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Thread: 1/16" cutter for a record 44?

  1. #1

    1/16" cutter for a record 44?

    I am making a jewelry box, and I want the lid to be frame around glass. I'm using a 5x7 pane from a picture frame which is 1.8mm thick. I was thinking of just ploughing a groove and sliding it in, but the smallest groove I can make with my record44 is 1/8"

    Are there smaller cutters available? Either 1/16 or 2mm? I searched around eBay, but I didn't see any. Any other ideas on how to secure the glass in a frame?

    (Other than cutting a rebate. I think it would look sloppy using glaziers)

  2. #2
    I bought a set that included 1/8", and since he makes them himself I am sure he can provide a 1/16". Someone with a better memory than I will respond. I will see if I can locate the vendor in the meantime.
    Last edited by Ray Bohn; 09-06-2016 at 5:55 PM.

  3. #3
    I am pretty sure it was Ray Iles (iles). Not sure he has a personal web site, but his blades are sold by several vendors.
    Do a search for Ray Iles replacement blades and you should find what you need.
    The blades may need some work, but they are small so it doesn't take much time.

  4. #4
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    Will the skate from a Record 044 fit in a 1/16" groove?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Houghton View Post
    Will the skate from a Record 044 fit in a 1/16" groove?
    I hadn't thought about that, and now that I do I doubt it will

    I guess I will need a different solution

  6. #6
    Depending on how deep it is you might be able to scratch it in, or cut the 1/8" groove then glue in a 1/16" filler of a contrasting wood to make it look like it's part of the design. Put clear packing tape on the scrap piece you will use to wedge the filler in place while the glue dries. Plane it flush, then tell everyone you worked hard on that design.

  7. #7
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    How wide a kerf does a handsaw cut? Maybe clamp a couple battens to guide a crosscut saw to make the groove? Would need to set up a depth stop, and a way to keep the cut level....

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Kasier View Post
    I am making a jewelry box, and I want the lid to be frame around glass. I'm using a 5x7 pane from a picture frame which is 1.8mm thick. I was thinking of just ploughing a groove and sliding it in, but the smallest groove I can make with my record44 is 1/8"
    Could you plow it to 1/8" and insert matching shims of appropriate thickness behind the glass? The difference between the glass and a 1/8" groove is 1.4 mm, so it should be possible to adequately hide the resulting seams since they would be so close to the back glass<->frame boundary. The advantage of doing that rather than a rabbet is that you can avoid having visible seams along the bottom perimeter of the lid that show when it's open.
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 09-06-2016 at 9:50 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    How wide a kerf does a handsaw cut? Maybe clamp a couple battens to guide a crosscut saw to make the groove? Would need to set up a depth stop, and a way to keep the cut level....
    Depends on the saw, but for the most part "not wide enough". 1.8 mm is 71 mils. A typical tenon saw might leave a 30-35 mil kerf (including set). Also I'd be a bit concerned about edge quality even if you score before cutting.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chase View Post
    Depends on the saw, but for the most part "not wide enough". 1.8 mm is 71 mils. A typical tenon saw might leave a 30-35 mil kerf (including set). Also I'd be a bit concerned about edge quality even if you score before cutting.
    It occurs to me that what you want here may be a slightly-wider-than-normal kerfing plane (though that's a lot of work and/or money for a one-shot tool).

  11. #11
    Thanks everyone. I thought about a saw, but I don't know how clean that will look. I am going to look into clear acrylic. Maybe I can get that at a proper thickness

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Kasier View Post
    Thanks everyone. I thought about a saw, but I don't know how clean that will look. I am going to look into clear acrylic. Maybe I can get that at a proper thickness
    Acrylic is significantly less scratch-resistant than glass.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Kasier View Post
    Thanks everyone. I thought about a saw, but I don't know how clean that will look. I am going to look into clear acrylic. Maybe I can get that at a proper thickness
    How about two layers of glass?

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  14. #14
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    One thing to keep in mind. Finishing with a captured panel. without getting finish on the panel. can be a pain in the neck.

    The acrylic panel in this clock is held in with saw kerfs on the sides, cleaned up with sandpaper:

    clock3.jpg
    (clock made with drill, backsaw and sandpaper)

    Veritas has a 1/16 blade for their router plane, there also might be stringing tools that do 1/16.

  15. #15
    Why not grind down a larger cutter?

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