Pin Board to suspend work

[Joseph Shawa]

Tired of burning my small pieces and not wanting to make a dedicated bed I cut a bunch of pins that would fit just right into the honeycomb table.

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The base is pointed so I can easily insert through a piece of paper with a "T" to keep it from falling through and then a 2mm x 10 mm peg on top.

I placed them at least 3 to a piece. The paper was a bit tough to remove. I guess I could use tissue paper next time....or just leave it.

I can place them all over my table to hold up large pieces or I just cut out pieces and just lay over the pegged area I'm going to cut.

Now I have much less burn.
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[Bert Kemp]

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[Jerome Stanek]

What I did was used my CNC to drill 1/8 holes in a sheet of ply and use pop rivets for the pins.

[Joseph Shawa]

I would have too but the Ply would get scorched below. With the 3.5in focal length lens even paper in the catch bin below my table starts on fire. Oh, and I would have had to get a CNC machine : )

But I already had a table with holes in it so why not use it.

[John Blazy]

Why not take a nail gun and shoot a crapload of nails through plywood? I think I'll try that. I get burning on the underside of my grid, and large pcs won't fall through if I shoot nails every inch or so. Definitely need to cut holes in ply prior to shooting for airflow. OR shoot in rows, then laser long openings between the rows.

[Joseph Shawa]

I was actually trying to eliminate flash back from the metal as it was blackening my small parts. And, like I said, I already have the board with holes in it so I just made little removable pins to fit the holes. Works great. If I happen to misplace a pin then it just gets cut and won't get be a problem on the next round.

Oh, and some of my parts are smaller than 1/4 in so with so many nails it would start to look like, well, honeycomb. And then, of course there is reusing the board for the next project.

[Bert Kemp]

I think you'll have a hard time getting a level bed to work off . Nail guns loose power as you shoot nails , before the compressor kicks on to bring it up to full power again. and a consistent depth will be near impossible.

Why not take a nail gun and shoot a crapload of nails through plywood? I think I'll try that. I get burning on the underside of my grid, and large pcs won't fall through if I shoot nails every inch or so. Definitely need to cut holes in ply prior to shooting for airflow. OR shoot in rows, then laser long openings between the rows.

[Bill George]

Honeycomb, steel is best solves the problem.

[Joseph Shawa]

It really doesn't do so well for me, Bill. But, that may be because I use a pretty high power and speed combo? I run through the 1mm plastic at about 80 and power set at 100. I guess I could slow it down and maybe there wouldn't be so much reflected off the edges of the honeycomb.

[Bill George]

It really doesn't do so well for me, Bill. But, that may be because I use a pretty high power and speed combo? I run through the 1mm plastic at about 80 and power set at 100. I guess I could slow it down and maybe there wouldn't be so much reflected off the edges of the honeycomb.

With acrylic cutting I just set it on a couple (several) of ceramic tile, other wise the flash back from the grid will mark the plastic.

[Joseph Shawa]

ARRRRR! That's IT? And it works? Where have you been? I'll try it. If so, I'll just perforate enough tile to cover my table. I wonder if the laser will cut it.... : )

[Jerome Stanek]

I should have said that I laminated a sheet of Aluminum on the ply wood before I drilled it. All the pop rivets seem to be the same length.

[Bill George]

Putting a 100 or so pop rivets in has to be time consuming and expensive. My ceramic tile was left over from a job, like the kitchen counter back splash. I flip it over so the dull side is up.

[Jerome Stanek]

tried setting acrylic on tile but was getting moisture on the bottom. I got my pop rivets from a ceiling company that sells them by the pound

[Kev Williams]

What I use on the solid table on my LS900 to prevent backflash is simple: I lay out paper towels, then soak them with a spray bottle. Works quite well to buffer the cut flash.

I'm noticing the honeycomb grid on the Triumph is making worse marks on the backs of my Rowmark lately, likely due to more to residue buildup on the grid than the grid itself. I haven't tried this trick on the Triumph yet, but later today I have to cut some 1/8" Rowmark and I'll give it a try.

I have some heavy duty paper towels like these I'll be trying out, as they'll hold a lot more water than any regular paper towel
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And fwiw, if you use paper towels in your work, I HIGHLY recommend these! They're more like rags than towels-They work great and they're almost indestructible.

Another thing I use, but this only works on solid tables, lock washers for 6/32 screws. Just pour out a bunch then space them out a bit, they keep the material off the table about 1/32"...

And one more thing that WILL work on honeycomb tables- very thin cut scraps of Rowmark. They're free and they work great!
As you can see from the cut marks, I've used a couple of these pieces already!
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