Dresser layout

[Robert Engel]

Will be starting a dresser build in a month or so I have a design worked up. This is the first project I have designed from the ground up.

Primary wood: Cherry. Sec wood: Poplar.

dresser design1.jpg

L 54", H 38"

Mainly looking for input re: overall design/suggestions/criticism

[Jamie Buxton]

So your case sides are going to be 3/4" thick, with 5/8"-deep trenches for sliding dovetails? They're going to be pretty floppy at each one of those trenches. I'd make the sides thicker, so you have more meat for that joinery.

And what's the joinery at the corners of the case?

[Stew Hagerty]

So your case sides are going to be 3/4" thick, with 5/8"-deep trenches for sliding dovetails? They're going to be pretty floppy at each one of those trenches. I'd make the sides thicker, so you have more meat for that joinery.

And what's the joinery at the corners of the case?

+1
I'd think more like 1" sides & drop the sliding dovetails to no more than 1/2", in fact I'd probably make them 3/8" deep myself.

[Brian Holcombe]

Beautiful drawing! I like the exploded detail as well. On the comments above, I agree and suggest 1/4" depth on the sliding dovetails. You might reconsider those feet, given that seem to clash with the style of the cabinet on the whole. A plinth style base would look right in my opinion.

[Wayne Lomman]

Robert, the proportions look good. The feet are in keeping with the style, but so is a plinth. 1/2" sliding dovetails would be sufficient. You stop the joint before the face edge in any case so it won't be too weak. The corner joints can be the same as the intermediate joints. They become in effect a rebate and you can screw through the top and bottom to retain it. I assume it is going to be drawers? If so, make the grain vertical for the faces. It presents a challenge but the result is unsurpassed. Cheers.

[Robert Engel]

Thanks, all.

Mainly interested in feedback on overall design but since we're ww'ers of course we go right the details, LOL. (Of course I hung it out there like bait, didn't I?)

You are all correct the DT as shown is too deep into the side. I wasn't focused on it at the time I drew it.

No sliding DT. The drawer divider frame will be housed in a 1/4" deep dado. The DT will extend about 2" deep. Not sure if I will do it as shown or as a standard DT, or shouldered vs. non shouldered.

The sides will be joined to top and bottom with 1/2 blind DT's extending the full width of the panel.

Thx.

[Brian Tymchak]

Nice drawings. Clean lines. I like it a lot.

At 54" wide, 3/4 stock, I have a concern that the bottom panel will noticeably sag with time with load in the drawers. Those center dividers will focus all the weight of the clothes to the middle of the base panel and it is unsupported. I would suggest adding a base frame, or making the bottom panel thicker, etc.

Did a quick google of shaker style dressers -> Link.

It seems most of the pieces have a base, or aprons supporting the base panel, or a thicker base panel.

[Robert Engel]

Nice drawings. Clean lines. I like it a lot.

At 54" wide, 3/4 stock, I have a concern that the bottom panel will noticeably sag with time with load in the drawers. Those center dividers will focus all the weight of the clothes to the middle of the base panel and it is unsupported. I would suggest adding a base frame, or making the bottom panel thicker, etc.

Did a quick google of shaker style dressers -> Link.

It seems most of the pieces have a base, or aprons supporting the base panel, or a thicker base panel.

There is a base which attaches feet and front apron. I don't envision a problem but I can make the base thicker if needed.

Good point. Thanks.

[Robert Engel]

Progress so far & notes:

Note crack in panel. Didn't notice it until after the glue up. Fixed with epoxy. On the inside to no big deal.

Note to self: Inspect your wood more closely!!

IMG_1976.jpg

Stock milled up for drawers:

IMG_1977.jpg

1/2 blinds in bottom and top:

IMG_1985.JPG

Flattening sides 100% with hand tools (very satisfying):

IMG_1984.jpg

Front assembly complete. Carcase ready for glue up. I plan to use epoxy with wood flour.
Dovetailed 1" in from front with 1/2 laps in vertical divider. One problem I had was getting some blow out when tapping one of the dt's out during fitting. This is because the case side is with the grain and the cherry was a bit brittle. Solution could be 1) make side wide, inset DT and cut side down/plane later after glueing or 2) make a little collar to clamp on.

Another mistake was making the dado too wide. It should have only been about 1/4" wide.
And yet another design faux pau was bringing the dados for the vertical dividers all the way out to the front instead of stopping them.
Also, I did them on the TS with a dado. Router or cut by hand would definitely have been better (duh!).
But I'm fairly happy with progress so far. It will be hand tools pretty from here on out. Looking fwd to that.

IMG_0001.JPG

Next up: Glue up carcase, then dust dividers.

[Phil Mueller]

Very nice Robert. Appreciate the build photos. I am going to attempt my first "case goods" project over the winter and these build threads are really helpful.

[Yonak Hawkins]

I like how you've lined up the pulls.

[Robert Engel]

Frame and dust dividers completed. I am quite happy with the dovetailed dividers. This is my first attempt at these. I left them proud and will plane them flush. The internal rails are not glued and the center of the rear divider stiles are screwed to the center rail of the back.

Yesterday I did second milling on drawer parts and have cut to length and fitted to openings. A couple errors were discovered, one being the rear board on the top is slightly low by a strong 1/16", impeding the drawer from going in all the way. I will have to remove the back and plane it down. Thought I had it tweaked but there are slight issues with uneveness between front dividers and drawer runners on a couple other drawer openings. Nothing a rabbet block plane can't handle.

My next decision will be the drawer fronts. I had decided on overlay fronts, but have discovered the widest cherry board is going to be about 1/8" too narrow (ugh). This is the bottom row so I'm thinking I will make the rabbet a bit narrower on the bottom of the drawer. If that doesn't work I will attempt to glue on a strip hoping it won't be too noticeable.

There will be a frame and molding applied to the bottom of the chest.

The top will feature quite nice figuring and I think will be quite interesting. I will post that when I get it flattened and cut to size.

Dresser assembly.jpg

[Robert Engel]

Progress so far:

Bottom molding and feet:
Feet detail.jpg Bottom molding.jpg

Front edge glued/screwed to dresser bottom//sides and back screwed only in oversized holes. Feet mitered/splined//glued to molding//hand planed flush. One mistake I made was when scribing the base molding I didn't allow enough for the cove cut so I had to recut and add a wider strip.

Now I'm working on the cockbeading. Never have done it before I'm sure by the time I get to the 10th drawer I might know what I'm doing!

Cockbead.jpg

Also, on the veneer problem I had previously posted about, after obtaining another piece of veneer, I decided to apply Danish oil to see what happens and it seems to have evened out the colors enough that I think it will be ok. I'm anticipating with a bit more time it will even things out even more as the rest of the piece darkens.

After the cockbeading, I'll finish tackling the top which has a lot of wild grain so it will be a challenge.

I'm also considering glueing in some drawer runners along the inside of the drawer bottoms. I'm not happy with the way some the drawers can rack when closing. Open to suggestions on how to do that. I could take the bottoms out but the dust dividers have solid partitions. My thought is to clamp a couple strips then remove drawer and just screw them in.