Used DJ-20 for novice

[john schnyderite]

I'm looking for a jointer for my garage shop. Came across a DJ-20 which I've read good things about. What is a fair offer for one with some surface rust but otherwise decent shape. Owner said it hasn't been run in 5 years or so -- obviously I'll test before making an offer, but is there any extra tuning up or things i should consider with a machine that has been sitting like this? I've never owned a jointed so I'm going to be youtubing most of the adjustments i'll need to make to get it humming. Thanks for any input.

[Cary Falk]

Around here they ask $1000-1200. I would never pay that. The G0490 is $1025. I paid $600 for my shop fox W1741. Delta does not exist anymore. I think $600-800 is reasonable.

[Dale Murray]

I recently paid $825 for one that was in excellent condition - no rust, no abuse, a few cosmetic scratched in the paint. That is a $600 machine in my opinion.

[David Kumm]

Check the tables for flat and listen to it run. Look at the motor. I think the Taiwan DJ 20 had a Marathon motor which is a step above a Chinese one. If the tables are good they will likely remain so given the age of the cast iron. 600-800 is a good range, a little higher is OK ( 900 ) given that you can look at it and don't need to deal with shipping. Dave

[Dan Masshardt]

There is one close to me with a shelix helical head. They want $1400 though. If it was $1000 I'd be pretty tempted.

[Phillip Mitchell]

$600-750 is fair for that machine if the tables are flat and everything works as it should. You may have to change the knives out with sharp ones, which will be a good ice breaker that will help you get to know your new jointer. There's tons of info out there about changing jointer knives. I would advise to do your research for a bit before you tackle the job and choose the best approach given what tools/instruments you have available and/or are willing to pay for future reference and use (straight edges, feeler gauges, many a dial indicator, or knife setting jig if you like.)

[Marc Burt]

I agree $650 would be a good price round these parts. Helluva machine for a novice. You're starting out right.

[john schnyderite]

Thanks for the responses. Will check that the tables are flat -- I assume raising the infeed table even with outfeed and use a level will be ok?

I've read some tables can develop a twist -- any good methods to check for this?

Check the tables for flat and listen to it run. Look at the motor. I think the Taiwan DJ 20 had a Marathon motor which is a step above a Chinese one. If the tables are good they will likely remain so given the age of the cast iron. 600-800 is a good range, a little higher is OK ( 900 ) given that you can look at it and don't need to deal with shipping. Dave

[john schnyderite]

I've used jointers before, just never owned/maintained one. I would rather not buy a 6 inch and want to upgrade a couple years later, so I'm trying to buy quality used tools within my budget for the shop.

I agree $650 would be a good price round these parts. Helluva machine for a novice. You're starting out right.

[Dale Murray]

I bought mine for $825 for the widow of a deceased auto engineer - in fantastic shape.
Immediately purchased a shelix head, bearings from McmasterCarr, and a new belt.
Put it all together and have a fantastic machine.

total cost
Jointer $825
Shelix $400 (grizzly 10% off coupon)
Bearings $ 46
Belt $ 11
Total $1282

Less than the comparable Grizzly model and a superior machine, in my opinion.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

Price can vary greatly depending on where you are located. That machine looks very clean except for the rust on the tables.
If it runs good, it would probably go for $800-$900 here.
But if you're making an offer, try $600 and work up from there.

[Matt Day]

You don't need the tables even with each other to check the flatness. Leave them where they are and put a quality straightedge on each table one at a time, preferably not one from the BORG as they likely aren't flat enough. Feeler gauges below below the straightedge will tell the story. If they're twisted, you can detect that with winding sticks (google it).

[john schnyderite]

Thanks. Will make sure to run a level across the length of each table to make sure they are flat front to back. How much gap is acceptable? -- don't have feeler gauges, so can someone reference something I could imagine -- sheet of paper, width of dime, etc.

I don't have winding sticks (my novice is showing)...can I just set a level across the front and back table and see if there is a variation between the tops? Is a twist in the tables a common problem?

You don't need the tables even with each other to check the flatness. Leave them where they are and put a quality straightedge on each table one at a time, preferably not one from the BORG as they likely aren't flat enough. Feeler gauges below below the straightedge will tell the story. If they're twisted, you can detect that with winding sticks (google it).

[glenn bradley]

There is one close to me with a shelix helical head. They want $1400 though. If it was $1000 I'd be pretty tempted.

You need to read about the return on investment interval.

[mark mcfarlane]

A set of feeler gauges will cost $5. You'll want (need) them to set up the jointer after you buy it so go ahead and make the investment. If you keep them lightly oiled they will last 1000 years.

You can use most anything with a uniform thickness and an edge as winding sticks, e.g. these plastic engineer's rulers for $5 should get you in the ballpark: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Engine...e/dp/B00BM3DPA. Some color variation between the two sticks will help you see the offset (marker, tape,... can be used). Youtube winding sticks and you will be a pro in a few minutes.