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Thread: Incra 1000HD setup question

  1. #1
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    Question Incra 1000HD setup question

    I've searched everywhere and can't find this addressed. Maybe I'm just not understanding the manual but in setting up my Incra 1000HD miter I'm being stumped by the process of zeroing the fence scales. The manual goes through a process to zero the fence scale for 90 degree work. The problem is that if I do that and follow the instructions in the manual, it sets the aluminum fence too close to the blade to allow clearance for angled cuts. Am I missing something or is there a way to zero it so that it clears the blade at all angles? If not, I'm guessing you have to use the shop stop to reset your zero mark each time you go back to 90 degrees and then move the aluminum each time you want to cut at an angle. I'm hoping there is an easier solution though. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    You need to adjust it depending on what you want to cut. If you want to cut a 45 you will need to adjust it to support the wood. Kind of a pain but it is what it is.
    Don

  3. #3
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    You have to move the back plate, which means you have to move the tape measure. I don't bother with the measure. (and yes, I did clip a corner once on an angle cut... fortunately it was before my SS)

  4. #4
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    Thanks. I was thinking it's a pain too. Why not design it so you can set a zero point at 90 degrees and also have it clear the blade at an angle. I guess I could force the zero point and use a wood face on the fence to fill the gap at 90 degrees.
    Last edited by Greg Parrish; 08-28-2016 at 8:59 PM.

  5. #5
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    Dang, not good to hear. I still havent set mine up and have a SS so the Incra cant touch the blade!
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  6. #6
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    I'm using a Kreg, but have the extrusion & tape set to 1" from the blade, and then use a wooden sacrificial fence attached. For angled cuts, I mark the first piece to the kerf in the wooden fence, set a stop based on that. (learned that after just one slice in the aluminum extrusion--it's a nice cut though!!)

    earl

  7. #7
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    I had a 1000se and now have a 1000hd. I have never set up the ruler for the reason you describe. Not a big deal for me. They are great miter gauges. You would have the same issue with any miter gauge. I made a couple of improvements on mine this week. I replaced all of the frequently used screws with levers or thumb screws so I don't have to keep reaching for that Allen driver.
    20160828_190945_001_resized.jpg
    Last edited by Cary Falk; 08-28-2016 at 11:56 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cary Falk View Post
    I had a 1000se and now have a 1000hd. I have never set up the ruler for the reason you describe. Not a big deal for me. They are great miter gauges. You would have the same issue with any miter gauge. I made a couple of improvements on mine this week. I replaced all of the frequently used screws with levers or thumb screws so I don't have to keep reaching for that Allen driver.
    20160828_190945_001_resized.jpg
    Thanks. Thats awesome. Mind sharing where you found them and what size they are?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Cary Falk View Post
    I had a 1000se and now have a 1000hd. I have never set up the ruler for the reason you describe. Not a big deal for me. They are great miter gauges. You would have the same issue with any miter gauge. I made a couple of improvements on mine this week. I replaced all of the frequently used screws with levers or thumb screws so I don't have to keep reaching for that Allen driver.
    Man, that's a good idea! Bet my local hardware store has everything I'll need. I know they sell the knurled brass nuts and I bet they have the levers too.

    Thanks Cary.

  10. #10
    Thanks for the knob idea. Been meaning to do that for YEARS.

    As for the ruler; I also never set mine up. I highly recommend an auxiliary fence. You'll get zero clearance on the cut and keep the alum fence way out of the blade path.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Parrish View Post
    Thanks. Thats awesome. Mind sharing where you found them and what size they are?
    The fine adjustment screw for the fence stops is a 1/4"x28. I couldn't find anything in that size so I bought a 1/4"x28 screw 1-3/4" long and cut off the head. I then got a knurled thumb nut threaded for 1/4x20 and just ran a 1/4-28 tap through it. The nut is secured to the threads with locktite. The 2 thumb screws on top that hold the stop are just 1/4x20 1/2" long. All of these I found at ACE hardware.

    The clamping levers are these http://www.mcmaster.com/#clamping-levers/=13xnutz. I specifically wanted metal ones instead of plastic.
    A lot of other places sell plastic ones. Size is 1/4-20 with the 3/4" stud. I had to trim down the stud because 3/4" is too long.

  12. #12
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    One warning... If you have a SawStop, make sure that when you rotate the fence the extruded aluminum doesn't contact the blade. It's bad... Don't ask how I know.


    Mike

  13. #13
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    No need to ask. Unfortunately.

    Cliff

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Stockdale View Post
    One warning... If you have a SawStop, make sure that when you rotate the fence the extruded aluminum doesn't contact the blade. It's bad... Don't ask how I know.


    Mike
    The problem with the world is that intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence.
    Charles Bukowski

  14. #14
    sadly, I've been there too. TWICE!

  15. #15
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    Thanks and no SawStop here. Mine is a 1972 restored PowerMatic 66.

    Will have to look into getting the levers as thats great info. Thanks again.

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