[OP]
Member
Bandsaw re-saw blade recommendations?
I need a bandsaw blade dedicated to re-sawing hardwoods (maple, cherry, walnut, sycamore, etc.) and exotics (purple heart, bocote, cocobolo, bubinga, etc.) for book matched dulcimer backs and tops. I need to cut to about 3/16" to finish at about 1/8". This will be on a Grizzly 17" 2.0 hp. bandsaw using a 131 1/2" blade. Suggestions?
"God does not deduct from a man's lifespan the time spent fishing."
Member
I use re-saw blades from "SuperCuts" on my 14" grizzly. 105" blade costs me about $25
No PHD, but I have a DD 214
Contributor
If your saw can tension a 1" blade, the Lenox Woodmaster CT 1", 1.3 tpi blade is amazing:
John
Last edited by Chris Padilla; 10-09-2016 at 8:59 PM.
Contributor
I would suggest a Lenox Die-Master II, as wide as your saw will handle. The Lenox Woodmaster CT requires lots of tension to be able to cut straight and I would want to make sure my machine could do that before paying for one of those. Good luck.
Erik
Member
Eric i don't know the reason why bimetal bandsaw blades thick 0.6 mm are made only in 1/2 size and not 3/4 or 1"
Contributor
Because they might break?Originally Posted by Mastruca e Cambales
Erik
Moderator
The Lenox Die-Master II is only available in 1/2" (mine is the 6 tpi hook style FWIW) and I love it. It is a reasonably-priced blade and I cut veneers with it all the time on my MM20 band saw and it sure has lasted a long time (for a hobbyist) cutting mostly walnut but a fair amount of maple, too.
Contributor
So I've had a 1/2" blade in my MM24 as my general use blade. About to start resawing. From what I'm hearing, I should go 1" or higher with the Lennox Woodmast CT. Sound right?
(Sorry for riding the coattails of this thread.)
Member
1/2" Woodslicer. Exceptional cut and finish.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/w...s138to166.aspx
Contributor
You don't want a Trimaster or CT 1.3 wider than 1". The band gets thicker on the 1.25" and a MM24 won't tension it. I run a 1" on my Oliver 36" 116 and don't need anything wider if you crank up the tension to 30000. DaveSo I've had a 1/2" blade in my MM24 as my general use blade. About to start resawing. From what I'm hearing, I should go 1" or higher with the Lennox Woodmast CT. Sound right?
(Sorry for riding the coattails of this thread.)
Member
Erik, I always thought that tended to crack the too thick blades in relation to the diameter of wheels not those too wide
Member
Wow John that cut is amazing right off the saw, I have a similar 1" blade on my saw (dont know the manufacturer) that came with it , purchased used. Testing resawing its as rough as a cob , seems like the tension is way up but the alignment of fence may be my issue. The blade is razor sharp, and it came with another new one. The fence is a roller type with very little adjustment, may have slot the holes.
WP_20161007_18_28_08_Pro.jpg
Contributor
Mark, not much is similar to the CT. Maybe the Laguna Resaw King. I haven't used one, though, so I'm just speculating. The Woodslicer is ok, short term, but it has a very short life especially in anything abrasive. Diemaster II or Olson MVP blades are good but the surface is much rougher, even if you squeeze out some of the set. Anything that comes stock on a new saw is likely worthless for resawing.
That photo I took with the Woodmaster CT is nothing special. It cuts like that consistently on my Grizzly G0636X.
John
Last edited by John TenEyck; 10-07-2016 at 9:20 PM.
Contributor
what blades are we talking about and what diameter flywheel?
erik
Member
16" or 20" flyweels; 1"×0.35' or 3/4"× 0.35 bimetal or carbide tipped bandsaw blades
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