No problem. I just didn't understand.Originally Posted by Justin Ludwig
[OP]
Guest
No problem. I just didn't understand.
Member
Wow. This thing is big enough to be your own country.
[OP]
Guest
Sadly, it's going to be pretty much full once I get everything moving in. The way the building sits on the lot makes it seem bigger than it is in the pictures.
I did forget to mention I picked up a straight line rip saw the a couple of weekends ago. A Diehl ESL-20 in pretty nice shape for $4250. It's Diehl's baseline model ripsaw and it's only 10hp with a 2hp feed motor. Everything I was shopping for previously was 15hp or more. The chains are in very good condition. I also need to get a laser for it. It's going to be way better than pushing stuff through a tablesaw by hand. Plus I think I'm getting charged $.10 a bd/ft for straightlining. That might be for straightlining and surfacing though. Just a PSA for the world. If you're going to go buy something, make sure your plan for bringing it home is adequate. My pickup has a capacity of 1500 pounds. This saw weighs in at 2650 pounds, I was a little over weight, and with the weight being so high up, it was a slow couple of hours driving home.
The lighting sucks, I've got it stored in a buddies shed at the moment.
There is/was a Diehl SL52 for sale in Chicago with a return conveyor. I wish I had the space and $16k to make that happen. One man operation without a bunch of walking or empty machine time. Machines spinning but not hogging wood drives me bonkers.
Guest
I make my 11 year old tail the SLR.
I have a laser on my Ekstrom SLR, none on the Mattison 404 though.
The ECCO will run up to 250 fpm, has 20hp arbor.
I never use a TS to rip lumber anymore.
2600 pounds seems light, ECCO is about 4500 pounds and 404 is over 5500.
Last edited by Darcy Warner; 01-25-2017 at 7:52 AM.
[OP]
Guest
It's a small rip saw. I was thinking I'd buy a new Cantek, but didn't really want to go that route. I thought it was going to be a while before I got one too. This one just popped up at a reasonable price in good condition. I couldn't find an exact replacement cost, or what it cost new. The only thing I found was on Ex-Factory, where they said the replacement cost was $26k. That sounds high to me, but then again, a new comparable Cantek is $14k. There's plenty of good used ripsaws out there, but you have to wade through a lot of clapped out machines that have ran a billion miles of material through them to find a good one. Sure, they can be had cheap, but by the time you put the money and time into them, you might as well go new. Available funds, versus wants....
Diehl sells remanufactured machines. Still out of my price range though. For what I can spend, what I got, and what I want, this little machine is a nice compromise. It's better quality than the Cantek for sure.
This one has an adjustable feed rate, but it's not supposed to. It's supposed to be fixed at 60 fpm. I've been meaning to call Diehl and see what the deal is with that. It's also wired to run on 480v, which it's also not supposed to be. The tag is stamped 230v. Somebody may have special ordered it, who knows.
Guest
Talk to Dick at Diehl. Good guy.
[OP]
Guest
Just did, he's going to call me back when he digs out some information on my machine.
Along the lines of slacking about updates. My new air compressor showed up on the 5th of January. More stuff I don't have anyplace to store.
I really need to stop buying stuff until I can actually set equipment in there. I'm hoping maybe by the beginning of march to pour the floor. Sooner if possible though if the weather cooperates.
I don't understand how to upload pictures on this website. I'd much rather hotlink them from here than from my Facebook page as eventually Facebook kills the link.
[OP]
Guest
The siding is rolling on nicely. All of the steel wainscoting is on, most of the vertical battens are up, and a good portion of the siding is on. I'd guess they've got about 30% of the lap siding on. The carpenters are jumping around a bit to do the longest sections between battens first. The idea is that in the smaller sections, the drops will be used in the smallest of sections. I wanted the battens to visually break up the wall, otherwise it ends up being a lot of lines. I also didn't want seams in the field of the wall. This way all of the siding bumps into a batten, and the joint can be caulked. If there's shrinkage, it can just be re-caulked.
Originally I was planning on doing some sort of board and batten look in the gables. I'm going to shift gears a bit and just do steel. It'll give an approximation of that look, and be a bit less costly in both material and labor. I don't think I'll be giving anything up in looks either. It'll be sharp.
I'm really happy with the choice to do lap siding. I'm really digging the look. All of the battens on the wall are white. I might take a section and throw some grey paint on the face and see how it looks once things warm up. Worst case I can go back to white.
I'm going to do something to dress up the dust collector. It looks like hell against the white of the building. I'm kinda thinking just some stained cedar and build a sort of privacy fence around it in panels that are attached to the collector itself.
Contributor
It's looking great Martin! I agree with you - gotta fence in that collector.
I've lost track - how's the inside shaping up? They haven't poured concrete yet have they?
Fred
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
“If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”
Moderator
I really like how that's going to look with the siding, Martin. Great choices!
On the collector...why not just paint it to match the siding, etc.? You could even do the legs so they mimic the grey of the wainscot...and it would be less costly then "building a wall", to coin a phrase.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
[OP]
Guest
Nothing going on inside of the building at the moment. This has been a pretty soft winter, but it's still 26ºF outside at the moment which is about average, and the cement guys want it above 40ºF outside when they're going to do the pour. I can get the inside up to temp pretty easily, but I can't control the outside. They don't want to put a bunch of chloride in it to keep it hot in the truck since that will affect the finish once done. I want a nice smooth grey floor. You start ramming the chloride at it, and that is tough to get. So basically nothing is going on inside. The ceiling is in, everything is insulated and poly'd, but that's about it. Hopefully in March I can get things poured.
Xcel Energy I guess is taking over the easement process. Who knows how long that will take. Frost charges are on until Mid-March anyways.
Realistically I'm looking at maybe May being able to move in. I'm not real happy about that, but it is what it is.
I really like how that's going to look with the siding, Martin. Great choices!
On the collector...why not just paint it to match the siding, etc.? You could even do the legs so they mimic the grey of the wainscot...and it would be less costly then "building a wall", to coin a phrase.
I might just paint it too. It's probably a wash in time and labor to paint it, or just build something to mask it. I'm thinking it'd look kinda cool wrapped in cedar too. I'd need to build five panels, eight feet tall and just figure out how to attach them. I'm not going to do anything for a while. I've got my hands full with everything else going on. That might be a project for later in the year, or next year. At the very least a bucket of water and broom for a scrub brush would go a long ways. It sat on it's side on blocks behind the current shop for over a year.
I need to get my airlock rebuilt so I can get that going. I'm not looking forward to emptying that thing manually. The long term plan is to airlock it into a closed loop that blows everything into a dump trailer with cap on it. I don't have the cap, or the dump trailer either. lol
Contributor
Why not build the wall & have the neighbor pay for it?
[OP]
Guest
***yawn***Why not build the wall & have the neighbor pay for it?
Guest
Must have some lightweight concrete guys up there.
Guys around here would love to have a pour like that in the winter. Hot water, hot sand, little bit of calcium and non stop working from daylight to dusk.
They were just pouring basements and house slabs all last week here.
[OP]
Guest
They'll pour it if I want, but I won't get the finish I want. If I meet all the criteria they lay out to get floor I want, it's up to them to deliver.
It's a $45k floor, I'll have to walk on it the rest of my career. I want it to look good.
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