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Thread: acrylic banding

  1. #1

    acrylic banding

    I'm engraving acrylic and I'm getting banding will increasing my scan gap/dpi reduce the banding?
    Well I tried going form 390 to 600 didn't work .
    Last edited by Bert Kemp; 07-23-2016 at 5:01 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Different types of acrylic can be tricky.

    If you're rastering, try doing it ever so slightly out of focus at a tab bit more power. This worked wonders for me last time I did a logo on acrylic.
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  3. #3
    Banding, nearly all machines do it...

    Bert, do you have "X-swing / X-Uniliateralism " in the engraving settings? Or whatever they may be called in your software?

    X-swing means the laser engraves in both directions, left to right and right to left,
    X-unilateralism means the laser only fires left-to-right, but NOT right to left (or vice versa is possible I suppose)

    Anyway, it takes twice as long to engrave this way, but it may eliminate the banding. I believe that's its purpose... If it does, twice as long and decent results beats crappy results in half the time!
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  4. #4
    I don't think I have that on my machine darn


    Quote Originally Posted by Kev Williams View Post
    Banding, nearly all machines do it...

    Bert, do you have "X-swing / X-Uniliateralism " in the engraving settings? Or whatever they may be called in your software?

    X-swing means the laser engraves in both directions, left to right and right to left,
    X-unilateralism means the laser only fires left-to-right, but NOT right to left (or vice versa is possible I suppose)

    Anyway, it takes twice as long to engrave this way, but it may eliminate the banding. I believe that's its purpose... If it does, twice as long and decent results beats crappy results in half the time!
    If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
    Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
    Lasercut 5.3
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    8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
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  5. #5
    It cast , I lowered my pwr from 70 to 40 increased speed from 300 to 325 and scan gap of .065 and that helped. Not gone but less noticeable. If I lower power more I loose detail in raster.

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Downing View Post
    Different types of acrylic can be tricky.

    If you're rastering, try doing it ever so slightly out of focus at a tab bit more power. This worked wonders for me last time I did a logo on acrylic.
    If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
    Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
    Lasercut 5.3
    CorelDraw X5

    10" Miter Saw with slide
    10" Table Saw
    8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
    Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander


  6. #6
    Yea you do Bert, it's in the engraving dialog box, Unidirectional - Bi-Directional
    You did what !

  7. #7
    settings.jpgThis is what I have and the Bi dir box is always checked but it only engraves on the x axis. Is there another box some place?
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert Kemp View Post
    It cast , I lowered my pwr from 70 to 40 increased speed from 300 to 325 and scan gap of .065 and that helped. Not gone but less noticeable. If I lower power more I loose detail in raster.
    Did you try doing is slightly out of focus? For me, it helps get a little melt in the raster that prevents the noticeable banding. You do have to play with it some though.
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  9. #9
    Yes I did take it out about an 1/8" it helps a little also.


    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Downing View Post
    Did you try doing is slightly out of focus? For me, it helps get a little melt in the raster that prevents the noticeable banding. You do have to play with it some though.
    If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
    Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
    Lasercut 5.3
    CorelDraw X5

    10" Miter Saw with slide
    10" Table Saw
    8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
    Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander


  10. #10
    Bert, UNcheck the bi-dir box-- it will still run on the X axis, but the laser should only fire in one direction--

    here's mine with the drop down menu opened, X-swing is my default. It will raster on the Y axis too, but it's limited to 300mm/sec...

    xswing.jpg
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  11. #11
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    You might have uni-directional or bi-directional, try looking for that.

  12. #12
    Kev you have screen shots of everything I have do you see were I might have x and Y engraving ?


    Quote Originally Posted by Kev Williams View Post
    Bert, UNcheck the bi-dir box-- it will still run on the X axis, but the laser should only fire in one direction--

    here's mine with the drop down menu opened, X-swing is my default. It will raster on the Y axis too, but it's limited to 300mm/sec...

    xswing.jpg
    If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
    Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
    Lasercut 5.3
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    10" Table Saw
    8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
    Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander


  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert Kemp View Post
    settings.jpgThis is what I have and the Bi dir box is always checked but it only engraves on the x axis. Is there another box some place?

    Your Bi-dir is checked uncheck it

  14. #14
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    Banding often arises cos the laser puts a lot of heat into the materials and they expand and contract
    Try a teeny bit out of focus and reduce your scan gap ..ie a little more gap tween y axis scan lines
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  15. #15
    Bert-
    I don't see a Y engraving option in your software. Just the "bi-dir" which is for the X.

    Banding is the Achilles heel of most lasers. The one laser I had that didn't do it was the old ULS. Under high magnification the finished burn path always resembled a diamond-knurl pattern. That machine also was the best machine I've owned for reproducing photos. I got stunning halftone results in leather with that machine, which I've never been able to re-create with any of my other machines. Whoever is responsible for programming the way that machined fired the laser has my utmost respect.

    My LS900, for all it's positives, it's HORRIBLE for banding. Much of the reason for its banding is the laser beam 'wobbles'. According to Gravo this is on purpose, as it's supposed to aid with dithering when engraving photos. Can't argue that it's BS because for one, the wobble perfectly repeats over itself on subsequent passes, eliminating mechanical issues as the reason for the wobble. And it DOES do photos quite well, and it's phenomenal at glass engraving when running dithered gray in photo mode. Running glass on my other machines renders ridiculously bad results no matter what I've tried.
    This is some plex I did awhile back on my LS900, different speeds, 50 lines per inch I believe. Note that this plate was engraved twice- every line perfectly repeated.
    Also not the 3rd and 4th lines were done at the same relatively slow speed, the difference being line 3 was rastered, line 4 was vectored.
    The vector is dead straight, which also eliminates mechanical issues causing the wobble...

    band2.jpg

    But the problem with the wobble in general engraving is that the beam paths overlap more in some areas than in others, and these under/overlaps are always in the same vertical plane. The heat soak Rodne mentions comes into play, and also simple light reflections. The results are very visible vertical bands. This plate, the bottom lines were done at 75 lines, the top at 500. The top and second line were done at the same speed, the third line was done a bit slower. The top line is showing bad banding-in the second line you can see the bands corresponding to LESS overlapped areas...

    banding1.jpg

    Not sure about how other machines 'track', and I've never tested any of my other machines. I really should


    Horizontal banding, far as I can tell, is more of a substrate issue, where certain areas of the material itself are more sensitive to heat. Similar results but more because of how the material reacts to the laser rather than the path of the laser...

    Now, THAT all said, Bert, this is why you should try running the machine with the bi-dir OFF, the laser firing in only one direction may help with heat soak AND with how light reflects off the engraving. If you read my watch-back thread, you noted in the sample pics the very bad banding the fiber did, and it was strictly caused by the direction the laser was moving, the engraving moving down catches the light totally different than the engraving that moved up...
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    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


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