New leather stropping block.

[Stewie Simpson]

Made a new leather stropping block today. Measures 11" x 3" x 2 1/2", with a weight of just over 1kg. (2.2lbs). The block was made of 3 laminated layers of Meranti timber, and the leather used was Butt Cowhide from the U.K. Both end grains of the block were sealed with 2 coats of CA Glue.

Stewie;

[John K Jordan]

Made a new leather stropping block today. Measures 11" x 3" x 2 1/2", with a weight of just over 1kg. (2.2lbs). The block was made of 3 laminated layers of Meranti timber, and the leather used was Butt Cowhide from the U.K. Both end grains of the block were sealed with 2 coats of CA Glue.

That looks great. What glue did you use for the leather?

Did you ever try pig skin? I've tried several leather blocks for my carving gouges and chip carving knives. I got one made from pigs skin and it's my new favorite.

JKJ

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi John; I used the following product to glue the leather down. Apply it to both surfaces before making contact. The top layer overlaps each side leather by 1/6". Each layer of leather was clamped under compression to a flat surface until the adhesive was set dry.

No experience using pigs skin.

Stewie;

[Jebediah Eckert]

Wow, I'm pretty sure we don't have that glue here. If we do it's probably always all sold out. How could the average person not buy "Tarzan's Grip" when displayed next to things like SuperGlue or Gorilla Glue. We certainly have plenty of creative glue names but I think we have a winner here.

The strop block looks perfect. Will you use different compounds on each surface?

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi Jeb. The top surface will be used with a Pure Chromium Oxide Paste. The 2 sides will be left natural, as the final stropping surface.

Stewie;

[Frederick Skelly]

Tarzan's Grip! Sounds very Aussie to me. I love it!
Now if Holden wins over Ford...

[Robert Engel]

Stewie,

Do you think there is a difference smooth side out vs. underside out?

I put mine smooth side out but have noticed a definite excoriation of the surface with use & it is no longer perfectly smooth. Still works fine, but I wonder if I should take a scraper to it maybe?

Or, perhaps I've miss used it some how?

I notice Mr. Sellers has the underside out. I didn't do this because my thinking was the edge pressing down into the nap would tend to dull it.

[Prashun Patel]

"but have noticed a definite excoriation"

I thought I was the only one. I scratch my butt quite regularly and unintentionally. Horse butt, that is.

[george wilson]

Most people use the Suede(flesh) side out. I agree with Stewie and Robert on using the hair side out,as it makes a smoother strop surface. However,it is more susceptible to accidental cuts than the suede side.

But now,I have abandoned leather strops and though I don't like the feel of a blade on it,I just use MDF with compound on it,as it rounds the edge less.

The best strop leather is HORSE butt leather,called "cordovan".

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi Robert; the following attachment matches my long held understanding of which side of the leather is better suited for woodworking Tools.

I cant offer you any sound guidance on the use of a scraper to restore the leather surface. As I understand it, the best way to maintain the smooth side of the leather strop is to periodically apply a lanolin based wax conditioner. https://www.classicshaving.com/produ...op-conditioner

regards Stewie;

Should I use suede(flesh side) or smooth(grain side)?

Leather strops come in both suede and smooth options. Some even have both on the same strop. Of course this leads many to wonder just which is the better option. While a common practice is to use suede in conjunction with compounds and smooth for plain stropping, this is by no means universal. We have found the decision to be a combination of personal choice and type of edge being sharpened.

Straight razors are traditionally stropped on a smooth leather. The grain side surface is perfect for the delicate, low angle edges found on straight razors.
Many carvers and knife sharpeners use suede strops. The nap of the suede holds onto compound well allowing the strop to be loaded easily. The softer surface also provides a bit of rounding to the bevel as the suede compresses under the blade, which some find desirable.

Those who don’t use as much or any compound may prefer the smooth grain side leather. Sharpeners of woodworking tools such as chisels where a rounding of the bevel is not wanted find that the slightly harder surface works to their advantage. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/U...rops-W111.aspx

[John K Jordan]

Thanks, that looks like a general-purpose contact cement. Tandy Leather here sells something similar (flexible, waterproof).

JKJ

[Bill White]

I've had my strop (smooth side out) for many years. As it was showing some nicks and cuts, I figgered that it was time for a new one or a "fix".
I took my block plane with a fine setting to it. Cleaned up the surface very well. I'm back in business.
Bill

[Stewie Simpson]

I am loathe to mention the topic of Pure Chromium Oxide Paste as being superior to whats being offered in the wax stick base, but here goes.

The following is the Leather Stropping Block loaded with the PCOP. A finger tip dipped into the paste was enough to coat the full top surface of the strop.





And here is the Pure Chromium Oxide surface after stropping a bevel up Stanley Block Plane Iron.



How sharp is the cutting edge after being stropped on the PCOP. Razor sharp to the touch..

Stewie;

[Robert Engel]

Razor sharp to the touch.

Just wondering how one determines this. I few drops of blood would be more convincing......

[Derek Cohen]

Stewie, are you going to compare your green compound with that from Lee Valley?

Regards from Perth

Derek