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Thread: Router table top - melamine?

  1. #16
    Thanks for all the great responses. I've made the base and cut all the carcass pieces to size. Next up is cutting all the dados and rabbets.

    Robert, yes 2'x4' is rather large compared to most router tables. I plan on using it as an assembly table (drop a piece of mdf on top for protection) as well as a support extension for a miter saw station that I'll build someday.

    Cheers.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Wakefield, MA
    Posts
    509
    I made my router table by laminating several layers of plywood together, quarter-inch and three-quarter-inch, just stuff I had lying around. I used contact cement, and it has lasted ten years. I topped it with a sheet of formica, also attached with contact cement. The whole thing is only about an inch and a half thick and 30 inches x 27 inches. Sagging problems were easily avoided by running several braces made of 2-inch-wide strips of plywood glued to the underside of the top and dadoed to the frame of the table. I think I used two braces, but I haven't looked under there in a long time.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Conway View Post
    Robert, yes 2'x4' is rather large compared to most router tables. I plan on using it as an assembly table (drop a piece of mdf on top for protection) as well as a support extension for a miter saw station that I'll build someday.

    Cheers.
    Good idea!

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Conway View Post
    I should have said this in my original post...I'm planning on using a double layer of 3/4" MDF edged in solid wood with an aluminum miter track. The top will be about 2'x4' so I'll be putting support below...even thinking of adding 2-3 steel L supports.

    Thanks.
    If you don't mind me asking, what router insert are you going to use with that table? Aluminum,thick phenolic ? I'm planning on building a router table myself and thinking of using a Kreg insert but could use another popular brand.

  5. #20
    Hi Ken, I went with the Incra router lift. I kept going back and forth between Incra, Jessem and Woodpeckers and really couldn't find anything negative on any of them.

    Once I get a little further along, or almost done, I'll post some pics of the project.

  6. #21
    Incra lift gets very positive reviews,great choice.
    Thanks Aaron.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Exeter, CA
    Posts
    693
    I made mine of 3/4" old leftover (from a counter top) formica mdf. Its in my TS extension table. Routed in an insert of phoenlic base and use a large 3.x hp Porter Cable router. No doubled up mdf, nor extra supports other than the TS extension rails. Been using it that way about 20 years, still dead flat. I think formica was more durable back then (maybe just thicker). Anyway, totally happy. Randy

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,850
    In the past, before I acquired my cast iron router station top, I typically used a double layer of 3/4" MDF and then plastic laminate for the work surface. The melamine coated particle board is certainly an option.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
    Posts
    6,009
    Id use laminate over two layers MDF with a 1" hardwood edge.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  10. #25
    I used oak for my last router table top. Some lumber that had spent enough time in the shop so it would not warp, and made the top double thickness, about 1 1/2". Made plastic plates from 1/2" material, so can change routers without changing the base. Finished the top so every surface is finished, and it has stayed flat. Finish might be worn, but is easily coated again.

  11. #26
    I used a baltic birch top laminated with formica. It has had heavy use for about 12 years and still looks nice.

    Robert

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