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Thread: Wooden plane fabrication

  1. #1
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    Wooden plane fabrication

    I just completed fabricating my first wooden plane. This was a test to see if I could made one that would work properly and I used the wood that I had in the shop. For the blade ass'y I used a typical Stanley iron/capiron/lever cap, we'll see if that's any good.

    Anyway, because this plane seems to works very well, I'd like to build a few more. My questions would be:
    - What kind of wood should I use for the body
    - Same question for the handle.
    - Anything special that I should know.
    IMG_7258.jpgIMG_7262.jpg

    Normand

  2. #2
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    Nov 2015
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    nice shavings! looks like it works just like it should!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Normand Leblanc View Post
    I just completed fabricating my first wooden plane. This was a test to see if I could made one that would work properly and I used the wood that I had in the shop. For the blade ass'y I used a typical Stanley iron/capiron/lever cap, we'll see if that's any good.

    Anyway, because this plane seems to works very well, I'd like to build a few more. My questions would be:
    - What kind of wood should I use for the body
    - Same question for the handle.
    - Anything special that I should know.
    IMG_7258.jpgIMG_7262.jpg

    Normand
    Seriously? You show us some perfect endgrain shavings then ask for advice? Keep doing what you are doing.

  4. #4
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    Is that maple you used Normand? It looks great! I love the razee style, but realize I don't own any for some reason (gotta fix that )

    But you have to change out that Robertson screw holding the lever cap.

  5. #5
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    Nice work Normand. It appears you should be telling others how to build a working plane.
    Jim

  6. #6
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    I've used yellow birch. The handle is cherry.

    My concern is that the wood will move with humidity. I'm sure there is some guidelines for this but I don't know where to find them. Someone here must be a pro regarding wooden planes.

  7. #7
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    I suspect there might be a couple folks here that fit the criteria.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Normand Leblanc View Post
    I've used yellow birch. The handle is cherry.

    My concern is that the wood will move with humidity. I'm sure there is some guidelines for this but I don't know where to find them. Someone here must be a pro regarding wooden planes.
    Very nicely done!

    Yellow Birch is also my "goto wood" when I want a reasonably hard/dense wood (not something ridiculously soft like Poplar) to try something out. Like you I'd be concerned about stability, though.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Belair View Post
    But you have to change out that Robertson screw holding the lever cap.
    What is wrong with the Robertson screw?? We Canucks invented them and love them.

    Normand:
    Wonderful! The rest will chime in about the Birch.

    Dave B

  10. #10
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    Oct 2010
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    Normand, allowing for a worse case scenario of 6% change in moisture content.

    No allowances were configured for the laminated construction of your plane.

    The amount of shrinkage calculated is:
    0.0611 inches
    or:
    0 1/16 inches
    (rounded to nearest 1/32 inch)

    The information you entered was:
    Width: 3 inches
    Initial Moisture Content: 10%
    Final Moisture Content: 16%
    The type of lumber you chose was: Flat Sawn

    The Shrinkage Percentage Value used for
    the species you chose (Birch, Yellow) was: 9.5%

    http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calcu...ator=shrinkage

    http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow...d_Movement.htm
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 08-31-2016 at 11:43 PM.

  11. #11
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    Thanks Stewie,

    I have the feeling that I'll be running into trouble. On purpose I've fit the blade very, very tight. The room left (total both sides of the blade) is around 1/64" and it's the humid summer here. When winter comes... We're learning everyday it seems.

  12. #12
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    Mar 2014
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    Normand, I don't know what wood you should make your next plane from, someone else will have to tell you that.

    What I do know is that you should get that prototype out of your house asap, it just doesn't reflect well on you. PM me your address and I'll send you $5 to cover shipping the plane to me.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson View Post
    Normand, allowing for a worse case scenario of 6% change in moisture content.

    [snip]

    Initial Moisture Content: 10%
    Final Moisture Content: 16%
    Stewie is absolutely right. If anything these moisture contents represent more of a nominal range than a worst case, because they correspond to equilibria at ~55% and ~85% relative humidity.

    Given the sort of climate variations you describe I'd budget for a wider range (and more shrink) than that.

    Stewie, out of curiosity are you somewhere near the northern periphery of Australia?
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 09-01-2016 at 12:19 AM. Reason: checked the wood bible

  14. #14
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    How are you holding the plane iron in? I hope it is not being held in by just the "Robertson screw" going into the wood,or the iron fitting snugly against the sides of the escapement. Is your lever cap cracked at the top where the lever pivot is?
    Last edited by george wilson; 09-01-2016 at 9:34 AM.

  15. #15
    I don't think that single screw is a problem. My antique Ulmia has a similar system, though it uses a slotted screw of course.

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