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Thread: Need help making table saw top

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    16
    Yes the saw is the Evolv

    I plan to make frames, drawers, and cabinets.

    I looked at the saw today. Modifying the existing track would not work. It is around an 1/8" thick and to have the gauge sit flush I'd have to take about that much out of the existing track. So I think I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and buy a new saw. Hopefully I can sell my Evolv for 100 bucks or so. Haven't used it much since I had been learning stuff on my dads machines. Any recommendations on a good all around entry to mid-level saw that has standard tracks etc?

  2. #17
    For entry level and close to the budget you're talking about, I would recommend a Delta contractor saw (older or newer), build your own extensions/outfeed tables around and behind it, put a Biesemeyer T style fence on it and call it a day. Probably looking at $100-$250 for the saw and another $200 (new) for a fence. You can build the out feed tables and extensions wings pretty easily yourself and it will be a great project to break in the table saw and build some stuff with it.

    I personally feel like trying to do anything repeatable and accurate would prove frustrating and annoying with any less of some variation of that setup.

    Of course, if you look long and hard enough you may be able to stumble across an old Unisaw for $500, which is a whole other class of potential than a contractor saw, but you know what they say about the slippery slope...

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
    Posts
    16,622
    Nick, a lot of us...most of us, started out with lesser equipment and progressed from there - I think it is a natural part of the woodworker's evolution. As you get into more advanced woodworking projects you will value the accuracy and reliability of better equipment. "What table saw should I get?" is a frequently asked question. A little forum searching will bring up tons of info but don't hesitate to ask questions.
    Good luck!
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  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    16
    The search on the forum is pretty fussy. It won't let me search terms like "best saw" etc. I'm basically looking for a saw that will accept my incra v27 ( love it! Used it in my dads shop today) and has a 3/4" standard miter gauge track and makes accurate cuts with a decent fence. I'd like to buy one new for $300 or less. Right now I'm mostly making a lot of the same cuts so I guess consistency is most important as well as being able to accept other add-ons

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    761
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Boehm View Post
    So I think I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and buy a new saw.
    I think you’re going to be in a lot better position doing this. You don’t have a location in your info - that could help people make suggestions for any saws they know if in the area.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    TX, NM or on the road
    Posts
    845
    With your budget I would recommend watching your local Craigslist and pawnshops. The right deals don't come around everyday, but every so often a real steal of a deal can fall in your lap. Set your budget and have cash ready, check several times a day and be ready to meet at a moments notice. There are most like others looking for the same deal, first with the cash wins.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    16
    Well guys, I'm not sure it was a huge step forward but I was at an "open box store" near where I live and I found a Kobalt KT1015 for $120. I put it together and even though it had been opened it didn't appear that it was ever put together. All the part bags were still sealed and everything was there. I know it isn't the best saw but it should allow me to work a little easier and do more than my craftsman saw could. Any opinions on this saw? The rolling base it came with isn't very stiff so I guess my first task will be to try to make it a little more sturdy.

  8. #23
    Nick, you did just fine. I looked over the ratings and they are positive-enough to take the plunge. This seems like a noticeably better idea than modifying your old saw.

    Is it perfect? No. It's a direct drive jobsite saw. Is it good enough to start with? At that price, HECK YES.

    Will you want a nicer saw one day? Sure you will. But I started on a brand new delta direct drive saw that I paid $100 for. I used it until I learned what I really wanted and then sold it for $50. (The $50 "loss" was well worth it because it helped me get educated.) In its place, I bought a 20 yr old delta contractor saw with a 52" biesemeyer fence. I paid $400 and it has done everything Ive asked it to do. Not everyone needs a $1000+ tablesaw. (Though I bet a $5000 slider would be a joy to use. )

    Go slow. See what you like and dislike about it over time. Then upgrade to what you've decided you want. At that price, you'll get most of it back when you sell it.

    Enjoy!
    Fred
    Last edited by Frederick Skelly; 08-12-2016 at 9:41 PM.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Shoreline, CT
    Posts
    2,923
    The OP indicated he wants to make cabinets, with drawers and face frames. He will need more than a table saw. For cutting the sheet goods to make cabinet boxes, a track saw will work dramatically more efficiently that trying to wrangle such panels on a table saw. It need not be a Festool, though those are nice. He should also make a crosscut but for his table saw to dramatically improve the precision of cross cuts for face frames. And, of course a Kreg jig is going to be the cheapest satisfactory tool for joining cabinet parts.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    San Diego, Ca
    Posts
    1,647
    Nick, you said that there wasn't much on Craig's list. If I were you, I'd give it some time - - perhaps a few months. Another poster mentioned the low prices for a Craftsman table saw on CL.

    I saw an ad for a Harbor fright table saw. Before you cringe, I might say that it has a heavy cast iron table with some sheet metal wings and a useable fence. The guy selling it said that the motor wouldn't spin up very fast and said that it was related to his garage wiring and that I could rewire for 220 (blah blah blah). I bought it for $75 as it had good bones and a new carbide fine tooth blade. When I took it apart at home, I found that the centrifugal switch contacts were the problem. I ran some polishing paper through them, and re-adjusted the position and it works great.

    So, even though there may not be a decent table saw available today, perhaps you'll find one in the near future. I took a look at Craigs list for Richmond, Va. and was surprised that there were several (IIRC, 58 saws), with many in the under $250 area that I would consider to have decent bones.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Between No Where & No Place ,WA
    Posts
    1,339
    Since this is a new saw, the first thing to do is check that the miter gauge slot is parallel to the blade and that the rip fence is adjustable to be parallel to the miter gauge slot/blade and will hold its settings through its travel. Checking the miter slots and adjusting the fence will save you time and frustration when you work with the saw. And it is not uncommon for saws to need a bit of tweaking as a result of shipping, handling, etc., to work right.

    Also check to see that both miter gauge slots are parallel to each other and do not taper in or out. Especially important if you ever think you will need/make a dual runner sled or any other jig that has/needs two runners. With a dual runner sled, if the slots are not parallel, the runners will bind, making it difficult -- if not impossible to -- use the sled/jig.

    I am not familiar with how to adjust the top/saw mounting on a this type of saw to correct any misalignment, but your owner's manual should have this information.

    You may feel the need for a dado set. But before buying a dado set, determine if the arbor is long enough to accept the dado and its various cutters. I have been told that some saws of this type have arbors too short arbors to accept a dado blade and cutters. Again, check the owner's manual or contact the manufacturer.
    Last edited by Ray Newman; 08-18-2016 at 3:54 PM.

  12. if its intended for wood furniture or cabinet then i believe wood top is great choice with that. Try to check in Ikea site.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    S.E. Wisconsin
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Boehm View Post
    Thanks for the comments but I don't see any reason to completely move away from this saw. The guts of the saw are great and it has plenty of power. The only thing I don't like for what I am currently doing is the fence and the miter gauge. I bought a new miter gauge "the incra v27" to try to remedy the situation but it doesn't fit the current track system on the saw top. hence why I want to modify the top.
    Check on Youtube for some fence video's. There are some pretty neat ones that folks build and post on youtube. Also take a look for saw table extensions and that kind of stuff for ideas.
    Pat
    Sometimes, I wonder what it is I'm trying to do.

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