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Thread: heavy and thick wall compared to light and thin walled bowls

  1. #1

    heavy and thick wall compared to light and thin walled bowls

    Good morning,I hope everyone is having a great labor day..I've been turning quite a few bowls lately..I did become the owner of some very nice burls..When turning ash bowls from a split log I don't mind 3/8th to 1/2in wall thickness..But when I'm turning these burls I hate to make them thin..I really like the super heavy size and think it show's off the grains better..Any opinions on other ways to make them look great I'd like to hear them..I think these are maple burls from what the lady that I got them from said..
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  2. #2
    Nothing wrong with with thick walls in my opinion. But if they're not dry they tend to crack. Maybe stick them in a cardboard box for six months.

  3. #3
    Thank you Bob,they seem to be very dry,they have been cut for a long time..

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    I agree. The people who are buying turnings to use them want beauty and functionality. Nobody told them woodworkers have a competitive obsession with thinness. If the wood is wet, then thin allows the wood to warp more before cracking (I think), but with kiln dried or long-dried wood, it is a design feature to mix in with all of the other factors.
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  5. I think the key design element related to how thick the walls are should be determined by proportionality. The thickness will be dictated to some degree by how large the diameter and how deep the bowl is. Functional bowls should have enough structural integrity that thay are not fragile. As an example, a large bowl used as a dough bowl should not be super thin, as the stresses in the kneading process might crack a large thin walled bowl.

    Proportionality speaks to the eye and skill of the maker, as well as a flowing curve, proportional foot size, beading and other embellishments, all combine to speak to the point of excellence. One can certainly tell a well made bowl from a dog bowl shape, and that combination of proportionality and features is often what sells the bowl, as well as a great finish.
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  6. #6
    Very thick bowls can show off special wood, very thin bowls can show off the skill of the turner. Either can be artistic and well done, functional bowls can also be very well done but thickness in proportion to diameter is more important.
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  7. #7
    Anyone want to critique the bowls in the pic?/I'm pretty new at this and could use some guidance along the way..Thanks!

  8. Quote Originally Posted by Richard Demler View Post
    Anyone want to critique the bowls in the pic?/I'm pretty new at this and could use some guidance along the way..Thanks!
    Any critique needs to be constructive so that you may gain from it. The pics you have in your above post limit the ability to critique because there is no front on shot that shows the shape well. That being said, the second pic reveals some pretty wood, but the thing is way thick in the walls. Actually both are thick, but that is generally part of the learning process, so don't let that discourage you..........just keep them, and reference them when turning your next ones. Also, study pics of bowls you see posted.........especially from some experienced turners like Leo VanDer Loo, John Keeton, Bob Bergstrom & many others. You will begin to see the curves, the proportionality we were speaking to, and styles, like ogee, calabash & others.
    Remember, in a moments time, everything can change!

    Vision - not just seeing what is, but seeing what can be!




  9. #9
    A concern with natural edged bowls is maintaining an even rim thickness, so the walls need to be even thickness all the way down. Your first example looks like it might be thicker toward the bottom. Or it could be caused by sloping of the natural edge of the blank (paired with the thick walls), translating to apparent thickness rather than actual thickness. That stands out to me in the second one.

    Maybe try to minimize that when laying out the blanks in the future, or make those pieces into thinner bowls.

  10. #10
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    There is no one answer--don't get stuck in a rut--Dennis said it all.

  11. #11
    Thank you all for the replies.I learn something new every time I come here.

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    Aside from the practical concerns with wood that isn't quite dry, I'm big on "if you like it, it's right". If you like the walls thick and you're happy with what you've created, then it's perfect. It doesn't hurt to listen to others' opinions, but all of those opinions together are far less important than your own.

    Of course, I say this as someone who turns for fun and rarely to sell. If I was turning for a client, I suppose the customer would have a little more say in deciding whether it's "right".

    Personally, I've turned bowls both fairly thick and thin. My own preference is very dependent on both the type of wood and the shape -- and I never know for sure what I'll do until I'm at the lathe!

    For the two pieces you posted, I think I'd have gone a little thinner on the first (about half or two-thirds as thick). For the other (with the natural edge), I really like the thickness you left it at -- it balances the openness and disorder of the rim visually with a sort of weight and solidity.

    In any case, both are gorgeous pieces you should be proud of.

  13. #13
    I would say that the bowls have good form/shape. They are thicker than what I prefer for my personal ones, but that is my 'style'. Only real difference thickness would make is if you are removing cores from these pieces...

    robo hippy

  14. #14
    I do like these ones a little on the thick side..The one on the left was left that thick because if I would have went any thinner it would have opened up another hole through the side..Thank you for your opinions,they're all appreciated..

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