Choosing a band saw

[Matthew Schneider]

I have a fear of table saws, so I'm trying to do without. This involves more extensive use of a band saw, but the band saw I bought (old 12" craftsman 113) seems inadequate for a number of reasons: the blade wanders back and forth on the wheel, the table isn't flat, and the guides don't meet the blade right. Fixable problems, but I'd rather not put more money into it.

So now I'm considering my options for replacing it. Mainly, I need to be able to accurately square lumber and resaw.

I'm pretty poor (I'm hoping that woodworking will help me out of poverty), so price is a big issue, but if possible I'd rather not buy an inadequate saw and have to upgrade later.

The options I'm looking at so far:
The Porter Cable 14" saw from Lowes. It's the cheapest option at $450. No fence, but I have a Kreg fence. It has guide blocks instead of bearings, which the internet seems to be saying is better.

Shop Fox W1706. $300 more than the Porter Cable. It looks more solid, and has cast iron wheels.

Grizzly G0555LX "Deluxe Bandsaw". Looks very similar to the Shop Fox, but uglier and $100 cheaper.

Presently the Porter Cable seems the most compelling for the price.

[Jim Becker]

Bandsaws can be very versatile, but do keep in mind that the finish of the cut will not be anything close to a table saw or a high quality track saw. You're also going to need a jointer and thickness planer (or some good hand planes) to clean up and final dimension what you cut with the band saw. It's the nature of the machine.

Of those you mention, the Shop Fox or Grizzly (same company... ) are the ones to zero in on. I doubt that the PC will make you smile as much as the heavier machines. But also consider that quite often folks that decide to center their shop around a band saw will go for a heavier, bigger machine, so they can run wider blades at higher tension for cleaner rips, etc.

[Andrew Hughes]

(I'm hoping that woodworking will help me out of poverty)

Good luck.

Aj

[Geoff Crimmins]

I've not heard especially good things about the Porter Cable bandsaw, but the Grizzly and Shop Fox saws are usually pretty good. Of course you'll get more saw for the money if you can find a good deal on a used one, and know how to check it out to make sure nothing is broken. Tell us a little more about what you would like to use the saw. When you talk about ripping and dimensioning boards, what length and thickness of boards would you typically be cutting? And how wide of boards would you like to be able to resaw? There's a big difference between resawing a 5" wide board and a 12" wide board. Answers to questions like this will help everyone give you better advice.

--Geoff

[Matt Day]

(I'm hoping that woodworking will help me out of poverty)

Good luck.

Aj

+1.

If you are strapped for cash, why would you buy new in the first place? Educate yourself on what's out there, be diligent, check craigslist frequently,
And be ready to pounce on a good deal.

[Matthew Schneider]

I'd probably save about $100 for a used band saw compared to the Porter Cable, assuming there isn't a sale within a reasonable amount of time. And there's some risk in not noticing something wrong with it. And the ones I've seen don't look any better from what I can tell. Not that I'm not open to buying used if I do come across a good deal on a good saw.

I won't be resawing more than 6" or ripping/dimensioning longer than probably 5 feet less than or equal to 2" thick.

[mark kosse]

Matt, you might post your location. Someone might help you out.

[Tom Trees]

Find yourself a used 20" + saw ....
Doesn't matter if its 3 phase as long as the motor states on the nameplate anywhere 220/240v ......that's low voltage
Right now I'm lookin at 3HP Chinese VFD's for 135 dollars shipped to the states .

That's single phase IN .........simulated 3 phase out
A start and a stop switch will together cost about 3 bucks
Don't let three phase discourage ..it is a blessing in your case as your strapped .....
and the machines are a totally different league ....no more biscuit tin machines .
Never looking back ...plus now I realistically have a solution for proper dust extraction even with my puny supply !

Have FUN
Good luck

[Allan Speers]

Find yourself a used 20" + saw ....
Doesn't matter if its 3 phase as long as the motor states on the nameplate anywhere 220/240v ......that's low voltage
Right now I'm lookin at 3HP Chinese VFD's for 135 dollars shipped to the states .

Those super-cheap Chinese VFD's have an incredibly bad reputation. Very high rate of failure.

YMMV, but I recommend getting the next step up, which would be TECO, Hitachi, etc. Probably around $200 for a 1.5 HP, and infinitely more dependable.

[John TenEyck]

You didn't say why you are afraid of table saws, but I recommend you work to over come those fears through training with a qualified instructor/program. A table saw is with only a little argument the most versatile piece of power equipment you can have in your shop. And the really good news is you can buy very serviceable used ones cheap, like $150 cheap for a Sears CI. Your odds of finding a good bandsaw at that price is about like winning the lottery. I've used one for 30 years and it's still running fine. I prefer my Unisaw, but the Sears still justifies its space in my shop. In any case, a table saw can do so much more than a bandsaw. If you really want to learn to make cabinets, etc. efficiently, and have any desire to make money at it, you should reconsider your choice of using a bandsaw as your primary means of cutting wood.

John

[Charles P. Wright]

I had an inexpensive bandsaw (benchtop for about $100) and a reasonably priced contractor table saw (RIDGID for $420). The table saw was by far my go-to machine. I've now got a top notch band saw (MM16), and the quality of cuts is in a whole other league compared to an inexpensive bandsaw, but still isn't quite as clean as my table saw. Granted, you have a 12" and I had a 9" benchtop, but I think we were suffering from the same problems like the blade not having enough tension to really keep straight.

If you're looking to do this for the money, I think you should go with a table saw [I say this as an experienced amateur]. With the price range you're in, an inexpensive one bolted to a bench would be fine I think.

Just make sure to use push sticks, make sure you are following good safety practices (e.g., no rip fence with a miter gauge), and you should be fine. If you aren't careful, either machine can hurt you.

[Greg Woloshyn]

Automation Direct is a USA company that builds very high quality VFDs and priced around the same as the other chinese brands. I own two and am very happy with them.

[Mike Kees]

I agree with Charles and John that a tablesaw is the best option for you starting out. My recommendation would be a delta or rockwell 10 contractor saw preferably with a unifence or biesemeyer fence. A 30'' fence will do 90 percent of all you ever need. These saws can be found cheap, I just bought one the other day for 160 dollars with a 30 unifence. These saws work well, have adequate power and hold their adjustments well. If you go the bandsaw route look for a used Delta 14 or Powermatic. Good luck, Mike.

[lee cox]

If you are looking for an inexpensive bandsaw you should consider an old Delta 14 inch. They are solid machines and there are a million of them around. Parts are easy to find. It should cost less than $500.

[Prashun Patel]

You're desire to purchase a bandsaw-as-replacement-for-tablesaw and financial condition make this a difficult proposition.

Due respect, I would NOT get a Porter Cable or other small saw. If it were me, I would wait for a good deal on an 18" or larger saw. One with a rigid frame. There are good deals on used equipment, or if you can scrape together between 1000 and 2000, then the Grizzly's are formible users in their price category.

As a replacement for a table saw, you want mass, stability and capacity.

Trading your Craftsman for another cheap saw is a gamble I personally would not take.