Suggestions for attaching drawer fronts?

[glenn bradley]

I use two of the screws Tom has shown. These have 7/16" washer heads. A 1/4" to 5/16" hole will give you lots of wiggle room for fine tuning the clearance. I have 3/4" hardwood fronts that are held with these that have seen years of service without issue. If the pulls allow penetration between box and front, all the better for fixing the position once you're happy with it.

[Andy Giddings]

I use a combo of Walter's method + double sided tape. With the Blum undermount, as long as you have the adjustable mounts, you should have more than enough available for alignment without using special screws/oversize holes

[John C Bush]

I used a hot glue gun to position the drawer fronts--didn't have double sided tape on hand--then secured with screws.

[Ellen Benkin]

A quick update. Double sided tape didn't work to hold the fronts to the boxes and then I remembered my 23 gauge pinner. I could get to the inside of the drawer when it was closed well enough to put a pin in each corner to hold the front to the box. They held just enough for me to open the drawer and quickly clamp them. Then I could use the screws to ''permanently'' attach the front to the drawer.

[Lee Schierer]

Just another way. Drill the drawer box for pilot holes for the screws. Run the screws in so the point just protrudes through the drawer. Push the drawer all the way in and shim your drawer front to your liking. With your fist rap the drawer front into the drawer box. The screw points will mark where to drill pilot holes in the back of your drawer front. Remove the screws and enlarge the holes in the drawer box to clearance holes for your screw size. Install your screws and your done.

This is what I do except I put several pounds of weight in the drawer to take the settling into account.

[Rick Potter]

Pretty much like above posts, except I use pennies to space the drawer fronts.

[Justin Ludwig]

I set all my drawer faces upside down in a jig that spaces the offset according to application (inset or overlay). The drawer is removed from cabinet and placed on the drawer face. Screw it down with appropriate amount of screws and throw it back in the cabinet.

I have multiple jigs for the different styles of cabinets I build, but intend to build an adjustable jig with T-tracks. I can have an peon set 100 drawer faces in a few hours with these jigs.

If I go to the shop today I'll take some pics of one of them.

[Ellen Benkin]

Please post a picture of the jig. It sounds intriguing.

[Marshall Mosby]

Dovetail joints would be helpful here. Using those you won't need screws/nails and they'll look good as well. Try making those in my opinion.

[Justin Ludwig]

IMG_5251.jpg IMG_5252.jpg IMG_5253.jpg IMG_5254.jpg IMG_5255.jpg IMG_5256.jpg IMG_5257.jpg

[Ellen Benkin]

Thanks Justin. I'm going to print these and save them for my next set of drawers.