[OP]
Member
After much deliberation, I got the Shapton 1000, 5000, and 12000 ceramic waterstones. I guess I got the Japanese versions since there's no English writing anywhere. I know that you have to soak some waterstones and others you just splash like an oilstone. What's the recommendation for these three?
Thanks,
Jason
Member
Couple, 5min, soak
Contributor
I have the exact same set and have never done anything but spritz with water b/c I don't have a sink in the shop. A short soak can't hurt though.
Member
I think the 1000 likes a little bit of a soak. Put it in a plastic tub for a bath while you are flattening the others.
Enjoy the sharpness! Getting some shaptons allowed me to take sharpening out of the picture and focus on other things. Wish I could be an artful sharpener, but I'm not really; a cheap honing guide and a basic set of shaptons produce blazing sharpness for me, so I'm not worried!
Member
All Shaptons are resin-based stones, meaning the abrasive is held together by a plastic resin of some sort.Originally Posted by Jason Lester
As such they're mostly nonporous and don't need a lot of soaking. Shapton says they can all be used as "splash and go" stones. Stu of TfJ thinks (and I agree) that the 5K and above benefit from brief soaking. Even though the stone is mostly nonporous it seems that the surface layer can absorb a small amount of water, and that helps with loading.
One thing you absolutely should not do is leave them in water. Shapton specifies a maximum immersion time of 20 min IIRC, though I never go higher than a few min. Shapton warns that the stone will soften and you'll need to remove the surface layer if it's left in water too long.
Contributor
Splash and go.
Regards from Perth
Derek
[OP]
Member
Thanks guys. I've been using the abrasive films and looking forward to an easier setup.
Member
Hmm, abrasive films are pretty hard to beat for "easy". Not very cost-effective though.
[OP]
Member
Maybe easy wasn't the right term. The problems I had with the film were: catching an edge and ripping it, spray adhesive mess, and expense (like you mentioned.)
Member
Catching and ripping is always a potential issue with films. The only things you can really do about that are to always start with a couple "pull" strokes to knock off anything that might tear the film, and use a light touch.
w.r.t. spray adhesive mess, there are two ways around that:
- Use PSA-backed films. They cost a few cents more per sheet, but they completely eliminate that issue.
- Don't use adhesives at all. When I use non-PSA sheets I stick them to the glass with a very thin film of light oil. Some people use water, but that doesn't last as long. I've found that non-PSA sheets held down by a film of oil sit flatter than PSA sheets (and much better than ones stuck down with spray adhesive)
Moderator
I have 1000 and 8000. Neither need soaking. Light spritz works.
Contributor
Let me know how well they work, I'm deciding between diamond stones or waterstones, I've got a pretty sad set up of misc oil stones and sandpaper. I actually get them all pretty sharp but I really need a nice set of something, that and it's pretty irritating to rip a fresh sheet of paper.... Are these shapton cheaper than diamond stones?
Contributor
Hopefully this doesn't stray too far off of the original intent of this thread.
One thing to remember is diamond stones do not equal waterstones do not equal oilstones do not equal sandpaper.
Each sharpening media has its own advantages and disadvantages. It appears the widest variations are in the realm of waterstones. With soak or spritz, fast wear vs fast cut and how often one has to flatten them and what are the various options on the media binder. Some will likely wince when learning my waterstones are mostly from Norton. They may not be the greatest option, but what the heck, my blades can be brought to a level of sharpness that works for me. They are left soaking for days, even weeks at a time.
My diamond stones do not seem to be able to handle the same volume of sharpening through put as my water or oil stones. It may be my use of diamond stones is my least used method. Diamond stones have pretty much been relegated to use in the kitchen for a quick tune up of the cutlery. Maybe my hand is a bit heavy on the diamond stones. They do not seem to cut fast after a lot of use.
My waterstones seem to be the fastest working for edge maintenance. They can be a bit on the messy side. My shop doesn't have running water. An old milk jug full of water, a spray bottle a plastic shoe box and an automotive floor mat on a dedicated work station makes for a great set up for quick blade work.
Oilstones are less messy than waterstones. Mine are on a bench across the shop from the waterstones. My shop doesn't have a heating system. In the winter water often freezes in the shop. This got me to using my oilstones during the cold months. Oilstones are not as fast cutting as waterstones nor are they available in as fine of a grit. They are also not as subject to wear as are waterstones. David Weaver once mentioned a jasper stone used in the sharpening process. I have a couple of them and they do produce a nice polish (burnish?) on a bevel.
Sandpaper starts cheap, but then the cost starts eating into one's wallet. My main use now for sandpaper is a long strip of 320 grit on a hunk of granite for cleaning up messed up blades. If one wants to source the finer grits locally check with automotive supply shops. Some carry finer grits, 1000 - 2000, for auto painters and detailers.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Member
Do they need to be flattened frequently like waterstones?
Moderator
Flattened, yes, but a little less frequently than other water stones.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote