Close, but not there

[Mike Wenzloff]

I posted this in a couple other forums I frequent and thought I would share my failure here as well

Well, I made a new handle for my Disston D-8 this weekend. Unfortunately one must make sure to pick the proper bit when cutting holes for the saw nuts.

In these messy pics (the mess is the bench <G>), one can spot three different bits. Those were the proper bits. For whatever reason, I picked up a fourth one that I had out when seeing what sizes I needed and didn't put back the wrong-sized one.

Went and drilled the wrong size for the back saw nuts. Oops. So, when I recover from this--a D-8 handle takes a bit of work--I'll remake it. Chalk it up to live and learn.

The main notable thing about a D-8 handle is the kerf in the handle to receive the saw blade needs to match the radius (7") of the end of the blade. And there are actually two different cuts to make as can be made out in the last picture.

This is the main reason that it is difficult. That and it is a closed top, meaning the slot does not come up through the top of the handle. I took a lot of care and did pretty good. Though I did pare off the tip at the top of the handle and a little of the slot can be seen in the first picture.







It was a fun experience, and the blade is cleaned and the teeth have been touched up. I'll use this handle as a pattern for the new one. The original was missing the entire bottom portion, so now I have a full pattern.

Mike

[Bruce Page]

Mike, that is beautiful work. Which holes are oversized, the counter-bore or the through hole itself? After that much work, there’s got to be a work around!

[Andrew Ault]

Hey Mike,

Could you epoxy some brass rod in the oversized holes (redrilling first as required) and then drill for the correct size?

- Andy

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Bruce, Thanks for the compliment.

I didn't take pics of the other side, but it is the counterbore for the saw nut heads. Part of the issue also was I generally do not drill the through holes first, as I did here. But having never made a D-8 handle before and the blade needing to fit tight inside, as soon in the process as I could I drilled them. I figured if the blade/holes were not right, no sense in shaping the handle.

The proper order is to drill the larger head size counterbore, then the counterbore for the bolt and then the through hole. That way one can keep bits centered. Of course, ya still gotta use the right size bit!

It's only wood. I'll cut this one in half and use it for a pattern. The original had most of the bottom broke off. This will give me a complete pattern.

I took pics of the cleaning (10 pics), making the handle (about 70 pics), as well as sharpening (12-15 pics) and was going to post that. This time I'll skip the pics. It will take a couple hours to make a new one--whereas with taking the pictures took several.

The next will be out of Bubinga, as opposed to pseudo-Mahagony.

Take care, Mike

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Andy, probably could dowel it and redrill. But I would know it was bunged up. It's only wood. And it kept me in the shop and out of trouble.

So there's always next weekend.

Mike

[Dan Moening]

...could dowel it and redrill. But I would know it was bunged up.

You know, Mike, I'm the same way. I would know every time I picked up that saw it was there. Thinking about it would probably even effect my ability to use the saw. :crazy:

That'll be a beauty when you're finished. Sure looks like a lot of blade left on that saw.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Dan,

Considering the graduated teeth are so even and it measures out pretty good at the heel, I don't think it was used/sharpened much.

And seeing how we're woodworkers, and it is just a chunk of wood and a little time, what the heck. And now that I've made one, I won't fret so much about cutting in the blade kerf. Pretty easy.

Mike

[Dan Moening]

I won't fret so much about cutting in the blade kerf

I was going to ask how you did that tricky bit of work, but I'm afraid the answer might not befit this forum.

[Bob Noles]

Good gosh mike..... that is a super nice looking handle. You just spew talent everywhere I look. I did not even know a human could make one that nice Too bad about the errors, but they do happen. If'n I end up with some of those saws we discussed, at least now I know where to turn for handle replacement


Seriously... that is beautiful work my friend.... very beautiful!

[Mike Wenzloff]

Thank you much, Bob!

Here's a pic and a link to another one I did in June in Sycamore.



http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/hand...dle/index.html

Mike

[Roger Bell]

Nice work. Great to see the classic style in renaissance.

[Vince Sandy]

Hey Mike, that handle looks great. I've never made a cover-top handle although I do have several saws that have handles with the same type of damage (broken bottoms; seems to be a weak point). Since Dan didn't ask, I will: how do you cut the kerf to accept the blade? I envision a really thin-kerf circular saw blade even though that wouldn't be in the neander fashion.

Thanks, Vince

[Mike Wenzloff]

...Snip...
Since Dan didn't ask, I will: how do you cut the kerf to accept the blade? I envision a really thin-kerf circular saw blade even though that wouldn't be in the neander fashion.
Thanks, Vince

Thanks for the compliment Vince.

Dan asked. I replied off the forum. In short, yes a *really* thin kerf circular saw blade.

Neander or not, that's how Disston made them. Quite evident when I handsawed the original handle in half for use as a template. It is, on this D-8, a 7" radius, or is that diameter? I always get 'em confused. Guess it would be a 3.5" radius/7" diameter.

Mike

[Glenn Crocker]

Where do yall find a circular saw blade with both that diameter and that thin kerf?

[Mike Wenzloff]

I hand ground down the blade using a 7 1/4" circular saw blade to start with. Carbide teeth. Not something I want to do again, but I didn't want to make a trip to the Borg to buy a different blade. Mounted in a table saw.

And the blade is/was only good for one, maybe two saw handles.

You can also find 7" blades, though the ones I found the blade itself is too thick. Unless you do what I have done in the past.

Before doing it this way, I used a full kerf 7" blade, cut the kerf slightly off-center and used essentially a piece of veneer glued in the "off" side to recenter the blade and make up for the thick kerf.

I have a blade I am going to have hollow ground and the teeth ground flush at a local machine shop, originally made for metal cutting that is 7". I'll then slightly set the teeth to provide clearance.

I've got a half-dozen more D-8s to make new handles for.

Mike