How hard is to adjust the table on a SS?

[Wade Lippman]

When I rip cherry it regularly burns, but hey, cherry burns...
Today I ripped some maple and it burned also. I checked the fence against the table and it is pretty square.
I checked the fence against the blade (well, two blades) and it is off by about 0.01". That accounts for the burning.

I looked at the instructions in the manual, and they look really fiddly. How easy is to get that 0.01" out?

I could just adjust the fence to the blade. That looks easy enough. It would leave my blade out of square with the miter gauge, but .01" over 6" is less than a tenth of a degree. I doubt my miters are all that accurate anyhow, and I don't do many miter cuts. Obviously it is the wrong way to do it; but if adjusting the table will be an exercise in frustration... (I picture going one way 0.01, then .01 the other way, and so on and so on)

So, who has done it, and how bad is it?

[Andrew Hughes]

Did you really mean .001 because .01 is a lot.
If it's out .01 you should make time to get it closer to .002 between blade and miter slots.
That's what I'm thinking.

Aj

[mreza Salav]

your statements are confusing to me. Is your fence not "parallel" to the blade?
I suppose you don't know whether blade is parallel to the miter slots or not, or do you? if they are parallel already you just adjust your fence to make that parallel too (super easy).
If the blade is not parallel to miter slots first adjust the table to make it parallel to the blade. That's easy too, you have pivoting pin in the front middle and you adjust the two allen screws on the two sides of the table to move the back end left or right.
Once that's done you adjust your fence to be parallel to the blade.

[Ben Rivel]

Read the manual. Its very clear and from what I have read the easiest table saw ever made to adjust. I was able to get mine within .002" blade to miter slot.

[glenn bradley]

You don't mention what model and I only have experience with the PCS 3HP. The adjustment mechanism on the SS is far more precise than on other cabinet mounted trunnion machines I have owned in so far as you adjust with a screw versus just tapping on the top. Backing off one side and then tightening the other side's adjustment screw allows much more precision than bumping a loose top with my hand or a mallet. Reaching the adjustment screws is the biggest challenge for me. What part is giving you trouble?

[Chris Fournier]

If you have a cabinet saw the task is dead simple. I have the table of of my saw several times and never gave it much thought. Scribe around the four bolts holding the top to the cabinet for reference then loosen the bolts but not to fully loose. Then using your indicator set up in the mitre slot, tap the table with a dead blow hammer to get the tolerance that you are happy with.

I have always run my fences dead parallel to my blades.

Make sure that your saw blades are clean and pitch free and I hope that you get burn free cuts.

[Frank Pratt]

Yep, what the others have said. Ten thou out on the blade to the miter slot makes the saw almost unusable. Get that dialed in & then set the fence. Did it come from the factory that far out? Mine (PCS 3HP) was dead on right out of the box. The adjustments are super easy & the manual explains the process very well. Just be patient & take your time.

[Wade Lippman]

Yes, .01" off between miter and sawblade. I have the fence good with the miter, so it is off to the blade also. PCS 3hp.

I don't think it was this far off from the factory, but maybe.

With several people telling me it is easy, I will give it a go. Thanks.

[Ben Rivel]

Yes, .01" off between miter and sawblade. I have the fence good with the miter, so it is off to the blade also. PCS 3hp.

I don't think it was this far off from the factory, but maybe.

With several people telling me it is easy, I will give it a go. Thanks.

Make sure you test it out with multiple blades to just to confirm one blade isnt bent and throwing off your readings.

[Wade Lippman]

Okay, I have the 4 screws loosened. I don't see the adjusting screws. Presumably I have to remove the back rail to get to them? Is that correct?

Instead of waiting for a reply I took off the rail and couldn't find the screws. BECAUSE THEY ARE ON THE SIDES!

Okay, how much turning will take 0.01" out?

This was easier when I still had my mind.

[mreza Salav]

seems not only you don't read your manual, you didn't read the replies carefully either.
I did say " two allen screws on the two sides of". Honestly, read the manual carefully. You'll benefit.

[Wade Lippman]

I read it as on the right and left side of the back. I saw the picture of the door on the side and thought it was the door on the back.

All done. Out by less than an 0.001. Hardest part, other than getting the DC stuff off for access, was getting the wench into the alignment screws.

Now the fence was parallel to the miter slot when I started, and it still it. Presumably the fence moves with the table; so they remain in alignment.

[mreza Salav]

Good to hear it was successful.

[Frank Pratt]

Probably late with this tip, but you don't want to have the blade hard against the stops, either at the top or 90 positions. Just move the wheel until it's lightly against the stops.