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Thread: Etching Powdercoated Stainless cups

  1. #1

    Etching Powdercoated Stainless cups

    I am having issues with etching Powdercoated cups. It's not coming clean with the settings I am using. The practice pieces I used worked well with 18 power, 100speed and 800 DPI, but the actual cups are not working right! Suggestions or help please?!?! �� I have a 100W CamFive

  2. #2
    I think you need to increase your power and decrease your speed. It is not unusual to run two passes on powder coated items. Be sure to use a good cleaner like Zep or an orange cleaner to remove residue. There is always residue to be cleaned.

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-32-oz...0532/202671716
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  3. #3
    Thanks Mike. I have tested about 20 different times and still haven't found the right combo. At a lower DPI, high power(70), it's shiny but text not clean/crisp. At a higher Dpi of 800, it is a darker/not shiny, almost as if it's not taking it all off.

  4. #4
    Have you tried cleaning the residue? I find that it is always necessary.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  5. #5
    I have tried Goo Gone, but it was the automotive kind. Wonder if it's different. Have tried denatured alcohol

  6. #6
    I've been engraving powdercoated Hydroflasks for a couple of years now.

    First of all, goo gets left behind after the first pass, period. I haven't found a 'reasonable' way around this. You WILL have to run at least ONE second cleanup pass, and sometimes a third. I've tried circumventing this issue by going very slow and upping the lines per inch to 1000. Sometimes I'll get a good burn on the first try, usually not. But the time it takes one pass at this rate is more than two 500 LPI passes at a more reasonable speed.

    Certain colors engrave better. As to Hydroflasks, black and blue seem to be the easiest. Red isn't bad. White, you'll just have to settle for a consistent gray. Orange and purple are tough. And then there's the batches where it seems they coated them 4 or 5 times as it's nearly 1/32" thick. 3 passes minimum on those.

    This is all with my 40 watt Synrad LS900. 80 or more watts may make 2nd passes better, but I'd still wager clean one-pass runs are only going to happen occasionally...

    If your rotary is a chuck-style, subsequent runs should be no problem. But a hotdog turner rotary, I don't know how reliable they are as to repeatability, but if they're not, it would be risky with someone elses parts.

    As to cleanup, DNA, but usually I don't need to.
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  7. #7
    On my most recent job I was able to run just one pass at my regular powder coat settings. Then I cleaned it with a concentrated citrus cleaner. I do not use DNA as I haven't had any luck on the pc with it.

    powder coat.jpg
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  8. #8
    I use one pass most times and then goo gone with magic eraser and I never have any issues. For small areas I use a qtip and goo gone and still loosk fine
    Trotec Speedy 300 60W, with Rotary Attachment
    Corel X8

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