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Thread: typical tensioning on the G0513x2

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Mountain Home, AR
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    547

    typical tensioning on the G0513x2

    Lotta discussion here lately on proper tension has me questioning my setup. My 17" Grizzly saw seems to tension 3/4" Timberwolf resaw blades just fine and I can resaw 12" boards with it tensioned at around 5 and it cuts nice and straight with no drift. I never did the flutter setup to find that setting, it is just how it was set when I bought the saw and has worked great. However, I got a 3/8" Woodslicer and did the flutter method, and the tension gauge was around 7-8 when the fluttering stopped which just doesn't sound right. It cuts fine too, but I have to wonder if I'm under-tensioning the 3/4" blade and/or over-tensioning the 3/8" blade. I don't recall the manual providing any tension meter estimates based on blade width, and the indicator is pretty much worthless aside from being able to repeat the setting for a given blade.

    If they both cut well how they are currently setup does it matter? Or am I over-thinking this?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
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    9,447
    If it works it works, however, why not take the guess work out of it.

    https://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/tension.html
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Elgin, TX
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    231
    Maybe one blade is longer than the other. You might check the length of each blade.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
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    Use one method to tension your blades, the flutter method, deflection, or a home built tension gage. Grizzly describes the flutter and deflection methods in your manual. I used the flutter method with my new 636X, for both a 3/4" and 1" blade and they both run beautifully. Using that method, you start at the nominal mark of the tension indicator for the width blade you are using. With the guides clear of the blade you first turn the tension lower until the blade flutters, then increase tension until the flutter stops, then add 1/4 turn more. I think you will find the indicated tension is higher with increasing blade width.

    When I was horsing around with my 14" Delta I built a tension gage, which is nothing more than a set of vernier calipers and two little c-clamps, and measured the tension in my blade. With that info I knew where to set the spring tension for each blade I used. In every case, the spring tension was higher with increasing blade width.

    John

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    I've been "fluttering" Woodslicers and Timberwolfs via the Suffolk Machinery method for over a decade. I couldn't tell you what number my G0513X is on now or ever has been without going out to look.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Mountain Home, AR
    Posts
    547
    Thanks guys. That's a pretty cool setup tool - I may try making one if I run into issues with future blades. For now it they're cutting good then no need to change I guess.

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