Niles Bottle Stoppers

[Dok Yager]

Anyone use Ruth`s stoppers and inserts? I seem to be having a real problem with these "new" inserts getting them to go in straight! I have done hundreds of stoppers using her "old" style inserts that worked Great. these new ones have me befuddled to say the least. I am currently using a 19/64" drill bit. HELP.

[Alan Trout]

Did you buy them directly from Ruth? One of her old suppliers was selling stoppers of inferior quality inferring that they were the same as hers. If you are still having problems just give her a call. She is the Sweetest lady in the world and if there is something wrong she will take care of you.

[Doug Ladendorf]

I second Alan's suggestion to call her. I'm sure she would be happy to discuss the issue.

Doug

[Rich Aldrich]

I tried them a few years ago and that is all I buy now. My favorite is the 301, but I also like the new one that stands on its own. I buy them directly off her website now, but it is good to talk to her. She knows her product and knows a lot about making them. I like the fact that you cant see the metal between the bottle and the stopper. Also, stainless steel is corrosion resistant so you dont have to worry about the chrome coating coming off the base metal.

[Dok Yager]

Yes guy`s I Love Ruths stoppers! My question is about the inserts for the stoppers. She changed to a different insert that is larger and tapered and I find them hard to get straight and started. Any help on this?

[John King]

Yes guy`s I Love Ruths stoppers! My question is about the inserts for the stoppers. She changed to a different insert that is larger and tapered and I find them hard to get straight and started. Any help on this?

Inserts? Don't have a clue what you are talking about. Tell me more. Post picture. - John

[Dok Yager]

Threaded inserts to install the stoppers into the wood so they stay put.

3/8" - 16 tpi threaded insert

[John Altberg]

I didn't realize that Ruth was selling those with her stoppers, now. Have not used hers, but have used something similar on some pizza cutters that I made for Christmas and they were a bugger to figure out. The suggested drill size was not correct and I discovered that what worked for size was actually variable depending on the hardness of the wood being used. I can only suggest that you experiment on some scrap wood until you get the hang of it or dispense with the inserts and just use epoxy.

[Doug Ladendorf]

I don't see those on her site. Is this where you got them? http://nilesbottlestoppers.com/

I know there have been some copy cats recently that made things confusing for buyers.

[Dok Yager]

Yes Doug. I have had Ruth`s site earmarked for years now. I Only buy from her as she has the best product IMHO.

[James Combs]

I have made a few of Ruth's stoppers but I have never used inserts in them. I have always taped the wood(3/8" if memory serves). If I am using softer woods I will flood the wooden threads with CA then re-tap to remove any excess CA then screw the SS stopper directly into the wood, never had a problem. As small as stoppers are in a lot of cases I can see the inserts splitting the wood during installation. UMMV though.

Are you using a standard bottle stopper mandrel? If you are it has the same thread as the stopper.??

[Doug Ladendorf]

Sorry Doc, of course. I had not seen those before among her products but found them on this page: http://nilesbottlestoppers.com/Woodturning.html

I have used the inserts on other things and one method is to put them on a bolt with a nut tightened on the insert to help drive it in. The additional length of the bolt helps with alignment and a wrench can be used to drive on the insert rather than a screwdriver jumping out all the time.

[Geoff Whaling]

Dok, I don't use Ruth Niles bottle stoppers but I have used those inserts, the flanged style inserts and "leg screws" for making turnings that can be disassembled easily for transport etc. Our Australian suppliers sell metric sizes though, in zinc plated & 304 stainless. I have a couple of versions of insert, one style as per the photo above and another that has a shallow hex socket above the inserts internal thread. I use a T-bar driver to install the insert. For the hex socket an appropriate sized T-bar allen key works fine, & for the threaded inserts I purchased a specific matching T-bar driver which has a short section of thread and a small flange on the end of the round shaft.

For small items like bottle stoppers the pilot hole sizing is pretty critical to prevent splitting the blank as it is turned to profile. I find on the harder woods like Kwila that it is better to tap the external thread as well and / or use a slightly oversize hole, whatever works.

For Ruth's stoppers shouldn't you be using a 1/2" pilot hole for her inserts? 19/64" would be a bit tight.

"Drill a 1/2" hole in the stopper blank then thread the insert into the wood. Simply thread the mandrel in, turn your design the(n) thread the stainless steel stopper into your turning."

ANZOR threaded insert dimensions.jpg

ps one trick I used for the smaller sized inserts untill I purchased the specific t-bar driver was to cut the head off an appropriate bolt and then file the Vee and flat to match my Stanley Yankee (101?) screw driver bits. Somewhat like Doug mentions above.

If you want to go hi-tec have a look at these sites http://www.ezlok.com/ http://www.crosstools.com.au/threade...tomolding.html

[John King]

Threaded inserts to install the stoppers into the wood so they stay put.

3/8" - 16 tpi threaded insert

Okay. Got it. Why use inserts? Drill the stopper blank, thread (3/8" x 16), harden threads with thin CA, mount stopper blank on mandrel, turn and finish. Remove finished stopper from mandrel and mount on bottle stopper of choice. I see no need for insert. Extra expense. 1/2" hole for insert limits stopper design options (large diameter hole limits depth of cut on bottle stopper). What am I missing? - John

PS - Bottle stoppers are supposed to fun. They provide an inexpensive way to practice tool control. Don't complicate the process with with an unnecessary, bulky insert. - J

[James Combs]

Okay. Got it. Why use inserts? Drill the stopper blank, thread (3/8" x 16), harden threads with thin CA, mount stopper blank on mandrel, turn and finish. Remove finished stopper from mandrel and mount on bottle stopper of choice. I see no need for insert. Extra expense. 1/2" hole for insert limits stopper design options (large diameter hole limits depth of cut on bottle stopper). What am I missing? - John

PS - Bottle stoppers are supposed to fun. They provide an inexpensive way to practice tool control. Don't complicate the process with with an unnecessary, bulky insert. - J

+1 for John's comments. I use same process, never had a problem as I mentioned in an earlier post.