I was wrong, I likey tracksaw

[Van Huskey]

I have the full size Grizzly and love it, but you are referring to the new "mini" version.

I missed that he was referring to the Mini version, not a whole low of reviews on it.

[Ken Kortge]

Anyone have one of these?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mini...per-Kit/T27444

I am looking to enter the track saw market on the less expensive end. The only review on the website doesn't seem great.

Funny, you can't find any used track saws on CL. I guess that's a good sign?

Take a look at Eurekazone.com and their track saw products. If you already have a circular saw, for another $180 (+ shipping) you can have a VERY nice 54" track with clamps and saw base (that you easily mount to the circular saw - watch the how-to video on the site). Provides you with safe accurate cuts with clean edges on BOTH sides of the kerf with a typical carbide tooth circular saw blade. Even with base installed saw can be used on or off track. Each saw & blade custom cuts the low cost ($4.50 & $7.50) base insert and track anti-chip edge providing zero-clearance on both sides of cut. Heavy duty I-beam like tracks are made in the US, not China. The founder Dino supposedly once used them as ramps for a little car (I won't try that with my truck though).

I am NOT associated with Eurekazone. Just a very happy customer that discovered their track system after having given up on cutting - and thus using - plywood after trying it on a table saw, using homemade straight edge, jig saw, and even a hand saw. It litterally saved my woodworking hobby. I've used their tracks, their square, and their repeaters. All work as advertized. I recently bought their universal edge guide and router system too, but have not had a chance to use them yet. I'm a little nervous about the edge guide since it is really off-track - blood pressure rising - but others use it and love it, so I'll see how it works.

Oh, some of the components are also available on Amazon.com - but not all!!

EZ Track System Intro Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-i3df2FfDgw
EZ Base Intro Video (shows clean cuts): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSGkG17sNE8
EZ Base Installation Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvmeqS90JtE
Universal Edge Guide - that works with EZ base: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qYezPjhLqs

[Cary Falk]

I bought a DeWalt and a short track for $310. I am very happy with it. I don't use it all the time but makes a lot of jobs easier.

[Jim Dwight]

I also have and like a DeWalt. The only things I see "wrong" with the little Grizzly are the short tracks and limited depth of cut. It doesn't seem to be aimed at the same market. Probably not real useful to break down sheet goods but could be handy for smaller projects. The ability to cut metal and masonary with a track saw is something I wouldn't try with my DeWalt.

[Van Huskey]

Since this has become a general tracksaw thread I was condering if anyone has seen the new Festool HK 85 which can use a carbide insert trenching (dado) head. While not for me price wise it does seem to cover much of the last remaining allure of a RAS for me.

https://www.festool.com/Products/Pag...EB-Plus-FSK420

https://www.festool.com/Products/Acc...HK85-130x16-25

While designed for the timber framing industry set up on a table with a flip down track it could give some easy dados and while limited in depth and width it still would cover most of my needs in that area. The question is will it even come to NA, NAINA is the bane of many Festoolians on this side of he Atlantic.

[lowell holmes]

When I set up my saw, they had no tracksaws. A piece of plywood with a wood strip down the side served as my rip guide.

Place a 3/4X2 strip down the side of the guide, cut the gage line with your saw, and you will have a good rip guide.

I have a 4' long one as well that is handy.

[Jim Becker]

Lowell, that method still absolutely works and clearly is economical. The one advantage, however, of the "track saws" is that the track itself stabilizes the saw so it cannot inadvertently stray from the guide. The better ones also help support the wood fibers right to the blade for a cleaner cut. "Whatever works" for the individual woodworker is the way to go!

[Bob Falk]

I bought a Makita track saw last year and I was a little unsure if it would be worth the expense. I have to say, I have found a lot of use for it to break down plywood and other sheathing materials for ongoing remodeling at our home....extremely useful and much easier than trying to move a 4x8 sheet to the table saw. I really think it is more accurate to cut larger pieces of plywood with a track saw than a table saw. By far the best purchase I have made in woodworking tools in the last few years.

[Mike Cutler]

I find the track saw a pretty nice compliment to the rest of the machinery. For a person working alone it makes certain tasks a lot easier, quicker, and safer, to accomplish.

[lowell holmes]

Jim,
I would like a track saw. I just don't use full sheets of plywood anymore. I would have one if I had the need.

The 48" jig is handy for cutting door bottoms as well. I try to avoid lifting solid doors, so it doesn't get the use it has in the past.


I do have a two piece aluminum rip guide that was a forerunner to the home made, but I don't like the joining mechanism of the two pieces.

[Jim Dwight]

One of the disadvantages of the circular saw with guide method is that the edge of the base is rarely parallel to the blade. Track saws are set up with a small amount of toe out (back of blade a little further from the wood than front) like I set my table saw fence. If you mess with your circular saw to get it parallel or a slight amount toed out, it should help you not have to fight the saw to keep it against the guide. I think the bearings are also different, however. The bearings of my Milwaukee do not seem to be good enough to get the smooth cut I get with my DeWalt track saw regardless of how well it is guided and how fine toothed a blade I use.

But for cruder cuts, a guided circular saw certainly works.

[Jim Becker]

Jim,
I would like a track saw. I just don't use full sheets of plywood anymore.

Interestingly, I've never used my track saw to cut down a sheet of plywood. Most of its use has been either for home improvement tasks and for cuts in the shop that (inadvertently) had to be made after something was assembled. Track saws certainly excel at cutting down sheet goods and with a nice layer of foam insulation, you can even do that on your dining room table. (I have a friend who has done just that, believe it or not) But they are very versatile for so many things. I also use the track with a router for grooves and dados, particularly for long narrow things where the groove needs to cross the short dimension, such as for shelving.

[Van Huskey]

When you get tired of working, let the saw do the work for you...

[lowell holmes]

One of the disadvantages of the circular saw with guide method is that the edge of the base is rarely parallel to the blade. Track saws are set up with a small amount of toe out (back of blade a little further from the wood than front) like I set my table saw fence. If you mess with your circular saw to get it parallel or a slight amount toed out, it should help you not have to fight the saw to keep it against the guide. I think the bearings are also different, however. The bearings of my Milwaukee do not seem to be good enough to get the smooth cut I get with my DeWalt track saw regardless of how well it is guided and how fine toothed a blade I use.

But for cruder cuts, a guided circular saw certainly works.

I certainly don't suggest a guide is equal to a track saw. However, for the person that occasionally cuts sheet goods, it is a good substitute.

If you make your guide by fastening the guide strip to the plywood portion of the jig and then cut the plywood to the jig with the circular saw (with carbide tip blade), you will get a guide that is straight, square, and accurate. There were no track saws available when I made mine. You absolutely have to use a carbide tooth blade in the circular saw.

If I were cutting plywood today, I would have a track saw. As I commented earlier, I have a jig for cutting door bottoms that gives absolutely straight bottoms with the ability bevel the door bottom as is proper for entrance doors.

My circular saw is a 50 year old Dewalt 6" saw with a 40 tooth carbide tipped blade in it. There is no bearing run out and the cuts are splinter free. The base is absolutey parallel to the blade.
Cheap plastic body circular saws are a different animal than my circulars saws. Just for the record I also have a quality 10" table saw and for that matter a radial arm saw (my dad's 1960's vintage).
I really don't use the radial arm saw any more.

[lowell holmes]

Interestingly, I've never used my track saw to cut down a sheet of plywood. Most of its use has been either for home improvement tasks and for cuts in the shop that (inadvertently) had to be made after something was assembled. Track saws certainly excel at cutting down sheet goods and with a nice layer of foam insulation, you can even do that on your dining room table. (I have a friend who has done just that, believe it or not) But they are very versatile for so many things. I also use the track with a router for grooves and dados, particularly for long narrow things where the groove needs to cross the short dimension, such as for shelving.

If I had the need, I certainly would have a track saw. I just don't have the need or space for that matter to use one. I would think they need to be kept out on a table to be used. It is a "toy" I would enjoy having. I'm getting too old and tired to horse 4X8 sheets of 3/4" plywood around anymore. I still have long bed pickup with a camper shell and a plastic plywood sheet carrier handle, but I would really have to need it to do it. If you live long enough you will be there too.