Coping without a sled

[Thomas Pratt]

I was making a raised panel with a set of stile and rail bits. Cutting the stiles and rails with the grain was no problem, but when it came to coping across the grain the rails were much too narrow to cut safely on the router table. So, I decided to make a wide board (about 6"X8") and run the cross grain bit along the edge so that the rails would fit into it. This resulted in a wide board holding the rail. I could then run it along the fence of the router table. It took a few trials with scrap pieces to get the hang of the arrangement, but if you take several small passes rather than trying to cut the whole thing at once - it was easy and the pieces came out beautiful. Rockler sells a sled for $69.99 but I'll bet this way is just as easy, and I know its cheaper.

[Art Mann]

I have always done exactly the same thing and never had any trouble.

[Jerry Thompson]

I have to have pictures. It is hard for me to understand written explanations. Not your fault I just do not process written explanations very well. Thanks.

[John Lankers]

Same here, I use a(n) MDF square with a 1" dowel inserted in the center for comfort when shaping endgrain - also eliminates tearout.
Edit: I cut rails and stiles in one pass to ensure I get a consistently snug fit.

[Martin Shupe]

John, how do you cut rails and stiles in one pass?

I understand using a sled, I don't understand how you cut rails and stiles in one pass???

A pic or two would be great.

Thanks!

[John Lankers]

John, how do you cut rails and stiles in one pass?

I understand using a sled, I don't understand how you cut rails and stiles in one pass???

A pic or two would be great.

Thanks!

Sorry Martin for not being clear. 1st I cut the tenon on the end of the rail using the push pad to keep the workpiece perpendicular to the fence and to prevent tearout, then I change cutters and cut the groove in the rails and stiles in 1 pass.
I meant to say: a second pass through the cutter could widen the groove or make the tenon thinner resulting in a sloppy fit.

[Chris Padilla]

I don't do well at all without my trusty sled....

[Tom Ewell]

Several ways of doing something is the backbone of woodworking and part of the 'charm'

I started with the push block coping and it does take advantage of bit sets that are easy to dial in from the same reference 'table'.
Went to a fence guided sled for the clamp down feature and easily replaced sacrificial fence attachment (usually have more scraps for that)
Now use a miter slot guided sled which is not dependent on the fence position at all except as a convenient positioning stop, handy when doing some of those full cuts like fitting a concave end to a bull nose.

All work just fine, some are just a little more convenient to the way I work.

[Rick Potter]

I have a couple sleds, but like my home made one best. One thing I like to do with a sled OR with a 12x 12 piece of MDF as a backer board, is to cut my rails from double wide pieces . I cut the cope on the grain sides, then stick the other edges. Then I rip the double wide board into two rails. It is a lot easier doing both rails from one wider piece than two narrow ones.

Another thing that helps is to bury your bit as much into the fence as possible....on both sides. Lessens the gap.

Hope this helps.

PS: The 12 x 12 backer board has a cheap push pad screwed to the middle of it. I can use all four corners that way, and cut it down for new corners several times before making a new one.

[Jim Andrew]

I bought the Rockler sled, it really helped my cuts. Was getting loose fit on at least one corner of a door, now they are all snug.

[Thomas Pratt]

That double wide idea is the best I have heard lately.

[John Lankers]

That double wide idea is the best I have heard lately.

Agreed, excellent idea as long as the stock is wide enough to yield to pieces.

[Charles Lent]

I have done it using a standard miter gauge. You will need a good solid miter gauge that won't change adjustment, with a sacrificial face board mounted well to the miter gauge and extending to the fence. It helps to have 80-120 grit sandpaper glued to the face of this sacrificial board, but not long enough to reach the router bit to help keep your piece from sliding away from the router bit. Then clamp the stock against the face board of the miter gauge making certain that the stock is also against the router table fence, which is set to match the bit bearing position, and run the piece through the router bit. I did this for two years, until I could build a good sled. It works, but a sled is the better way. Wider stock that you can rip into several rails later also helps.


Charley