Remote switching for air compressor and dust collector

[Thomas Hutson]

Hi guys,
Another shop question for you all.
I'm buttoning up my shop at this point in time and want to get it ready for my shed that I will be building onto the back this coming spring. This shed will house the air compressor and the dust collector. The dust collector is a shop fox w1666 2hp 1550cfm unit and the label claims 12 amps. The air compressor is a husky http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-60-...602H/205389936 The spec sheet says its 15 amps at 230 volts.

The shed is going to be built on to the back side of the existing shop building and I want a way to control the air compressor and the dust collector from the common wall between the two. I am still unsure if I will wire both tools into the building directly or do plugs but regardless I need to be able to turn them on and off from the other side of the wall. What is the proper way to do this that will meet code. I would like to be able to have two switches on the other side of the wall that I can simply flip like a light switch but I understand there are limitations with regard to horsepower and motor starting switches of the double pole single throw variety that are required to switch 220v power.

Thanks,
Thomas

[Andy Shearon]

You want a heavy duty double pole switch. Here's an example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...8NQSAB3YSY1P2H

These type of switches are significantly different than your average wall switch. Double check the specs to make sure it fits your requirements!

Andy

[Walter Plummer]

In a couple of the shops I have worked in each machine had it's own breaker and that is what we used to turn them on in the morning and off at quitting time.

[Jerome Stanek]

I have the switch that Andy shows on my 5 HP compressor. It works better then the breaker that I used before as the breaker had to be replaced from use. I also have a night light that comes on when the compressor switch is on that way I am reminded to shut it off when I leave. I wired a solenoid valve that activates when I turn my lights on

[Ben Rivel]

I use these switches from Home Depot (LINK) to kill the power to all my 220V tools and my 220V dust collector. They are Leviton, double pole, 20A and work on 220V circuits. If your circuit is only 20A, you shouldnt need any more industrial switch than that.

Then if you want a power indicator, I use this little 120V LED light wired to one hot and ground coming out of the switch (LINK). Works great! Pick up one of these faceplates (LINK) and cut a 7/8" hole in the blank side for the 120V LED and youve got a nice little power control setup.

Mine looks like this:

220V Switch.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Controlling 240v devices remotely via a switch is best accomplished using a contactor (a type of relay switch) that's rated for the amperage of the device. The control side can be a simple 120v circuit or even low voltage. Triggering can be a simple switch or even a wireless setup. In this way, you're providing the power supply that the device needs locally without extending those heavier circuits a distance and having to invest in heavy industrial or cutoff switches that you actually touch.

My cyclone is controlled this way. It's in a specially constructed closet along with my compressor and I have a single 120v switch centrally located in my shop to turn the DC system on and off via a contactor next to the cyclone. (My compressor is powered 24x7 unless I'm away on vacation, but if it were in a remote location, I'd certainly setup a similar system for power as the cyclone)

BTW, since your equipment will actually be located remotely and out of sight, a lighted control setup like Ben posted about is a great idea so you know what's powered and not powered.

[Ben Rivel]

Something to consider about going wireless too is random signals triggering your tool on. I have a brand new Oneida V-3000 dust collection system and with it I ordered the wireless receiver and I have had that wireless receiver randomly kick on the dust collector twice now after picking up a random signal in the area. Hence the "kill switch" and indicator setup I mentioned above. Cant have power tools randomly powering themselves on. That can be very dangerous, and I dont feel like unplugging them at the end of the day all the time.

[David L Morse]

I use these switches from Home Depot (LINK) to kill the power to all my 220V tools and my 220V dust collector. They are Leviton, double pole, 20A and work on 220V circuits. If your circuit is only 20A, you shouldnt need any more industrial switch than that.

That switch is rated 2HP and should be OK for the DC but the compressor will need the 5HP switch that Andy linked.

[Ben Rivel]

That switch is rated 2HP and should be OK for the DC but the compressor will need the 5HP switch that Andy linked.

Why do you think that? The max current draw listed in the specs for that compressor is 15 amps, the switch I posted can handle 20 amps. As long as the circuit is a 20 amp circuit with 12 AWG or thicker wire it should work just fine. If the compressor was even hitting 20 amps during start up the breaker would be blowing.

EDIT: Hmm, after looking a bit more into it, I see some odd info here: LINK Leviton rates this switch as a 20 amp switch but then state in their specs that its a max amperage of 16 amps. That is odd. I guess they have worked fine for me because I only power one tool at a time off of them and none of those tools draw over 16 amps. They do however make 30 amp ones rated for 24 amps LINK. Guess it wouldnt hurt to go that route if ones feels they need to.

[Thomas Hutson]

Those switches say non grounding in the description. What exactly does that mean?

[David L Morse]

Why do you think that? The max current draw listed in the specs for that compressor is 15 amps, the switch I posted can handle 20 amps. As long as the circuit is a 20 amp circuit with 12 AWG or thicker wire it should work just fine. If the compressor was even hitting 20 amps during start up the breaker would be blowing.

The compressor spec says 3.7HP so a 2HP switch is inadequate. The motor rating of a switch is more about turn off than turn on. It has to be able to quickly snuff any arcing generated when the motor is shut off.

[Ben Rivel]

Those switches say non grounding in the description. What exactly does that mean?

Means it doesnt have a ground terminal probably because its used for wiring directly to a motor to control it. Probably not the type you want for just controlling power to your compressor. Check out the ones I linked to.

[David L Morse]

Those switches say non grounding in the description. What exactly does that mean?

There's no grounding screw. To ground the yoke use a (grounded) metal box, not a plastic one.

[John M. Smith]

I did as Jim said and used a contractor relay type switch. It is controlled by a 100v circuit via a switch by the door with all my light switches. Turn all off when leaving the building.

[Thomas Hutson]

There's no grounding screw. To ground the yoke use a (grounded) metal box, not a plastic one.

So to ground this switch id have to take the grounding and screw it to the box? I do this on both sides of the switch then? it will function the same and be safe? can i use a plastic cover over the metal box? also if i wanted to have those indicator lights like the other gentleman posted can I do that with those same switches. they are rated as motor starters and disconnectors.

Thanks,
Thomas