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Thread: inlaid rings techniques?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
    Posts
    1,389

    inlaid rings techniques?

    I have done some veneer inlays before, but have a project where I want to do an olympic ring inlay, but am having a hard time getting a perfect circle cut with good joints. With normal, straightline inlays (such as a compass rose) it is pretty easy given then edges are all straight, but with a circular setup, it is proving tedious and I can't get as good of a joint as I would like. the closest comparison I can find is rosettes on guitars, but those can use the center of the hole as a pivot point for a tool or jig since it is ultimately cut away, but I can't do that on my rings. Any techniques/videos/input would be appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.
    Grady - "Thelma, we found Dean's finger"
    Thelma - "Where is the rest of him?!"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Canada
    Posts
    2,479
    Is it cutting the groove or laying the inlay banding that is the issue?
    If I was doing it I'd use a template made out of 1/4" hard board to route the groove. For the inlay banding you'd do a kerf cut (like when joining two base boards or crowns), i.e. a sharp angle cut at the both ends.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    15,332
    I would do as Mreza suggested. When you can't "damage" the piece with tool marks, then you need to create the tool mark(s) on a scrap piece and then use that on your work piece to do what you need. Make it big enough to clamp or big enough to use double-stick tape or hot glue.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  4. #4
    Like Chris said, I always used a 2" square block of wood with my 1/4" steel pivot pin glued into it, and my adjustable circle guide for the router had the 1/4" hole in it, and I either used hot melt or double stick (VHB tape is awesome) to mount the pin block, then the pin block was twisted off when done, leaving a flawless surface.

    Lately, I have mounted a pin onto a pc of aluminum that slides and locks into the miter gauge slots on my tablesaw (where the router is mounted in the extension).

    My first circle jig (which I still use) was a pc of 1/4" plywood screwed to the underside of my Beisemeyer fence with a fixed pin epoxied into it. Then I could slide the fence to my radius, and lock the fence down for infinite DIA cutting/grooving. Then I would raise the running bit through the plywood and fine adjust for exact radii.
    john.blazy_dichrolam_llc
    Delta Unisaw, Rabbit QX-80-1290 80W Laser, 5 x 12 ft laminating ovens, Powermax 22/44, Accuspray guns, Covington diamond lap and the usual assortment of cool toys / tools.

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