and 2 washers. I use my collet chuck on the lathe told hold the bolt end of the wheel. I can also use a drill chuck with a drawbar or held in place with a live center. They easily store in ziplock bags along with the various compounds that I use.


    Buffing Wheels.jpg

    I buy 90% of my buffing supplies from Caswel Plating. I think they have the best selection of any place to get quality wheels and compounds.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Manistique, Michigan
    Posts
    1,368
    I use renaissance wax instead of carnauba. If you do wax, you might want to try it. I like the finish better than carnauba.
    Thank you,

    Rich Aldrich

    65 miles SE of Steve Schlumpf.

    "To a pessimist, the glass is half empty; to an optimist, the glass is half full; to an engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be." Unknown author



  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Aldrich View Post
    I use renaissance wax instead of carnauba. If you do wax, you might want to try it. I like the finish better than carnauba.
    Same. I use Tripoli and RenWax only.

  12. #27
    Reading most of the posts in this thread, it's not entirely clear to me if you folks are buffing raw wood. Or, is this a process to apply wax finishes only? Or, is this to "shine" up finishes like lacquers, etc.?

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Rasmussen View Post
    Reading most of the posts in this thread, it's not entirely clear to me if you folks are buffing raw wood. Or, is this a process to apply wax finishes only? Or, is this to "shine" up finishes like lacquers, etc.?
    I never buff raw wood, personally.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    South Carolina
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    303
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Rasmussen View Post
    Reading most of the posts in this thread, it's not entirely clear to me if you folks are buffing raw wood. Or, is this a process to apply wax finishes only? Or, is this to "shine" up finishes like lacquers, etc.?
    I've never buffed any wood!

    That said, my intention is to use this primarily on cured oil finishes and maybe some film finishes (such as poly). I am curious what the result might be on bare wood, though.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Forestville, CA
    Posts
    107
    Oily woods can be buffed to a glossy shine bare, even without wax. I have never tried it on dry open pored woods.

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