Timber mate wood filler

[Thomas Pratt]

I picked up some walnut Timber Mate wood filler at the lumber yard to use in finishing a walnut project. Does anyone have any words of wisdom about how to, or not to, use it? This is my first time trying to get a very smooth finish on a top surface, so I decided that I needed some filler.

[Andy Giddings]

Thomas, is this for filling gaps or filling the grain?

[Wayne Lomman]

Thomas, use it as is for filling holes and thin it down with water to use as a grain filler. It goes on OK. I usually apply grain filler by hand with a coarse rag. Rub it in with a circular motion until it gets a bit sticky, then wipe off with the grain. It's a good product - much better than solvent based filler. Cheers

[Matt Hegedus]

I used the same stuff on my last project. Turned out really nice... I filled small pinholes and the coarse grain on the sides of the cabinet I built. The timbermate seems a little lighter than black walnut lumber I used, so be conscious of that and definitely use a test piece. It made the lumber appear a lot lighter compared to a piece without it, especially after finishing with varnish.

I applied as directed, both rubbing it in with my fingers for the small holes and then using as a diluted grain filler. Good luck!

[glenn bradley]

Its my go-to for a putty. I have not used it for a pore filler though. I use oil based finishes so 'plaster of paris' makes a great filler. Goes on easy, fills tiny irregularities, sand or sponges easily and turns translucent when oils are applied.

http://pianomaker.co.uk/technical/filling/

http://www.richardjonesfurniture.com...ill-table.html

[Steve Schoene]

You won't get a full fill if you wipe off with the grain--the wiping tool will pull filler out from the pores.. The wiping, or removing with a credit card or the like, needs to be cross grain until nearly all the filler has been removed. Then, with a water based filler you will need to sand to remove residual on the surface. I can't tell you how well the Timber Mate sands. I generally prefer oil-based pore filler. It gives lots of time to scrape and wipe surface clean, and doesn't raise the grain.

[Thomas Pratt]

Both. For gaps I will use it with just a little water. For filling I will dilute it.

[Bill McNiel]

Thomas,
I have used Timber Mate as pore filler on both veneers and solid wood (primarily mahogany- never really saw the need with walnut) with excellent results.
My thoughts:
-Pick a color that is significantly darker than the wood.
-Mix it with distilled water to semi-thick milkshake consistency.
-Slather it on in a circular motion with a paper towel or rag.
-Remove gross excess with a light touch using an epoxy spreader or credit card going perpendicular to the grain before the product dries.
-After it has fully dried, lightly sand away the hazy residue going with the grain using 220 paper with a felt pad block. Careful not to sand too deep.
-Apply finish
-Celebrate

FWIW-I have used Waterlox over the TM pore filler with no issues. I'm sure using an oil base finish over the water based filler will raise some eyebrows but it has never created any issues for me.

Hope this helps - Bill