Crisscross on leg vise

[Kevin Hampshire]

IMG_7259.jpg

I’m working on a Moravian Workbench build (ala Will Myers) and plan to place the chop on the leg versus the original Old Salem inspired vise design.

Due to the three short stretchers between the end legs, I didn't think I could use a Crisscross because of the design of the mortises on those stretchers. I had an unintended (and long) break on my build, but I was able to work on the design to incorporate a Crisscross.

I’ve sketched up a full-scale leg drawing and realized that I don’t know the optimum distance/ratio to use between the top of the bench, center of the screw and the Crisscross.

My current plan still centers the screw 11 ½” below the top but I don't know if moving the Crisscross closer to the floor will give me greater leverage. I have a couple of inches of slop to move things up or down. FWIW, based on some inputs earlier this year, I may move the Lake Erie screw up closer to the bench top so I don't have to bend or stoop as much to use it.

[Mike Holbrook]

You might also think about the AYS (Anchor Yacht Service) chain adjuster, designed by a poster here on SMC, Jim Ritter.

I think it is ok to link to Derek's site and his article on the one he added to his leg vise.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...nAdjuster.html

[Kevin Hampshire]

Mike, I actually started with the idea of using an Ancora Yacht Service chain on the leg vise. I started the design work and then realized that I could also adapt the Crisscross. While I'm currently looking at the Crisscross, I haven't eliminated the Ancora Yacht Service chain, but for now I'm more interested in the Crisscross.

I did look at Derek's site and decided either solution would require some type of modification.

[Andy Nichols]

Have a crisscross on my leg vise and originally went with the recommended 11-12" or so down for the screw, did not like it that low at all, so moved it up to just about 9.5".

My chop goes all the way to the floor, up a few thou, and weights around 70 lbs with hardware attached, clamping forces are extraordinary....



Regards,
Andy
Mos Maiorum

[Mark Fisher]

I mounted mine on the leg also. One thing to keep in mind is that the chop is clamping against the benchtop that is pinned to the leg assembly. I ended up snapping the dowel that attached the benchtop to the legs. I ended up using a 1" piece of Thompson shaft (basically ground hard steel) instead of the dowel. It gives a big bearing surface for the wood and it definitely hasn't broken. I'm anxious to hear how it works out. The pin at the bottom is a pain.

[Kevin Hampshire]

Andy, I'm still looking at the 11 1/2" bench top to screw distance. I'll try a mock up of that spacing before drilling the leg and chop. I suspect I'll end up with more like 9" or so.


Mark, if you look at the full scale drawing in the original post, I've beefed up the leg, increased the width of the top stretcher and sketched in a 1" pin. I was planning on a riven white oak one, but I'll look at using a metal pin instead.

Was your original pin a riven oak or a home center type dowel?

[Andrey Kharitonkin]

Kevin, I have recently built a mock up for my angled leg vise with linear bearings. Can make some pictures if you want. Overall, it works pretty good. Many points from Crisscross and Veritas Twin Screw vise installation instructions I found also relevant for linear bearing leg vise. The main advantage of linear bearing to me is that leg vise can be easily unscrew from the bench leaving no sticking out parts. I suppose this will be useful when clamping big things for the edge planing that requires whole front side free of obstacles.

I consider my mock up to be angled because linear bearing and screw are not in the same vertical line but offset by about 4", pretty much like it would be on your workbench. Ofsset mainly because it is easier from construction point of view on my bench. And then there is also an idea that angled leg vise can hold vertical piece clamped on the right side better (in theory, at least) which is almost like having vise with throat till the floor. Disadvantage of angled vise (which is also mentioned in Benchcrafted FAQ) is that it doesn't glide in and out as nice because the chop is not balanced and there is side force on the screw. Doesn't matter much for my mock up with wooden tommy bar though (more relevant to metal wheels where their big momentum is used to glide in and out).

Regarding your original question, I have seen a plan with distance of 290 mm (11.417 inch) here: https://www.fine-tools.com/roubo-hobelbank.html - there is also a video where one can try to estimate ergonomics of using it. My plan so far is to make it like 9-10 inch and with screw offset side-wise (which I call angled).

So, in theory making angled vise can compensate small throat depth, but in practice I play with mock up and still not sure yet. When clamping something wide it is holding better if it is somehow centered in the jaw, which means small throat then.

[Tony Shea]

To this day I use the Ancora Yacht Service on my leg vise with the Lake Erie vise screw and couldn't be happier with how it works. I meant to do a review on this vise but I have had zero time lately to really dive into reviewing it, although I do feel like I owe it to Jim Ritter. Not only is the chain vise an amazing idea and works flawlessly but Jim Ritter is the true definition of a stand up guy!! I was given the opportunity to own one of these leg vise chain mechanisms as a Christmas gift a couple years back from Mr. Ritter himself for no real good reason. I was really tight on $ at the time and never dreamed of owning something other than the leg vise pin setup until he contacted me.

After installing and using the chain leg vise for over a couple of years I can honestly say that it works as good as advertised and holds up wonderfully.

[Andrey Kharitonkin]

To this day I use the Ancora Yacht Service on my leg vise with the Lake Erie vise screw and couldn't be happier with how it works. I meant to do a review on this vise but I have had zero time lately to really dive into reviewing it, although I do feel like I owe it to Jim Ritter. Not only is the chain vise an amazing idea and works flawlessly but Jim Ritter is the true definition of a stand up guy!! I was given the opportunity to own one of these leg vise chain mechanisms as a Christmas gift a couple years back from Mr. Ritter himself for no real good reason. I was really tight on $ at the time and never dreamed of owning something other than the leg vise pin setup until he contacted me.

After installing and using the chain leg vise for over a couple of years I can honestly say that it works as good as advertised and holds up wonderfully.

Chain and crisscross have one advantage over linear bearing is that they push the bottom end with the same force as the top end pushes to the clammed work piece. With linear bearing it is not so. You can only apply up to some amount of force and then it starts to go off vertical. The amount of force depends on materials used and on initial tilt angle (usually 1 degree). I saw somewhere a picture of linear bearing together with chain. Sounds like a plan B, but should glide as good as crisscross. Maintenance-wise crisscross is probably better though.