Flush Trimming Edge Banding?

[jack duren]

When in commercial the edge bander got most of the material followed by a file. When I wasn't using an edge bander a razor knife followed by a file. Routers work for some veneers yet create more damage on such veneers as oak....

[John Lankers]

Saw a woodworker named Timothy Wilmots use this method with a router. Easy to make the jig and takes no time to trim a lot of panels and put a small bevel on. The relevant part of the video is 50 seconds in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMk8RceCCu4

That's exactly the way I do it - I must have reinvented the wheel

[Rick Fisher]

Plane blade, then a quick buff with sandpaper to ease the corner..

[Paul Girouard]

12" planer knife , I use my left hand on top of the knife which is laid flat on the piece , then pinch the knife down and " Skive" the edge banding off , slid the knife down as you Skive off the overhanging E/Bing.

Follow that up with PSA sand paper that's stuck to the maple block, works great.

[Mel Fulks]

Haven't used all these methods but Ive used several and was slow to change to the file. Mainly because I thought I would have to still use a knife or chisel first. With the file most don't do any pre cutting with another tool. You remove excess wood and smooth all with file. Grain direction makes little if any difference with a file. But it has to be sharp. Plasticut files are sharp enough that you can easily cut your finger and it can be hard to remove blood from wood. Wear gloves.

[Mark Wooden]

Like Mel, I use a good, sharp file. A plain bastard cut works fine but cuts a little slower and loads quicker than a PlastiCut. I put a few wraps of masking tape on the end to keep the the file from scratching the surface and cutting only at the edge. I clean the file with a stiff bristle brush (not wire, dulls the file) while working. I sand the edge when I sand the rest of the piece.
I've used just about every router jig, table setup,ho'made and commercial slicer/trimmer and the file has always been fastest, easiest and most consistent way to get a quality trim with veneer edge tape. Nice and quiet, no cords or real sharp blades to deal with.

[Lee Schierer]

I use a flat "bastard cut" file and file toward the plywood being careful not to cut into the face veneer. It goes pretty fast. The file will leave little ridges that clean up easily with 220 grit hand sanding.

[Robert Engel]

I've done a ton of this.

+ 3, 4, 5 or whatever on a file. Its a snap once you get the technique down. Hold just off parallel to face. I usually cut the end short with scissers and file it over, too.
Follow up with 220. You're done in like 3 minutes/drawer.

Do NOT use a trimmer or knife they are intended for melamine. Due to grain direction you will have tearout if you're not extremely careful.

Also do NOT use a router for the same reason, plus very difficult to balance on edge of drawer, plus, its overkill for this.

[Robert Willing]

what bander do you sell?

[jack duren]

I've done a ton of this.

+ 3, 4, 5 or whatever on a file. Its a snap once you get the technique down. Hold just off parallel to face. I usually cut the end short with scissers and file it over, too.
Follow up with 220. You're done in like 3 minutes/drawer.

Do NOT use a trimmer or knife they are intended for melamine. Due to grain direction you will have tearout if you're not extremely careful.

Also do NOT use a router for the same reason, plus very difficult to balance on edge of drawer, plus, its overkill for this.

You can use a knife if you know what your doing on either melamine or ply.

On ply you can also use an orbital as long as your spinning it in the correct direction...

[brian zawatsky]

I also use a sharp file for wood veneer tape. For PVC edgebanding I use a 2" wide bench chisel, super sharp, with a very slight back bevel on it. This keeps from scraping or cutting in to the finished face, be it melamine or plywood.