Bench chisel handles

[Derek Cohen]

I couldn't resist the opportunity that Steve presented a day or so ago, when he posted pictures of chisels made by Larry Williams and Don McConnell. We had been discussing the ergonomics of mortice chisels, when these bench chisel handles popped up. Rather than sidetrack the discussion, I thought a new thread would be better.

What I will do is present a few different bench chisel handles, and say what I like or dislike about them. I am hoping that others with a similar interest will comment on this, post other handles, and discuss theirs.



Left to right: Marples, Veritas, Blue Spruce, Koyamaichi, shopmade replacement for Stanley 750, original handle for 750.



The Marples is a terrific looking handle, and it looks like it should be comfortable. I know George swears by his. But I find that they lack something to push against. This will lead to fatigue.



The Larry Williams design that Steve likes so much is actually very similar to the Marples, only octagonal. This should offer better registration, but no more control than the Marples ..



The Don McConnell design that Steve also linked to differs slightly. These are carving chisels, so shorter. The rear is rounded more, and it looks like they are designed to be pushed with the palm.



The Veritas have good length and a solid rest against which to press a thumb. The sides are slightly flattened for registration. The chisel handle is securely gripped and does not fatigue.



The Blue Spruce is arguably the best looking handle on the planet. It is very similar to the Veritas, just a little shorter. I prefer the extra length of the latter - but I have larger hands.



The Koyamaichi lacks the thumb rest, however it is comfortable to push with the heel of the palm. Of course, this design is meant for using with a gennou, but it is more comfortable than one might expect (not comfortable to want to use it as a parer).



The shopmade handle came before the Veritas, and is similar in shape, but longer. It lies between a bench chisel and a paring chisel. The longer handle offers a little more precision (slight the hand back a little to make fine adjustments), but is less able to be pushed from the palm.



The Stanley 750 handle I found too short. It nestles in the palm, but is too small for my hand. It may suit someone else better. (apology for the poor photo) ..



Your thoughts and comments ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Cherry]

I gotta admit, when I started looking for chisels I bought a LN 1/2" and a Veritas 1/4". I ultimately decided to buy all the LN's but I can't bring myself to sell that Veritas... It wouldn't take much and I'll have a set of Veritas too.
I also have a Veritas 2"butt chisel. You like those?

[Derek Cohen]

Why did you buy LNs? Because you liked them in your hand, or because of their reputation?

Butt chisels? I really do not see the point of them.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

This is a good reason for me to get out to the shop today and take some pictures.

Only a small fraction of my chisels were purchased new. Many of them came in lots or were found at yard sales and all of the other places where rust accumulates for the hunter.

The odd selection of short chisels that have come my way are my version of butt chisels. They are used often when it is advantageous to be closer to the work.

jtk

[Steve Voigt]

[snip]

The Larry Williams design that Steve likes so much is actually very similar to the Marples, only octagonal. This should offer better registration, but no more control than the Marples ..



The Don McConnell design that Steve also linked to differs slightly. These are carving chisels, so shorter. The rear is rounded more, and it looks like they are designed to be pushed with the palm.




[snip]

Derek,

Nice write up with lots of nice pics. Thank you.

Just to clarify, these are the type of handles I prefer:

IMG_2539.JPG

The first and third from left are bench chisel handles, about 4 1/2" long. You can push from the heel, or choke up a little for mor delicate operations. They are nice to use and easy to make. The design is adaptable, as shown by the second from left. This Jennings & Griffin paring chisel is about 14" with handle. I also use these handles for some of my saw files, as seen on the far right.

By the way, I very much like the design with the spot for the thumb to push on, like the Veritas or Blue Spruce, or the Stanley 750 (though I agree those are too short, even for my small hands). But compared to tang chisels, the design puts the thumb quite far from the edge; you've got 1/2" - 1" of handle above that point, then the socket, then the blade. It is a very different feel from a tanged chisel.

[Patrick Chase]

Butt chisels? I really do not see the point of them.

They're compact and therefore nice when you bring your tools to a worksite, or for use in tight spaces (though the latter is admittedly infrequent in practice).

They also economize on steel, which is probably why you can only get >1" PMV-11 chisels in butt configuration.

[Patrick Chase]

By the way, I very much like the design with the spot for the thumb to push on, like the Veritas or Blue Spruce, or the Stanley 750 (though I agree those are too short, even for my small hands). But compared to tang chisels, the design puts the thumb quite far from the edge; you've got 1/2" - 1" of handle above that point, then the socket, then the blade. It is a very different feel from a tanged chisel.

A few comments:

1. The Veritas chisels have the handle flange (widest part of the handle) ~1/4" above the rim of the socket, or basically as close as they could make it. I suspect they did that to mitigate exactly the issue you raise. Blue Spruce chose to include a tapered handle section between the ferrule and the handle flange, though, so they clearly could have place the flange closer to the blade if they'd wanted. On the plus side their ferrule is shorter than the Veritas' socket, so the overall blade-to-flange distance is pretty similar.
2. There's no law that says you have to keep your entire hand above the widest part of the handle. When I'm using my Veritas chisels and want my hand closer to the edge I pinch the socket between my thumb and forefinger, and rest my ring finger just above the handle flange. The fact that the little bit of taper in the handle below the flange and the socket form a ~continuous conical surface makes this grip comfortable. The Blue Spruce is similarly continuous below the flange. It's almost as thought they, like, thought this stuff through :-).
3. IMO we really shouldn't be relying on the handle for precision control, so I question the importance of hand<->blade distance. That's what your other hand (on the blade) is for.

[Brian Holcombe]

I'm not sure I've ever wanted a register on a bench chisel. I have short handle blue spruce paring chisels that I really like the handles on, very comfortable.

I also have these Konobu paring chisels which have wonderful handles.

[Jim Koepke]

These are a few of the handles which are comfortable in my hands:

Chisel Handles.jpg

At the left is a Stanley #440 series (iirc) with original handle. The leather washers were missing when it came to me. Next is a Buck Brothers chisel with original handle. The top of the handle was a bit mushroomed. It has since been trimmed a bit. This is one of my favorite chisels to use for some reason. It has about a 15º bevel which is great for paring.

The next two are Witherby chisels followed by a Karpenter, made by the same Winsted Tool Works that made Witherby chisels. These three have the basic style of handle mostly made when one of my chisels needs a new handle. The round top is comfortable to push against with the palm of my hand and the ring at the base keeps my hand from sliding when pushing. The last two are marked P.S.&W. and Union Hardware Company. Both are nice chisels. The larger handle is sometimes persuaded with a tap from a mallet. Both have rings at the base to keep the hand from slipping beyond the handle.

jtk

[Warren Mickley]

Steve's chisels are the most like mine. Don's carving tools are nice, but quite fat for my taste. Larry's tools are a lot like the Swiss made carving tools, which are popular among professional carvers. I have a few but prefer a straight taper octagon.

It is ludicrous to suggest that 18th century tools like this lack control or induce fatigue. Insulting to suggest that professionals like this did not know what they were doing. For myself I have sometimes carved full time for months at a time using this type of tool. I am reminded of ten years ago when guys were trying to tell Todd Hughes that 18th century workers didn't know how to use planes.

I would be embarrassed to have a Lee Valley, Blue Spruce , or Stanley socket chisel on my bench.

[Steve Voigt]

Warren, I'm glad you appreciate my chisels but I sure can't agree with your last sentence. Those chisels may not be to your taste but they (speaking now of the LV and Blue Spruce) are made with high quality control standards and good materials, and a lot of thought went into their design. The people who run those companies are serious about what they do and unstinting in their support of the woodworking community in general. I don't have any personal experience with the new generation of Stanley, but the old Stanley are solid mass produced tools and generations of folks did great work with them. After all, it's the woodworker, not the tool.

[Steve Voigt]

Brian,


Screen Shot 2016-08-28 at 6.57.10 PM.jpg

Are those…no…they can't be…

(just kidding, I'm a sinner too)

[David farmer]

I guess it's not really a handle shape issue but I find chisels that are set with the handle nearly parallel with the back of the blade much less ergonomic in use.
Just a few degrees off parallel makes a big difference to me. It seems most western chisels are made this way. One thing that keeps me from buying a LV or LN premium chisel is not enough handle angle. Someday I'll get the courage/knowledge to buy one and try heating and bending it up high near the handle, like a Japanese chisel.
WIN_20160828_16_43_20_Pro.jpg

(My first post picture. Can anyone tell me why my pictures are so reduced in size?)

[Brian Holcombe]

Brian,

Attachment 343118

Are those…no…they can't be…

(just kidding, I'm a sinner too)

hah, You are supposed to be distracted by the trees in that Forrest!

[Jim Koepke]

(My first post picture. Can anyone tell me why my pictures are so reduced in size?)

They are displayed as a thumbnail. Click on it and it should become a larger image.

One thing a thread like this does reinforce is people are different. Some will find a particular handle very comfortable where others will want something different. There is no right or wrong about it. It is all personal preference and comfort.

jtk