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Thread: Best way to connect cyclone to waste drum?

  1. #1
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    Mar 2016
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    Best way to connect cyclone to waste drum?

    I'm slowly rebuilding my single stage DC into a two stage system after receiving my Super Dust Deputy SDD (as my nanofilter was loading up with fines). The base of the SDD will sit on and be bolted to a plywood platform. I don't have a lot of room. From the bottom of the plywood platform to the base of the (freestanding, roll around) unit the drum will sit on should end up about 22". Nor have I bought a drum yet, waiting to see exactly how much room I have and what kind of ideas I get here. I don't generate all that much sawdust so something in the 20-30 gallon category will have to work for me - as long as I can easily empty the drum frequently. What is the best way to connect the plywood open hole to a fiber drum, or something like that, underneath? And that is easy to disconnect to empty? The hole will be about 6" in diameter. Any ideas? Thanks. Randy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Randy, I used a short length of 6 inch flex hose. Avoid going smaller than the Dust Deputy outlet (6 inch) into your drum as you don't want the fines building up. Oneida makes metal couplings that can be used to mount onto the plywood base of the Deputy. You can use a similar arrangement for the drum lid. Emptying the drum is straightforward as the flex hose compresses enough to get the drum out from under the Deputy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Upstate NY
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    I don't have any advice other than the obvious; maybe Oneida has info on it?

    But be sure it is airtight. A leak will trash your performance.

  4. #4
    I had a bare minimum of room to make my cyclone/bin connection. I attached a short piece of 6" metal tube to my bin top via a stacked piece of 3/4" ply. then connected to my cyclone by a short piece of flex hose. I have very little room get the bin lid up so the drum can slide out. My thought has been to acquire another matching fiber drum and try to take out an inch or two of height out and re-sect the drum back together.

    Definitely you should stay with the outlet size of your cyclone.

    David

    IMG_0936[1].jpgIMG_0937[1].jpgIMG_0938[1].jpg

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Linnabary View Post
    I had a bare minimum of room to make my cyclone/bin connection. I attached a short piece of 6" metal tube to my bin top via a stacked piece of 3/4" ply. then connected to my cyclone by a short piece of flex hose. I have very little room get the bin lid up so the drum can slide out. My thought has been to acquire another matching fiber drum and try to take out an inch or two of height out and re-sect the drum back together.

    Definitely you should stay with the outlet size of your cyclone.

    David

    IMG_0936[1].jpgIMG_0937[1].jpgIMG_0938[1].jpg
    David, good ideas, thanks.

  6. #6
    Randall,

    After posting, it dawned on me that I could flip the lid with the plywood collar side down and re position the metal extending the other way in order to buy a couple more inches of operating room for the flex hose. I guess I'm grateful for being put look more closely at it for a solution, so I have to say thank you.

    David

  7. #7
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    Randy, the Oneida couplers I used are here http://www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD...-E5F28583241B}. All I did to secure them to the plywood on the Dust Deputy base and the drum lid was good quality duct tape (ie not the thin foil kind, the one with the mastic that is very difficult to remove). The only benefit vs David's 6 inch pipe technique is the collar which stops it from sliding down into the hole

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    E TN, near Knoxville
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    My ClearVue cyclone is 6" diameter at the bottom of the cone. I used a short piece of 6" flex hose to connect to the bin. (the flex was supplied with the cyclone.)

    I used a 30 gal metal trash can and lid for the bin. To make the connection, I didn't follow the instructions, as available here: http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/asse...emblySheet.pdf

    Instead, I cut a hole in the lid the size of the OD of a 6" PVC pipe. I cut a short (3/8") ring from a 6" connector and glued it to a 2" piece of 6" PVC pipe to make sort of a flange. I glued the flange into the hole in the metal lid with Alex Plus clear silicone caulk. Connected the flex between the flange and the bottom of the cyclone. There is just enough flex to lift the lid and slide the drum out.

    If using an MDF lid I'd probably do the same thing.

    JKJ

  9. #9
    I've had way to many problems with holes in the flex from the cyclone to the drum from abrasion so I ended up buying an inner tube for a truck tire. It makes it's own air tight seal and no clamps are required.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Regardless of what you ultimately decide to do here, it's imperative that there be a complete seal between the cyclone body and the dust bin. If there is even the tiniest air leak...you'll be filling up your filter with dust and chips.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Bienlein View Post
    I've had way to many problems with holes in the flex from the cyclone to the drum from abrasion so I ended up buying an inner tube for a truck tire. It makes it's own air tight seal and no clamps are required.

    Yikes, there must be different grades of flex duct available.

    What kind of flex did you use? I have read some threads on the ClearVue forum and elsewhere where people asked about using the flexible HVAC duct with a cyclone and the consensus was it wouldn't hold up. I didn't read where anyone tried it and the results.

    The stuff that ClearVue sent (and what I ordered more of) is made of a thick clear flexible material, extremely tough. Their web site describes it as 25 mil Clear PVC, Wire Reinforced Flexible Hose.

    This flex duct is so tough it is a little difficult to work with. To fit it to the 6" SD pipe I have to heat it (gently) with a heat gun and then stretch. I do use spiral clamps but I really don't think it could come off without effort. I've been using it three years and it still looks like new (but dusty!) I can't imagine this stuff being degraded easily by sawdust.

    JKJ

  12. #12
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    Mar 2016
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    Same experience as John, got my 6 inch flex from Wynn Environmental and there is no way that its going to leak unless I take a sharp knife to it

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Haubstadt (Evansville), Indiana
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    I used a short piece of the 6" flex from Wynn. I also bought two flowtite fittings from Menards. http://www.menards.com/main/heating-...84778293380793
    The flowtite fittings I used were plastic, but haven't seen any more plastic ones, but metal will work, just more difficult to drill. I haven't had any problems and the flex hose gives me enough flex to remove the lid and get the drum out.



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    Last edited by William C Rogers; 09-04-2016 at 9:23 AM.
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  14. #14
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    The short piece of flex on my Oneida setup is very heavy...no way will it perforate or get easily damaged. In fact, it's been in service since 2000 and still can hold up the empty drum from the floor.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
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    Mar 2016
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    Exeter, CA
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    i will sure heed that advice as that is what I am trying to stop in the first place, the loading of the filter. Thanks.

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