Unisaw Platinum Edition, Did 36" Exist? Seller Asking $750

[Matt Day]

The fence itself is the expensive part. You can buy the front rail (2x3x1/4 I think) at a metal supplier which will be MUCH cheaper than from Bies. - like $30.
You can make a shop made mobile base or buy a used one. I think you should budget more like $100 for that stuff.

As I said above, use it all as bargaining power. Tell the seller how much you're going to have to do to it to get it functional, and then make a lower offer.

Assuming you've got some basic Mechanical skills and don't mind a bit of a project, it should be pretty easy.

[Cary Falk]

With everything you described the saw is priced way too high. Parts add up quick and there is nothing magical about a Uni. When major parts go missing(front rail) I ask myself who looses these kind of things and what else is wrong with it(no way to power it on). I bought a 1970 UNI a long time ago as a restore project. I paid $400 and think that I overpaid. I ended up selling it. I think I got $900 for it but it was plug n play and in pristine condition with a 72" fence and mobile base. I think a Uni is worth less than that now if it were plug and play which this one is far from it. Since there is no fence on it you might as well pop the hood and make sure the trunnions are not cracked where they connect to the cabinet. This is a week spot.

[Matt Day]

Cary, there's a fence in the pictures, just not the front rail.

[Patrick Irish]

He has the fence and front and rear angle iron supports, just missing the front guide rail and the splitter.

Delta used a 2x3" 14 gauge steel tube for their front guide rails. I can't find 14ga locally, only 1/8 (11ga) or 16ga. I don't think the thickness would matter as 2"x3" is all that matters. Nice thing is since he has the angle support piece, the holes will be there to line up to attach the guide rails. Just a few holes drilled and tapping them.

I need to get an extension cord adapter thing so I can plug this ...... 56895b10-cc76-4f79-a99a-26130f5f2b28_145.jpg

intol this somehow....

3-prong_dryer_outlet.jpg

[Cary Falk]

Cary, there's a fence in the pictures, just not the front rail.

I understand that Matt. Who looses the front rail to a table saw????? Either somebody that doesn't take care of things or somebody that has no clue about the saw and is flipping it. I get tired of people on CL that want top dollar for incomplete tools and then look at you like you are crazy when you tell them what it takes to get it functioning.

[Bruce Page]

Or some one who has moved a few times. Stuff happens.
I lost a coffee table between California & New Mexico.. (Actually North American Van Lines lost it but I watched them load it in CA.)

[Patrick Irish]

Couldn't pass it up. My dad and I made a plug for it so I can test it today. The seller got this saw, a 2hp unisaw that said 'arbor saw' and other tools couple years ago from a friend cabinet maker. The seller never powered them on. The saw I bought had a keyed switch on the front, the seller thought it was a 110v outlet. The cabinet maker had this setup with a 50" front guide rail but that somehow got tossed or left behind. It's a model 36-944.

We go to start it and nothing. Seller didnt have the key for the switch. Only option was to cut the wires and twist lock them together. It worked and saw fired right up. Smooth too. He wanted $750, I offered $650 and we settled on $700. That does include the Excalibur nearly new over arm guard dust collector. Seller had no clue it opened up for a 52" setup. Also has that Beisemeyer over arm T-guide guard system. The clear guard is cracked.

No splitter but it does have the white I think Bessy quick release bracket. Not sure what I'll use. Love a riving knife but know those are hard to get for these.

I'm hoping to get to the steel yard and get my tubing tomorrow. Gotta decide on the length I want. I'll probably go with the length that a 36" saw had. Maybe go 40" right of blade. I don't have a lot of room in my garage, certainly not for a 52" setup.

Heading to woodcraft in the morning to get a mobile base kit too.

Was thinking about selling the Excalibur, good idea or not? New it's like $400.

Oh and this splitter I left there, didnt think it bolted on but after looking in the manual it does with another bracket and that rod thing....both pieces I don't have. Wonder if I should drive out there and get it just in case or just put $$ toward some other kind.

guard1.jpg

[Cary Falk]

Love a riving knife but know those are hard to get for these.
A riving knife does not exist for this saw.

I'm hoping to get to the steel yard and get my tubing tomorrow. Gotta decide on the length I want. I'll probably go with the length that a 36" saw had. Maybe go 40" right of blade. I don't have a lot of room in my garage, certainly not for a 52" setup.
[COLOR=rgb(255,0,0)]40" was perfect for me but 36 is close enough if space is a concern.[/COLOR]


Was thinking about selling the Excalibur, good idea or not? New it's like $400.
I would keep the Excalibur and sell the Beiesemeyer if it were me. The Excalibur probably has better resale value though. I paid $175 for a new one on CL about 5 years ago.

Oh and this splitter I left there, didnt think it bolted on but after looking in the manual it does with another bracket and that rod thing....both pieces I don't have. Wonder if I should drive out there and get it just in case or just put $$ toward some other kind.
Since you already have the mount for the Beisemeyer I would just get a set of splitters from Sharkguard. You don't need the OEM because you have 2 overarm guards. If you think you will sell the saw in the future, go get the guard and then you can sell the saw with the OEM and then sell the overarm one separately.

guard1.jpg

See above in red

[Bill Adamsen]

It is a fundamentally very good saw and you got it for a good price. I have one I bought new about thirty five years ago and it works just fine, always has.

I have the Unifence and I cut the end off (even shorter than your) since I only use the saw for rabbets, dadoes, finger joints, and the rare rip. But I wish I had the Beisemeyer (more useful even for the limited fence work I do) so I would not get rid of that. So as someone else mentioned ... it all depends on your expected usage. The key from my perspective is having a stable saw with good mobility and the best dust collection you can get. If I had your package I would dump the Excalibur overarm thingy because for how I use that tool, it would just get in my way. Congratulations!

[Ray Newman]

The Saw Center in MA also has parts and will rebuild Unisaw arbors: www.sawcenter.com