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Thread: Assembly tables

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Somewhere in Maine
    Posts
    203

    Assembly tables

    My old kluged together assembly table that was thrown together years ago out of shop scrap for a single project has finally given up and developed a bow in the center. The time has come for a new table.

    I'm looking at approximately 3'x5', around 26-27" in height (I'm short), probably on locking castors since my shop is small. Primary use is assembly and finishing of casework and furniture. Perfectly flat (and staying that way) is an absolute requirement.

    Any thoughts, pointers, suggestions, ideas, etc. are welcomed and greatly appreciated. Bonus points awarded for pictures.

    Thanks
    Bill R., somewhere in Maine

  2. #2
    My shop is small too so my assembly table is also my table saw outfeed support and my track saw cutting station as well as my assembly table. It is based upon a Ron Paulk total station design. It is 3x7 feet and rolls on 6 totally locking casters. It has two tops of 3/4 plywood spaced 8 inches apart. The idea is you place tools on the lower top to keep the upper surface clean. The top of the workstation has 20mm holes on 4 inch centers about like a Festool MFT. They facilitate clamping including with a right angle jig and some use dogs in the as cutting guides. I also have a crosscut jig for the workbench based upon the Paulk design that allows accurate crosscuts up to 3 feet. It has stops for repetitive cuts. I'm quite happy with it. I bored the holes with pegboard and a special router baseplate I got from Woodrave. I used a Freud 20mm bit.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    I used a harbor freight motorcycle work table as the base for my assembly table, as I wanted variable height. It has a pedal to raise and lower the table, and a bar to lock the height. They go on sale for about 299. Put a double thickness of 3/4 plywood as the top,and used 3/4" thick T track along one side and one edge to use Kreg clamps, for building face frames. I like being able to build a box, then lower the box to install a face frame.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    3,078
    The Paulk assembly table looks good.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    Ideally, an assemble table should be variable in height unless you make the same thing over and over and over and over and... So consider building a very flat surface ( torsion table is a great way to do that ) and then provide a way to have it at alternate heights off the floor. That can be accomplished with rectangular boxes to get three heights, half-lapped "X" supports that break down easily for storage or other ways if you want to get "fancy".
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    odessa, missouri
    Posts
    1,910
    Blog Entries
    3
    You've been on the forum long enough to have seen enough ideals to construct a table. If your making cabinets build low and furniture build high. You don't need a torsion box for flatness. I use a 8/4 hickory top. Everyone has an opinion and none will build or use their table like you. Do a google search for ideals that suit your needs and build away...jack
    Last edited by jack duren; 07-30-2016 at 8:53 PM.

  7. #7
    Ron Paulk's designs have a double layer top supported by plywood folding sawhorses. It would be easy to have different height sawhorses to have different workbench heights. I didn't do that because I wanted the storage of the base of my workbench. I also do not need a low bench real often. I assemble either on the workbench or the shop floor. My second Paulk inspired surface (not shown in the pictures above) is 2 feet by about 6 feet and is normally the side support with flip stops for my CMS/RAS. I can pull it off the cabinet it sits on and put it on the floor or other supports. If I really need a lower workbench I can set one up pretty easily. I made it removable mainly to have a surface I could use with the CMS away from the shop. It is also built of 1/2 plywood to make it more portable. It is surprisingly sturdy. The Paulk design is not a traditional torsion box but it works like one with the ribs tying the two horizontal surfaces together and stiffening them and keeping them flat.

  8. #8
    Assembly bench.jpg 4x8. The top is actually upside down at this point. The top is 3/4 MDF with several coats of BLO.

    The bottom bays have one drawer in each one.

  9. #9
    Just wondering how the dog holes hold up after repeated use in 3/4” MDF assembly bench top? Trying to decide between MDF and plywood for the top of my Paulk style bench.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Issaquah, Washington
    Posts
    1,320
    This is my version;
    Approx 34" x 50"
    Adjustable height wheels that lock, Festool systainers and drawers on both sides below, torsion box MDF top with Incra Miter Tracks, MFT gets lifted out of the way to ceiling with a pulley system.
    With the MFT in place it serves as runoff for table saw and router table at approx 35". With the MFT removed it is a very nice assemble table.
    It has served me well in all configurations.

    Hope this helps a bit- Bill
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Itapevi, SP - Brazil
    Posts
    672
    My workshop is 104 square foot. Good enough for most the things I needed but an assembly table.

    Small stuff is mounted on my workbench and bigger ones at the place they will be like kitchen, dorm, ... If it is not possible I will use the garage. Always directly over the floor. So far I have no need for a dedicated table.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    My assembly table, which also serves as an outfeed table for 2 of my table saws on a single mobile base, consists of 3/4" plywood + 1" MDF + 1/4" tempered Masonite top over a 2x4 frame with 4x4 legs. Under one side are 2 rollaway cabinets without casters. Under the other side is a full length shelf whose 2x4 supports allow just enough space to slide plastic milk crates underneath the shelf.


    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,347
    Blog Entries
    1
    My assembly table, in my small shop, is simply a piece of 3/4" plywood on two horses, easy to put up and take down.
    Dennis

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,492
    Blog Entries
    1
    I have an outfeed / assembly / drawer unit combo at a fixed height.

    TS-Outfeed (38).jpg

    For variable height I use some modified adjustable saw horses and torsion-beams.

    Saw Horse Mod (4).jpg . Saw Horse Mod (3).jpg

    Niki CT Dresser (147).jpg . Media Cabinet (169).jpg

    I also have a couple sets of slotted panels that go together in a tall and in a short configuration for use as a base for the beams.

    Beams (17).jpg
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  15. #15
    I've built a few. Torsion tops and welded metal lowers that contain drawers and cubbies. I've got a 4' X 8" monster in my shop now. It gets a lot of use. On casters as you suggest.

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