I'm engraving acrylic and I'm getting banding will increasing my scan gap/dpi reduce the banding?
Well I tried going form 390 to 600 didn't work .
I'm engraving acrylic and I'm getting banding will increasing my scan gap/dpi reduce the banding?
Well I tried going form 390 to 600 didn't work .
Last edited by Bert Kemp; 07-23-2016 at 5:01 PM.
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Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
Lasercut 5.3
CorelDraw X5
10" Miter Saw with slide
10" Table Saw
8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander
Different types of acrylic can be tricky.
If you're rastering, try doing it ever so slightly out of focus at a tab bit more power. This worked wonders for me last time I did a logo on acrylic.
60W, Boss Laser 1630
75W, Epilog Legend 24EX
Jet Left Tilting table saw and Jet 18" Band saw
Adobe Creative suite and Laserworks 8
Banding, nearly all machines do it...
Bert, do you have "X-swing / X-Uniliateralism " in the engraving settings? Or whatever they may be called in your software?
X-swing means the laser engraves in both directions, left to right and right to left,
X-unilateralism means the laser only fires left-to-right, but NOT right to left (or vice versa is possible I suppose)
Anyway, it takes twice as long to engrave this way, but it may eliminate the banding. I believe that's its purpose... If it does, twice as long and decent results beats crappy results in half the time!
========================================
ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
FOUR - CO2 lasers
THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
ONE - vinyl cutter
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If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
Lasercut 5.3
CorelDraw X5
10" Miter Saw with slide
10" Table Saw
8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander
If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
Lasercut 5.3
CorelDraw X5
10" Miter Saw with slide
10" Table Saw
8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander
Yea you do Bert, it's in the engraving dialog box, Unidirectional - Bi-Directional
You did what !
settings.jpgThis is what I have and the Bi dir box is always checked but it only engraves on the x axis. Is there another box some place?
If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
Lasercut 5.3
CorelDraw X5
10" Miter Saw with slide
10" Table Saw
8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander
60W, Boss Laser 1630
75W, Epilog Legend 24EX
Jet Left Tilting table saw and Jet 18" Band saw
Adobe Creative suite and Laserworks 8
If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
Lasercut 5.3
CorelDraw X5
10" Miter Saw with slide
10" Table Saw
8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander
Bert, UNcheck the bi-dir box-- it will still run on the X axis, but the laser should only fire in one direction--
here's mine with the drop down menu opened, X-swing is my default. It will raster on the Y axis too, but it's limited to 300mm/sec...
xswing.jpg
========================================
ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
FOUR - CO2 lasers
THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
ONE - vinyl cutter
CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle
You might have uni-directional or bi-directional, try looking for that.
If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
Lasercut 5.3
CorelDraw X5
10" Miter Saw with slide
10" Table Saw
8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander
Banding often arises cos the laser puts a lot of heat into the materials and they expand and contract
Try a teeny bit out of focus and reduce your scan gap ..ie a little more gap tween y axis scan lines
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1600mm hot and cold laminator , 3x Dopag resin dispensers , sandblasting setup, acid etcher
Bert-
I don't see a Y engraving option in your software. Just the "bi-dir" which is for the X.
Banding is the Achilles heel of most lasers. The one laser I had that didn't do it was the old ULS. Under high magnification the finished burn path always resembled a diamond-knurl pattern. That machine also was the best machine I've owned for reproducing photos. I got stunning halftone results in leather with that machine, which I've never been able to re-create with any of my other machines. Whoever is responsible for programming the way that machined fired the laser has my utmost respect.
My LS900, for all it's positives, it's HORRIBLE for banding. Much of the reason for its banding is the laser beam 'wobbles'. According to Gravo this is on purpose, as it's supposed to aid with dithering when engraving photos. Can't argue that it's BS because for one, the wobble perfectly repeats over itself on subsequent passes, eliminating mechanical issues as the reason for the wobble. And it DOES do photos quite well, and it's phenomenal at glass engraving when running dithered gray in photo mode. Running glass on my other machines renders ridiculously bad results no matter what I've tried.
This is some plex I did awhile back on my LS900, different speeds, 50 lines per inch I believe. Note that this plate was engraved twice- every line perfectly repeated.
Also not the 3rd and 4th lines were done at the same relatively slow speed, the difference being line 3 was rastered, line 4 was vectored.
The vector is dead straight, which also eliminates mechanical issues causing the wobble...
band2.jpg
But the problem with the wobble in general engraving is that the beam paths overlap more in some areas than in others, and these under/overlaps are always in the same vertical plane. The heat soak Rodne mentions comes into play, and also simple light reflections. The results are very visible vertical bands. This plate, the bottom lines were done at 75 lines, the top at 500. The top and second line were done at the same speed, the third line was done a bit slower. The top line is showing bad banding-in the second line you can see the bands corresponding to LESS overlapped areas...
banding1.jpg
Not sure about how other machines 'track', and I've never tested any of my other machines. I really should
Horizontal banding, far as I can tell, is more of a substrate issue, where certain areas of the material itself are more sensitive to heat. Similar results but more because of how the material reacts to the laser rather than the path of the laser...
Now, THAT all said, Bert, this is why you should try running the machine with the bi-dir OFF, the laser firing in only one direction may help with heat soak AND with how light reflects off the engraving. If you read my watch-back thread, you noted in the sample pics the very bad banding the fiber did, and it was strictly caused by the direction the laser was moving, the engraving moving down catches the light totally different than the engraving that moved up...
========================================
ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
FOUR - CO2 lasers
THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
ONE - vinyl cutter
CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle