1953 delta unisaw help in deciding if its a good deal

[Cary Falk]

The beauty of a riving knife is that is rises and falls with the blade so it never has to be removed like a splitter for non through cuts. I had a Beisemeyer snap in splitter on my UNI before I sold it. I would take it out to get it out of the way when I moved the blade under the table and would forget to put it back. The riving knife is much more convenient.

[David Kumm]

Google riving knife but it is a piece of thin metal, equal in thickness to plate on blade but less than kerf that keeps the stock from closing up after the cut if the board has internal tension. You can make a throat plate and put an MJ splitter in that works just as well, even better than an incorrectly sized knife. It should not be a deal breaker, there are modifications that are easy and effective. Dave

[manuel ramon]

Thanks matt

[Mike Henderson]

Whether to buy the saw depends on what your objectives are. If you just want the challenge of restoring an old saw, go for it.

But if you want a saw to use for woodworking, I'd suggest you look for a more modern saw. Many of those old Unisaws had very low HP motors, and as Mike H pointed out, that saw does not have a riving knife, which is a good safety device. The problem with restoring an old saw like that is when you finish restoring it, what you have is an old saw.

Like many tools, the engineers and manufacturers have made advances in the tools. Go modern if you plan to use it for woodworking.

Mike

[Matt Day]

Let's not turn this into a riving knife or saw stop argument. As long as Manuel researches and understands what they are its his call.

[John TenEyck]

A bullet motor like the one on that saw has an amazing amount of torque. My friend has a 1950 Unisaw with a 1 HP bullet motor and has no trouble ripping 2" white oak. That motor would not be a deal breaker for me, nor would the lack of a riving knife. Put the original splitter and guard on it, or a modern aftermarket one like a Shark guard, and a new fence like maybe a Vega, and that saw will serve you well - assuming the internals are all good. But plan on putting new arbor bearings and motor bearings into it before using it. All in you're looking at maybe $800, as someone else mentionsed, but you'll have a better saw than anything new you can buy for that.

John

[manuel ramon]

Well mike ,i see what your saying .good point ther and im looking for one just as a hobby just started wood working a year ago and i just build stuff for the house and things like that its not a career for me.if i needed it for work then your right i would be looking for modern

[manuel ramon]

John ,thats exactly what i plan on doing is the bearings .as far as the motor yes your right thats what i been reading. The motors are perfect for what im using it for. The on3 i have now is 50 table saw and its perfect but i want a unisaw just cuz i like the look of old machines i guess .and for 150 for a 1953 original delta unisaw single phase minus the egg cover is awsome

[manuel ramon]

Matt do you own a unisaw.

[John T Barker]

Hellow again hope im in the right spot here but im going to look at a 1953 delta unisaw single phase and it has a 220 plug is what im told and he says it runs but has a squel around the blade area while turning off so ill post my pics and ask for everyones input whats it actually worth my last question is the motor is it that motor everyone talking about the repulsion is something like that

I've got one that is a year or two older but with a Biesmeyer 48"? It needs new bearings but I've had it for 20+ years so that is to be expected. I'd say go for it. Yes, it needs rehab but that's a great way to learn all about the tool. That fence will work fine and in quite a few years in professional shops and more in my own I've never seen or needed a splitter. Good technique works fine.

[Terry Therneau]

I use a 1948 Unisaw, it is a very nice machine. Some comments.
1. Trunions: once in a while someone will manage to break the internal raise/tilt mechanism. It is not easy to do, but fools are ingenuous. For instance let it fill so full of sawdust that it gums everything up, and then apply more and more muscle to turn the handwheels. Eventually a cog will break in the raising gear. This is unlikely, but a deal killer if present. I don't know any way to check other than laying on the ground and putting your head in the dust door. Even better is to take off the top.

2. A repulsion-induction motor is more expensive to make but pulls less amps when it starts up, so are a plus for a shop that is marginal for electrical power. That was once common for home shops; Delta eventually stopped making that style motor. My unisaw is 1HP on the plate and I have to work really hard to stall it, 1.5" maple or oak is not a problem. This is a motor that can do 1 HP continuously; modern motors are branded with the max HP, which is what they generate just as they stall out. A modern "2 HP" is likely closer to 1 HP continuous duty. (Different vendors stretch the truth by different amounts, though).

3. The grease in a bearing lasts for about 20 years. This is true for an unused bearing on the shelf as well as one that is in use. Plan on changing the bearings. It will cost you some time, but only $20 or so for the bearings. (Where to buy them is a "sticky" topic on the owwm.org site, always near the top.)

4. The Jetlock fence on the saw is not half bad when clean and adjusted, I used one for several years. But the rust I see on the rails will cause issues. Lots of people upgrade to a Unifence, Beismeier, Vega, super-cool fence, etc, etc.

5. I use something much like the MJ splitter, and it works well. This provides a major upgrade in safety. Don't skip it.

Terry Therneau

[manuel ramon]

Kool thanks .yeah it's a perfect way to learn. Like the say( let the good times roll)

[David Kumm]

Ramon, for reference, the woodworking- machine guys I've talked to put the old Unisaw somewhere between the SS PCS and ICS. I've not torn one down but that looks about right. I'm not a Uni fan as I'd rather spend my rehab time with an industrial machine but I would argue that other than the flash sensing technology there have been few improvements in modern woodworking machines. The ability to cost reduce and still have a machine that is acceptable is the biggest difference. Rehabbing old machines doesn't make much economic sense if you just want to cut wood but is a way to get " better than new and learn what makes a good machine. Depends on your interest but modern isn't better unless really high end and I could still argue that. Here is a $500 saw with about another $500 in it. Granted, I have a similar Robinson that I have more like $4000 in but I still consider it a bargain. DSCN2883.jpg Whitney slider. The next size up from your Uni is this Rockwell 12. Has a 60" sliding table which I removed and added a Beisemeyer fence. Single phase with scoring. I bought used 20 years ago and have about 2K in it. DSCN2209.jpgDSCN2210.jpg It was plug and play. Built about twice as heavy as the Uni and less than half of the Whitney but both have done lots of woodworking. Dave

[manuel ramon]

terry thats right im going to ask him to remove the top so i could check them teeth and all that good stuff .ive read on sites that its a pita to remove the bearings unless you know what your doing . i have no idea what im doing yet so im thinking a trip to the machine shop probably be faster than trying to do it myself.for sure i have the paint,cleaning, rubbing,polishing down to an art.

[manuel ramon]

Those are some really nice units you hqve ther David. Wow awsome ,nice work on the restoration part.i hope if i buy mine they look as nice as the ones you own .that blue one really stands out. i like that dark blue ,its very industrial looking .they both look nice great job......