Ezcad 2.5.3

[Kev Williams]

160mm is the approximate size of the working area, roughly 6". My lens is a 150mm, and my program, pre-loaded, shows my working area as 150.11mm, or 5.9"...

I just measured the in-focus distance from the table to the lens FRAME (not the lens surface, which recessed a bit), it's 9.9", or 251.5mm. Marked on the lens frame is F=210mm, which doesn't correspond to the working area OR the focus distance, I'm assuming is a light-transmission figure. How to know it's a 150mm lens is anyones guess? (It's an F-theta FWIW)

If you got a mark with the lens 160mm (a little more than 6-1/4") away from the part you marked, then you likely have a 100mm (or so) lens, which is roughly a 4" x 4" work area...

If I went from the 251mm focus distance I'm at to even the 210 it says on the lens, it wouldn't mark a thing...

As for glasses-- I got these from ebay, I can attest these work and the $69 price isn't bad. They're made in China but ship from the US so they'll arrive pretty quick. These are ABSORPTION style lenses, not REFLECTIVE style. From (what little) research I've done, the absorption style are the better choice. And the reason I can attest they work is I melted one lens firing the laser at it! The other side is unscathed...

laserglasses.jpg

--next time I'll aim a little more toward the edge --but I know without a shadow of a doubt they'll protect my eyes! And actually, when wearing them my right eye is to the left of the melt so I really don't notice it... anyway, ebay link:

ebaydotcom/itm/182080260611?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"]http://www.ebay.com/itm/182080260611?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

That said, I bought 2 more pair of different glasses, I haven't tried melting them yet but they're supposed to be absorption style. Difference with them was cheaper- direct from China- but what I don't like is the lenses are BLUE - this is all fine, but these lenses totally block red-- which means the red LEDs on the machine are totally invisible! So you can't wear them if you're using the LED's.. Also, they're VERY dark compared to the green lenses. So the blue ones are now my 'customer' glasses

[Gary Hair]

I think you'll find after a short while you will wear your glasses very infrequently. I have worn mine probably one time in the last month and that was to ensure a long running job was running correctly. Most of the time I just put up a shield (aka my hand) and block the possible beam path to my eyes. I wear corrective glasses and the fiber glasses don't fit well over them and I can't really see without the corrective glasses so I use my hand... I'm just glad I didn't spend hundreds on a shield size piece, it would have been a total waste of money. If you feel the need to watch, then please wear your glasses, otherwise you can likely do without.

160mm is the approximate size of the working area, roughly 6". My lens is a 150mm, and my program, pre-loaded, shows my working area as 150.11mm, or 5.9"...

I just measured the in-focus distance from the table to the lens FRAME (not the lens surface, which recessed a bit), it's 9.9", or 251.5mm. Marked on the lens frame is F=210mm, which doesn't correspond to the working area OR the focus distance, I'm assuming is a light-transmission figure. How to know it's a 150mm lens is anyones guess? (It's an F-theta FWIW)

If you got a mark with the lens 160mm (a little more than 6-1/4") away from the part you marked, then you likely have a 100mm (or so) lens, which is roughly a 4" x 4" work area...

If I went from the 251mm focus distance I'm at to even the 210 it says on the lens, it wouldn't mark a thing...

As for glasses-- I got these from ebay, I can attest these work and the $69 price isn't bad. They're made in China but ship from the US so they'll arrive pretty quick. These are ABSORPTION style lenses, not REFLECTIVE style. From (what little) research I've done, the absorption style are the better choice. And the reason I can attest they work is I melted one lens firing the laser at it! The other side is unscathed...

laserglasses.jpg

--next time I'll aim a little more toward the edge --but I know without a shadow of a doubt they'll protect my eyes! And actually, when wearing them my right eye is to the left of the melt so I really don't notice it... anyway, ebay link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182080260611?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

That said, I bought 2 more pair of different glasses, I haven't tried melting them yet but they're supposed to be absorption style. Difference with them was cheaper- direct from China- but what I don't like is the lenses are BLUE - this is all fine, but these lenses totally block red-- which means the red LEDs on the machine are totally invisible! So you can't wear them if you're using the LED's.. Also, they're VERY dark compared to the green lenses. So the blue ones are now my 'customer' glasses

[Scott Anders]

Marked on the lens frame is F=210mm, which doesn't correspond to the working area OR the focus distance

Hi Kev, it's the diameter of the "working circle" 150mm is the "working square". If you draw a 210mm circle in corel then add a square inside and bring the corners to the circumference you'll find it's around 148.5mm

[Kev Williams]

That makes sense, didn't think about that--

SO THEN- since the extreme corners of a 150mm square are accessible to the laser, is everything within a full 210mm circle accessible? That's 8.227 inches, and THAT would be great because I have about 600 7.9" diameter aluminum pulleys coming soon for lasering...

Makes sense that it should, but how do I convince the software that it's okay?

[Gary Hair]

That makes sense, didn't think about that--

SO THEN- since the extreme corners of a 150mm square are accessible to the laser, is everything within a full 210mm circle accessible? That's 8.227 inches, and THAT would be great because I have about 600 7.9" diameter aluminum pulleys coming soon for lasering...

Makes sense that it should, but how do I convince the software that it's okay?

The software will do whatever you tell it to do... If it balks at anything outside the limits of the workspace, change the workspace.

[Scott Anders]

While we're on the subject of ezcad and instead of starting a new thread, is it possible to align the red pointer (mark area) through the software? mine needs to move -2mm in the y axis.

Cancel that, I just found it in the others tab in parameters yay!

[Julian Ashcroft]

Spent a bit of time focusing the laser last night, I think I'm just about there and the laser marks a very sharp box cutting with a good bit of noise and a bright light at 165mm from the bottom of the lens surround to the top of the work piece. The marked box looks pretty square, but might do some minor adjustments in parameters to get it spot on. Running a fingernail over the box (on galvanised steel) you can really feel the cut in the metal. Also managed to do a nice hatched box which was very dark.

Ordered some safety glasses, there are so many out there. Got a couple of pairs which are marked on the lenses that they are suitable for a 1060nm laser. They were heavily discounted on Amazon. Don't know if a link is allowed but here it is: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Protection-...849471_TE_item

[Kev Williams]

I did some more watch backs the other day, reproduced some very small text nicely!
But I'm noticing 'overburn' at the corners where the laser changes direction.
I've been reading up on the 'start/laser off/end/polygon TC(US) settings, and will
be trying out some new settings when I find some time...

However, no mention of the "spot diameter" button in the manual (that I've found yet),
next to the yellow arrow. The box that opened up shows a display of circles and settings,
and the difference in spacing of the circles when different settings are chosen...
spotdia.jpg

--my question, are these settings and the display simply for reference, or does changing the settings actually do anything?

[Gary Hair]

I assumed that this was just for visualizing what is happening, you know what happens when you assume... Maybe someone who knows will give us the real answer?

[matthew knott]

Careful with the 'you don't need glasses'advice guys , you wouldn't give the same kind of advise for condoms or seat belts and crash helmets. If it goes wrong (unlikely) Permanent eye damage is the result. I'm all for free choice and anyone wanting to roll the dice should go for it! A decent proper pair won't cost the earth, will have decent clear lenses that the red light works fine with. I sell lasers and glasses and use fibers daily , we buy from Noir in bulk , they even brand them for us. Good kit , could save your eyes, and much better to use daily as comfortable and clear (not dark green or red) lenses.

[Dave Sheldrake]

Agree with Matt, ocular damage from the 1,064 wavelength is a very different mechanism to damage from the 10,640 wavelength, CO2 eye damage if not extreme can be fixed, Fibre....can't

[matthew knott]

I assumed that this was just for visualizing what is happening, you know what happens when you assume... Maybe someone who knows will give us the real answer?

Yes , it just shows you a visual rep of what happens , low the frequency the lower the speed required to get overlapping pulses

[Rodne Gold]

What are the practical differences in capabilty between my 20w and a 50w source ...I might be going for a 50w fiber.
Im looking for depth of engraving for masters for casting and some thin metal cutting

[matthew knott]

We have 2 X 50 watts , love them , jobs that take 2 minutes can be cut to 40 seconds and with better results, expect a big premium as they cost more than double a 20 watt ! You can still do everything with a 20 but it's faster with a 50

[Julian Ashcroft]

Came across this settings guide which might prove useful: http://www.permanentmarking.com/wp-c...ual-REV214.pdf

I would like to engrave leather with the fiber laser, I currently do quite a bit of leather with one of my CO2 lasers, but if I can get it to work on the fiber laser, it should be a lot a faster. There are several youtube videos of leather being engraved with a fiber laser, so hopefully it will work for me too.