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Thread: Lets start a "Tip of the Day" thread...

  1. #1
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    Lets start a "Tip of the Day" thread...

    Time for a "Tip of the Day" thread....
    We all do things that make tasks we do easier or less complicated as a second nature. This is not a Engraving tip but a Corel tip that Engravers might find handy. I use this tip often as I make Sublimated clip boards for Firemen called Accountability Boards. I often need to space blocks or lines within a given area. Tried the math method and it works but I have been using this easier way for a long time and wanted to share it.


    So the task is to divide a space in Corel into 4 equal areas.
    I draw a rectangle about 1/4 the size of the space.
    I copy and paste the first making 3 more copies.
    I stack them on top of each other slightly offset. (yellow)
    I select all and move the group over to the space placing the bottom of the group on a grid line.
    I grab the top of the group and stretch or shrink the group to match the top grid line. (green)
    I now have the spacing and add grid lines to each junction.
    Done... Delete the boxes...

    If you were doing a 40 plate of 40 names on a plaque this could be used to get your spacing quick.

    Could have put this in the Sign thread but I thought it applies to both and some read both threads.

    Lets hear alternates to this method as more than one way to easily skin a "task"...


    Please feel free to add your tips... Lets have some fun...


    AL
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by AL Ursich; 07-26-2016 at 4:47 PM.
    1 Laser, 4 CarveWrights, Star 912 Rotary, CLTT, Sublimation, FC7000 Vinyl, 911 Signs, Street Signs, Tourist Products and more.
    Home of the Fire Department "Epoxy Dome Accountability Tag and Accountability Boards".

  2. #2
    Cool. I like these threads - Learn a lot and save time. One of my favorite all time shop tips is making tons of clamps from PVC pipe. 3", 4" and 6" pipe, solid core, make the most useful. First, cut a length based on how many clamps you need, say 36". Raise your T-saw blade about 1" high, and rip one kerf the full length (this is the mouth opening of the clamp). Then chopsaw the pipe like a carrot into 1-1/2" to 2" lengths and you're done. Use where you would use spring clamps. I melt nails into the ends, and use them as miter clamps sometimes to hold miter shut til glue dries.

    But here is a laser oriented tip: If you need to mark metal for cutting or aligning for welding like I needed last week, and you dont have Cermark but access to powdercoat powder (a handfull will go a long way - ask a powdercoat shop), you can mark any metal easily - the laser melts the powder coat nicely:

    Powdercoat-laser.jpgPowdercoat-lines.jpg
    john.blazy_dichrolam_llc
    Delta Unisaw, Rabbit QX-80-1290 80W Laser, 5 x 12 ft laminating ovens, Powermax 22/44, Accuspray guns, Covington diamond lap and the usual assortment of cool toys / tools.

  3. #3
    can we see a picture of the clamp to give us a better Idea Oh and when using powered coat don't forget to turn the air off

    Quote Originally Posted by John Blazy View Post
    Cool. I like these threads - Learn a lot and save time. One of my favorite all time shop tips is making tons of clamps from PVC pipe. 3", 4" and 6" pipe, solid core, make the most useful. First, cut a length based on how many clamps you need, say 36". Raise your T-saw blade about 1" high, and rip one kerf the full length (this is the mouth opening of the clamp). Then chopsaw the pipe like a carrot into 1-1/2" to 2" lengths and you're done. Use where you would use spring clamps. I melt nails into the ends, and use them as miter clamps sometimes to hold miter shut til glue dries.

    But here is a laser oriented tip: If you need to mark metal for cutting or aligning for welding like I needed last week, and you dont have Cermark but access to powdercoat powder (a handfull will go a long way - ask a powdercoat shop), you can mark any metal easily - the laser melts the powder coat nicely:

    Powdercoat-laser.jpgPowdercoat-lines.jpg
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  4. #4
    For marking metal, I use something everyone has readily available... paper! I keep a couple of drawers full of old print and dupe PO's just for this!

    I use paper to mark where to put Cermark. I engrave large SS panels with diagonal logos and words over holes and around holes and outlines etc etc...
    I draw outlines around everything that needs engraved, cover the plate with paper and vector the outlines.
    Burn thru the paper good... It actually makes a bit of a sooty mess, however- the cut lines are distinct,
    the mess has never affected the Cermark burn, and it just wipes off afterward. This way I use ONLY as much Cermark as needed instead
    of covering half the plate to make sure I got enough on!
    Last edited by Kev Williams; 07-28-2016 at 12:08 AM.
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  5. #5
    I've done similar by printing the logo and "punching through" the paper with a dry erase to temporarily mark the extents of the engraved area thereby reducing wastage. Good tip with the vector/paper trick Kev!
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  6. #6
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    Here is a good Cermark trick for anyone who doesn't already know. I use it at least once a week!

    If you are unsure about where your laser will hit you can just engrave on top of the Cermark by turning your speed all the way up and using about 5-7% power. It won't go through the Cermark and onto your material. That way you can make adjustments before engraving onto your material. I hope this helps someone!
    Epilog Helix CO2 75W Laser Engraver

  7. #7
    Good tip Evan, I use that trick almost daily--- I put a guy's name on the $6000 knives he brings me, and it's nice to know exactly what you'll get before going OH $#**!!
    --to expound a bit, I also turn the res WAY down to 100, makes the test pass go really fast...
    Yes, blue tape would work but these knives (and guns and other goofy shaped objects) I just set on a towel, and I have a small round level I use to make sure the engraving area will all be in focus. If I use blue tape, I move the knife getting it off. So lightly grazing the Cermark is great! And it'll work on anything you put it on -although probably not wood, the new formula Simply Will Not Just Rinse Off like the old stuff did. I use a magic eraser and lots water to get the residue off. (not conducive to wood!)
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  8. #8

    Polished beveling jig

    That is pretty cool Evan. I use blue masking tape for that same purpose.

    Here's my latest tip: Easily do polished bevels in acrylic with a simple angle jig on the bed. The bottom edge of the jig has a lip to hold the material. I just rotate all the pcs of this Candylam four times and all edges are beveled. Any size can be done based on how large you make the angle block.

    IMG_20160728_141100 (1).jpgIMG_20160728_141247.jpg
    john.blazy_dichrolam_llc
    Delta Unisaw, Rabbit QX-80-1290 80W Laser, 5 x 12 ft laminating ovens, Powermax 22/44, Accuspray guns, Covington diamond lap and the usual assortment of cool toys / tools.

  9. #9
    Evan, do you re-laser the Cermark you just blackened or do you wash and re-coat?

    I found this out the grazing by accident once, getting my speed and power inverted. About had a heart attack when it all washed off!

  10. #10
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    My tip of the day is that you need to get a 10x jewelers or printers loupe .. inspecting the engraving with this gives you a lot of info as to what the laser is doing .. and is a great aid to optimise settings for the best result
    Rodney Gold, Toker Bros trophies, Cape Town , South Africa :
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  11. #11
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    Markel,

    I re-laser over the same spot I just blackened and it burns into the material as it normally would.
    Epilog Helix CO2 75W Laser Engraver

  12. #12
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    My tip would mainly pertain to people who do awards, which is mostly what I do. I cover the table with a large sheet of paper masking and laser an accurate rule for lining up plates, acrylics, glass plaques, etc. at the proper position. Helps to perfectly align multiple plaque plates, and especially when doing running several jobs at once. It also acts as scratch prevention for acrylics. Also for acrylics, I use the paper masking for positioning by lasering the outline of the acrylic onto the masking. I change it out every couple of months on the machine I use for acrylics. On the ULS lasers I cover the entire table. On the Fusion, I just use an 8-inch wide piece and to the top and left sides because the table is so large.
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  13. #13
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    Here is another Cermark trick that I use a lot when engraving on a rotary attachment.

    (I'm assuming this is what happens) When I'm engraving on a rotary attachment and there is a break, or a gap in the artwork where the laser has to stop firing, the rotary attachment always jumps. It's as if it's trying to be as efficient as possible by rotating faster when the laser is not firing. When it does this, the object I'm engraving gets jerked and hasn't set back on the attachment yet, so the laser leaves a line in front of the actual artwork that clearly is not suppose to be there and it's permanent. It looks like crap and produces a finished product that I'm not proud to claim as my work. However, I have found a fix!

    All you have to do is create a line below your artwork to keep the laser firing, so the rotary attachment doesn't jump. I use CMYK colors and (C: 1 M:1 Y: 1 K:0) is what I make this line at the bottom and when you wash the Cermark off it comes right off with it. I hope this helps someone!
    Last edited by Evan Requardt; 07-29-2016 at 4:17 PM.
    Epilog Helix CO2 75W Laser Engraver

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodne Gold View Post
    My tip of the day is that you need to get a 10x jewelers or printers loupe .. inspecting the engraving with this gives you a lot of info as to what the laser is doing .. and is a great aid to optimise settings for the best result
    Harbor Freight sells a 5-pack of loupes, 2x, 3x, 5x, 7x, and 10x.. They're just plastic but the optics are actually very good, I've never had a 'wavy' one yet. Best part is the whole pack is dirt cheap!
    loupes.jpg
    (they might be a snick more in the store).

    I'm on my 3rd pack, I have them all over the place. Yeah they break and come apart when repeatedly dropping them, but cheap to replace!

    And a secondary tip-- you might think 'what good is a 2x loupe'--- I make a lot of operator panels, and most have small holes on them at least someplace- I reference where to align the engraving on the panels by lining up the red LED pointer to the bottom-center of one of the holes. Once I have the XY coordinates I put in guidelines to match, and place the whole panel layout on the screen and align the bottom center of the measured box at the guidelines. All the engraving is now ready to go...

    The 2x loupe is PERFECT for that little bit of zoom to verify where the LED actually is! The focus length of the 2x is like 10" away so you don't have to get your head all into the machine

    also-- I also mark mine with a white or silver paint stick with large numbers so I know which is which--
    Last edited by Kev Williams; 07-29-2016 at 11:11 AM.
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  15. #15
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    Rodney...

    I know you have LOADS of free time in your day. (teasing grin) But if you do actually have a bit of time, could you show or describe what you are referring to when you mentioned using a Loupe to check out in detail what the laser is doing? What will we be seeing? What clues do they give to us.

    Dave
    900x600 80watt EFR Tube laser from Liaocheng Ray Fine Tech LTD. Also a 900x600 2.5kw spindle CNC from Ray Fine. And my main tool, a well used and loved Jet 1642 Woodlathe with an outboard toolrest that helps me work from 36 inch diameters down to reallllllly tiny stuff.

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