Need advise on pricing Northfield jointer.

[Rich Riddle]

That F and E is a Babbit machine. Nothing wrong with them but learning to pour Babbit is like being thrown into the deep end of the pool on your first lesson. Dave

Dave,

They just poured Babbit last weekend at Arnfest. It took several members quite a while to accomplish it.

DSCN0680.JPG DSCN0681.JPG DSCN0682.JPG DSCN0684.JPG DSCN0685.JPG DSCN0687.JPG

[mreza Salav]

That last photo......

[David Kumm]

More like being thrown in the Ocean. Dave

[Cody Armstrong]

Here you go Cody. 16" Fay and Eagen in Kentucky. 5 HP 3PH belt drive. Might be a possibility.

cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/5799667719.html

Thank you Ronald but I will definitely stay away from a jointer with babbitt bearings. I have power hammers with bab bearings. I know how they work and how they're poured but I wouldn't attempt it myself.
I'm no machinist whatsoever and would have to have any major and probably minor work done by a professional. I need a machine that will be reliable and ready to go with no hiccups. Thank you again for pointing it out.

[Doug Ladendorf]

Cody, you did see the 16" Northfield at half the price didn't you?

Doug

[Marty Schlosser]

FWIW, I have a Wadkin RD 16 jointer (16", two knife skewed 5" diameter cutterhead) that was built in 1950 and subsequently lovingly restored by the individual who bought it at acution. I purchased it from that second owner, put on a used 3hp Baldor 200 volt 3 phase motor I'd picked up for $50, and a Teco FM50 VFD that I bought new for $215; both prices shown are in Canadian dollars. There's a 30 amp breaker on the line feeding the VFD. I have found the 3 hp to be just fine for this jointer, despite the "standard" 1hp for every 4" of knife length (which would make it underpowered by 30%). Incidentally, I paid $2250 (Canadian, again) for the jointer and it's been dead-accurate and a joy to have in my shop.

A vfd will run a 16" jointer. cost will be in the $500 range and I'd run a 30 amp circuit single phase to the vfd. I'd also add a brake resistor to the vfd when ordering it. Old DD jointers run about 5 minutes after shut off which is dangerous. A vfd itself won't have enough brake capacity to stop the head without at least one additional resistor but they are cheap. Dave

[Cody Armstrong]

Cody, you did see the 16" Northfield at half the price didn't you?

Doug

The one on ebay painted grey, broken handle on ships wheel, priced at 4000.00? Yea I saw it. Just kinda shopping around right now. I'm willing to hold out for awhile until something nice comes along. It has a 3 knife head I'm hoping for a 4. Thank you Doug.

I think I'm playing it safe by ruling out Babbitt bearings and clamshell style head. Any objections by anyone?

[David Kumm]

Avoid the Oliver clamshell unless you find a dirt cheap machine and change the head. The older Olivers with that head will also have shorter tables and be prior to the early 1930s. Don't let the number of knives trump the table quality. You can adjust speed with a vfd and changing an extra knife is more work than adjusting the pot on the vfd. Dave

[Cody Armstrong]

Ok that's great info. Thanks David. There's a Newman No. 60 Listed on Exfactory as" very good condition" Table is covered in dust so hard to tell what it looks like. I see they have the oil bath bearings. Can also swap the head for a shelix.
What do you think of these machines?

I guess I can post this link mods?? https://www.exfactory.com/Detail.asp...18#prettyPhoto

[David Kumm]

Ex Factory tends to be very high price wise and a reseller with not always much knowledge of the real condition so be careful. The Newman 60 was one of the great jointers made. Maybe the heaviest build of them all. In good condition is would be top of the heap. Not sure it is the best choice for someone new to the old machine business. So few that information is tough to come by. Northfield and oliver have parts and a huge following so any issues can be discussed and advice will be forthcoming.With a Newman you might find you need the knowledge to be able to fend for yourself. I'd feel better if the seller were dealing with his personal machine that was loved or at least from a dealer I trusted. There are some but you need to know enough about machines to verify their statements. Dave

[Andrew Hughes]

Still looking,probably too far but Dan at Davis and Wells usually has Several nicely restored machines for sale.Last time I was there was in January
But he's in California
I still say boooo the a Vfd.
http://davisandwells.publishpath.com...king-machinery

Aj

[John Sincerbeaux]

Cody,
Another thing.... a lot of Northfield 16" jointers for sale are "Pattern Maker's" models. Both models for sale on eBay right now are PM's models. You can tell by the handle/lever on the front of the outfeed table. A quote from Jeff at Northfield..."if you are not a pattern maker, don't buy a pattern maker's jointer".
Most sellers/dealers leave that important feature out of the description.
Good luck. Be patient but diligent in your search.
John

[Cody Armstrong]

David, advice taken on the Newman. Will try to stick with Oliver, Northfield, and Porter. Still haven't gotten a call back about the one I mentioned earlier.

Awesome Andrew! I'll give them a call about the Oliver rebuild they have on offer. Thank you. Anything I get will probably have to be shipped anyway.

John, I watched a video were that was said about PM's jointers but there was no reason given. Thoughts on this from someone?

[David Kumm]

The Northfield with the lever on the outfeed has a spring joint mechanism. To my knowledge it is not a true pattermaker in that it doesn't produce draft like an Oliver 12. It just needs to be locked down. Same for the Porter but the infeed is the better table for the adjustment.

Certain old PM jointers were made by SAC but most were 12" FS 305. Dave

[Martin Wasner]

There's a 1948, 16" Northfield direct drive jointer on woodweb for $4k