14" x4" walnut bowl

[Bob Bergstrom]

This walnut has beautiful brown color and a well centered grain pattern. It measures 14" wide and 4" deep. With the closed rim it was quite challenging to cut the inside cleanly. The wood came from near Valparaiso Indiana. It is finished with 2 coats of Formby's gloss oil with a lacquer top coat.IMG_5744.jpgIMG_8187.jpg

[Robert Hayward]

Extremely well done ! Plus a beautiful piece of wood. Tell us a little about the bowl. Where did you get the wood ? The finish, I am envious of that pretty finish, tell us what and how.

[Curtis Myers]

My wife really likes Walnut. I've come to like it also. Very nice job.

[Bob Bergstrom]

This is one of 13 rough outs I processed about 3 months ago. They were dried in an upright freezer converted into a kiln. They were under 10% in about 5 weeks. The orientation of this bowl would be with the bark side above the rim and the pith below the foot. The outside was pretty straight forward pull and push cuts plus shear cutting. The inside of the rim was cut with a 1/2" spindle gouge with a 60 degree nose wings ground back. The nose grind was used the remove waste wood and shape the curve. First with a push cut and then shear cutting pull cut slightly behind the nose of the gouge. The tool rest is placed close as possible running parallel to the ways. The handle of the gouge is about a 30 degree angle below center. The spindle gouge lacks the high wings that can catch and allows more of a shearing cut. The lower curve required a lot of quick hip movement and bringing the gouge handle around quickly. The curve is almost a 90 degree turn in about 1" of space. Traditional sanding followed by two applications of oil. That was steel wooled after curing. This gives the walnut a deep chocolate color. Two coats of Mohawk gloss cat lacquer.

[Allan Ferguson]

Very very pretty bowl.great design and work. That inside curve is a good place to use hollowing tools. Really nice bowl.

[Mike Goetzke]

Very nice Bob. I also like the rim beading and the foot design you used. Hopefully I'll get there someday.

Mike

[David Delo]

Very nice as always Bob. Really like the bead on the rim.

[mike ash]

Great job Bob! You made this piece of wood proud!

[daryl moses]

Very nice piece. Great job on the finish!!
That must of been a pretty large tree.

[Pat Scott]

"With the closed rim it was quite challenging to cut the inside cleanly."

Not just cut it cleanly, but sand it too. Can you describe your "traditional sanding" method a little more? I don't see any sanding scratches on the inside or outside. Well done.

[Bob Bergstrom]

"With the closed rim it was quite challenging to cut the inside cleanly."

Not just cut it cleanly, but sand it too. Can you describet your "traditional sanding" method a little more? I don't see any sanding scratches on the inside or outside. Well done.

Pat
first of all this was a very friendly piece of walnut. It cut very well. Tear out was minimal which is not always the case. I make my own mandrels so I have quite a few to use. For the rougher grits (80-150) I used a 2 3/8" mandrel and a 3 3/8" mandrel with Vince's wonderful blue disks. Both mandrels are 2" have been thinned and the glue is Goop. The mandrel is a rol-loc variety glued to a fairly firm but flexible 3/8" piece of yoga matting. The result is a pad that is flat and firm in the center and firm but flexible at the edge. The 2" was used under the rim and the side walls. The 3" sanded the interior bottom. The firmness helps prevent wash boarding yet it flexes as it approaches the wall. Some was sanded with the lathe running and some rotating the bowl by hand. After 150 the pads are softer. Anything goes when trying to get rid of end grain promblems. I use a Milwaukee close quarter drill. The softer pads are made from Maquiers kneeling pad and various stadium seat pads.

[Roger Chandler]

That is a pretty piece of work, Bob! Are you referring to a tung oil product with the Formby's gloss oil? Does it soak in pretty good before setting up? What is the average drying time for a coat of that finish?

I am getting low on a couple of finishes I have, and will need to replace fairly soon. I am open to trying new finishes, especially when they look as good as what you have here, realizing the additiion of the lacquer as well.

Nicely done....has similarities to a calabash form, but just a bit different from them as well.

[Bob Bergstrom]

That is a pretty piece of work, Bob! Are you referring to a tung oil product with the Formby's gloss oil? Does it soak in pretty good before setting up? What is the average drying time for a coat of that finish?

I am getting low on a couple of finishes I have, and will need to replace fairly soon. I am open to trying new finishes, especially when they look as good as what you have here, realizing the additiion of the lacquer as well.

Nicely done....has similarities to a calabash form, but just a bit different from them as well.

Roger I've also envied your work. Beaufuly done in form and finish. Yes It's Formby's Tung Oil, but there isn't any tung oil in it. It is more of a wiping varnish. When the can is new it is somewhat watery. After 1/2 is gone it will thicken some in the can. It will dry in 2 to 4 hours depending on temp and humidity. It will become glossy on second coat. I use #0000 steel wool to smooth it out before spraying. It becomes a sanding sealer and provides a smooth surface for spraying.

[Jeramie Johnson]

That is a wonderful and stunning piece. Great execution and thank you for sharing your technique.