Marking Knives

[Mark W Pugh]

Why a marking knife vs a Xacto knife, or any other sharp tool? Just trying to learn.

What does the marking knife gain me? Which one would you recommend? I know there will be a thousand different answers, but I'm ordering stuff, and it's on the list, maybe.

Thanks

[Prashun Patel]

I have come to love my blue spruce knife for dovetails.

I want something That is thin to get into tight spaces but rigid enough not to flex.

I have some igaging ones that are ok too but I reach for the blue spruce more.

[Andrew Hughes]

For me a xacto knife blade is too thin.It will follow the grain sometimes and it's just too hard too see on some woods.
It also has a bevel so you will have too lean the knife out.
My marking knife is thicker and the tip has a little flat spot that leans back with sides that go right down to sharp.
Its a very good shape that I like.
But if your having good results with a xacto knife you should keep using it.

Aj

[Mark W Pugh]

For me a xacto knife blade is too thin.It will follow the grain sometimes and it's just too hard too see on some woods.
It also has a bevel so you will have too lean the knife out.
My marking knife is thicker and the tip has a little flat spot that leans back with sides that go right down to sharp.
Its a very good shape that I like.
But if your having good results with a xacto knife you should keep using it.

Aj

Andrew and Prashun, thanks for the info. I now understand the issue. Another item to add to the order. Thanks again.

I too want something for tight places and not flex. Any suggestions? I know there is not a magical solution, maybe a couple to do different tasks. Any recs?

Thanks again

[Steve Hubbard]

At Marc Adams School of Woodworking, we were taught to use xacto type knives. The blade is thin enough that the double bevel is not an issue. The first pass is light and shallow so following the grain is not an issue, the second pass is made with a little more pressure, and the third pass is made with enough pressure to leave a good line. My eyes are a little older, so I use magnification and extra lighting - visibility of the line is not an issue. In my hands, accuracy is better with the exacto blade than with my expensive and beautiful marking knife.

In our community, the most common exacto type handles have the knurled tightening area at the blade end of the handle. These tend to become loose during use. Although more difficult to find in local stores, handles with the knurled tightening area at the end opposite the blade stay tightened.

[Mike Henderson]

I like single bevel marking knives and use the Japanese ones. They're stiff and they lay down a visible, accurate line.

Mike

[lowell holmes]

At Homestead Heritage, we used box cutters for marking knives. I still do on occasions.

It leaves a definite precise mark.

[Brian Tymchak]

I like single bevel marking knives and use the Japanese ones. They're stiff and they lay down a visible, accurate line.

Mike

+1. I bought a fairly inexpensive set (right+left) of marking knives some years ago (maybe Crown?) and they made a tremendous difference in the accuracy of the layout lines. turns out I never use the left side knife, being right handed.

[Jim Becker]

Mine is from Lee Valley. The flat side hugs a metal rule pretty well as compared to many other options. And since it's pretty sharp and has nice angles, it's sometimes come in handy for gently cleaning out some tight spots in hand tool work.

[pat warner]

Lots or markers, application dependent.
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[Prashun Patel]

FWIW, I went back and re-read an FWW article. They rated the XActo best and best value. Blue Spruce and Hock offerings also got good 'marks'.

[Andrew Hughes]

I don't agree at all if you have ever needed to mark something with the grain.The thin blade cuts too cleanly and the cut get swallowed up by the wood.
I can see cross grain working ok.
Its best to have one knife that does it all.
Hock makes a decent one that I use sometimes.

Aj

[michael langman]

I bought a Stanley 10-049 utility knife recommended by Paul Sellers for a marking knife.

It was about 6-7 dollars and works great.

[Thomas Pratt]

Another option is to take an old hack saw blade and make a beveled point for marking. Wrap the blade with duct tape to make a handle to suit you. This works fine if you don't take the temper out of the blade while grinding it - like using a Tormek or some other water cooled grinder. Suggestion: don't do like I did and use one hack saw blade for a right hand bevel on one end and a left hand bevel on the other. I got them mixed up too much, so make two.

[Glenn de Souza]

An author named Ian Kirby who wrote a good book on dovetailing recommends a swiss army knife (or any similar pocket knife). He seems to like the curve in the blade as opposed to "scratching" your marking line with a point. http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/using-marking-knife/

I think like so much else in woodworking, it might come down to personal preference rather than one obviously "right" way. Chances are you may have a swiss army knife or xacto knife or box cutter around, so why not try it and see what you think.