Marquetry and the Router

[Mark W Pugh]

OK, I've read thousands, well not quite, on routers for inlays, but very few on cutting the "hole", if you will, for marquetry. I've read all the plus and minuses for Bosch, Dewalt, etc. So, don't need a rehash on that.

I want to continue developing my skills on/in marquetry. I did some work on a picture frame I made, and used a standard Dewalt plunge router for cutting the "hole" for the decorative piece. Now, there were problems with lighting, actually viewing the cut, and dust/scrap evacuation. It worked, but it was not easy work.

So the question is, what powered routing/other device do you guys use to cut out the "hole" for the decorative piece? I want to cut to the line, not just hog out the majority with a router, then chisel my way to the line.

Any other suggestions appreciated.

Thanks

[Van Huskey]

My favorite are plunge bases for Dremal tools. Stew Mac and Lee Valley have good ones. William Ng sells a great one for using a Foredom handset. If you prefer something bigger I like the Dewalt 611 and use it on occasion for larger work.

[Mark W Pugh]

My favorite are plunge bases for Dremal tools. Stew Mac and Lee Valley have good ones. William Ng sells a great one for using a Foredom handset. If you prefer something bigger I like the Dewalt 611 and use it on occasion for larger work.

Is there much flex in the Dremel on the base? I saw the Dremel and the Veritas at Lee Valley. It looks like the Veritas would help with chip evacuation, depending on which way the device is pulled/pushed.

Any fixes on lighting? Looks like the Dremel has an accessory light that attaches to the base.

[Van Huskey]

Is there much flex in the Dremel on the base? I saw the Dremel and the Veritas at Lee Valley. It looks like the Veritas would help with chip evacuation, depending on which way the device is pulled/pushed.

Any fixes on lighting? Looks like the Dremel has an accessory light that attaches to the base.

I haven't found any objectionable flex in the Dremal while on the Veritas base. I have started keeping a couple of LED headlamps in the shop, for me they work great at providing light exactly where I am looking and they aren't a one trick pony as I can use them anytime I need task lighting inline with my vision.

[Mark W Pugh]

One last question, Dremel 3000 or 4000?

[Michelle Rich]

you might want to check out microfence..great plunge base with gooseneck lights built in.

[Mike Henderson]

When doing inlay, I take my piece that I want to inlay and tape it in place. Then I take a knife and trace the piece, lifting the tape as appropriate to be able to knife it, while holding it firmly in place.

Then I use a trim router, like the DeWalt 611, and only try to get close to the edges. I finish with chisels and carving tools (for the curved sections). I find I can get an exact inlay that way, with no gaps.

If doing inlay with veneer, which is really thin, you have to be very accurate with the depth.

Mike

[Here's an inlay I did using the technique described above]
Inlay-003.jpg

[Steve Jenkins]

Also suggest looking at the micro fence plunge base. They have recently come out with a lighting system for their bases that is fantastic

[pat warner]

A window template will get you close to your pattern.
Using compact plunger, collar and skinny bits.
Otherwise practice for ever, (like Mr. Henderson), and ace it out with knives and chisels.

[jerry cousins]

stew mac has a well machined base for dremels -
jerry

[Van Huskey]

One last question, Dremel 3000 or 4000?

I have used both, I don;t think I ever noticed a real difference.

Others have mentioned the Micro Fence which is EXCELLENT though not cheap.

[Mark W Pugh]

You guys!! I've looked at Micro Fence, and absolutely love the concept. And, I like the Varitas Dremel plunge base. I still have some play $$ to spend, so maybe I'll try both. I have some thoughts on different uses for each. Thanks for pushing me over the edge : )

[Lee Schierer]

OK, I've read thousands, well not quite, on routers for inlays, but very few on cutting the "hole", if you will, for marquetry. I've read all the plus and minuses for Bosch, Dewalt, etc. So, don't need a rehash on that.

I want to continue developing my skills on/in marquetry. I did some work on a picture frame I made, and used a standard Dewalt plunge router for cutting the "hole" for the decorative piece. Now, there were problems with lighting, actually viewing the cut, and dust/scrap evacuation. It worked, but it was not easy work.

So the question is, what powered routing/other device do you guys use to cut out the "hole" for the decorative piece? I want to cut to the line, not just hog out the majority with a router, then chisel my way to the line.

Any other suggestions appreciated.

Thanks

My understanding is that marquetry is the technique of putting together thin pieces of veneer face side down onto a paper or tape surface and then once the design is complete, applying glue and bonding that assembly to a substrate. The piece is then clamped until the glue is dried and then sanded for final finishing.

Inlay is putting thin pieces of wood into pre-cut recesses in a larger piece of solid wood to create a design.

[Mark W Pugh]

My understanding is that marquetry is the technique of putting together thin pieces of veneer face side down onto a paper or tape surface and then once the design is complete, applying glue and bonding that assembly to a substrate. The piece is then clamped until the glue is dried and then sanded for final finishing.

Inlay is putting thin pieces of wood into pre-cut recesses in a larger piece of solid wood to create a design.

OK, I may have used the wrong word. I want to put large/med/small pieces of different wood pieces, to form a pattern, in to a larger piece of wood.

[Brodie Brickey]

David Marks has an inlay class he offers a couple times a year. In the class, we use Foredom motors and an 1/16" bit to route the recess. One of the things David did was setup a clear plexiglass base the shaft fits into. It acted like a base you could see through and still route to the line. If found it easy to use and gave you an inexpensive base you can make.

On the flip side, Sean Rubino, considerably less famous but quite talented, (https://spunjinworks.com/2016/01/07/...blossom-inlay/) uses a plunge router and a 1/16" bit to route his inlays. He prefers the heavy router for stability. You can see a demo he gave on doing this here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x93aIr39RWo).