Workbench upcycle - Structural/design question - pocket hole placement

[laura vianello]

Hello, I got a LAB workbench for free. It is quite nice but I would like to
convert it into a workbench. I would like to create the cabinet that seats on
the two side arms. It is 60"x18" and the cabinet will be 60x15x12. I
am building with 5/8" plywood but I can do sides with 3/4" ply if
necessary. Considering how long it is I was planning to have the back made of
5/8" plywood instead of just a coupl eof cleats. The questions are:
a) Should the sides and back (5/8" too) overlap the bottom? This means
that the pocket holes will be in the bottom of the cab
b) does it matter if the holes are inside or outside the cab?
c) the two sides will overlap the back and the bottom, this means that the
back will have pocket holes to attach to the sides
d) Do I really need a face frame to keep the bottom from sagging?
e) would the partitions (at least 2 made of 3/4 ply would be enough to keep
bottom and top from sagging?
I have attached pics:
a) LAB workbench I have
b) My dream workbench

[Yonak Hawkins]

laura, if it were me I wouldn't gussy it up too much. When you do get your dream workbench your LAB workbench, with wheels added, will make a fine rolling multi-purpose cart. Now that my stationary work bench is covered with stuff, my carts are my default work surfaces and, since they are so handy for me, I prefer it that way.

Disclaimer : Everyone has their own work style.

[Wayne Lomman]

Laura, 5/8 ply for the whole job will be fine. You have 2 divisions so the spans are only 20 inches. If you attach the cabinet to the underside of the benchtop it won't sag so a face frame would be unnecessary.

If you are pocket screwing, the configuration should simply be driven by appearance. I'm a bit pragmatic - for a work bench I would simply drill and screw without pockets and get on with a paying job. In that situation the ends and back would sit on the bottom - no shear forces, only compression. Cheers

[laura vianello]

Hello Wayne, just a clarification, the back will NOT sit on the bottom. The table, as per picture, has only two arms on the side (not sure you would call them arms). Anyway there is no support to sit the back. I like the idea of just normal screws, considering that I can use 3/4 side and partitions and have a lot of space for drilling into. would it be enough then?

[laura vianello]

Yonak, I will never had a dream workbench unless I buy one. I am trying to have some space to work on while I have all my tools and screws and paint brushes etc in the same organized place. My kids and dear husband have taken over my house and I need my space for my hobbies. However space is limited in the basement and that table does not really look that good as it is. It is long and take space so why not to make it functional? It does not have a base to put the tools so it is just an ESD table. I know it is crazy but the plan is to throw away another dresser that is falling apart that has all the stuff in it. Thanks so much for your tip.

[Wayne Lomman]

Laura, my mistake re support but the cabinet will still work fine if it is attached to the top, either to the steel frame or the top itself. Use a 3/4 cleat if attaching to the top itself. Use 2" x 8 gauge chipboard screws at minimum 8" centres with a bead of glue for the general construction. Chipboard screws will pull the joint tight with just the 1/8 pilot hole and no clearance hole so are simple to use. This is how euro style kitchens have been constructed forever. Cheers

[laura vianello]

Thanks. I was not planning to attached to the top. because it has a back 1/2 ply that keep everything together, do I really need to screw to the top. I do not know what material is the top. It is an ESD table so it has laminate on the top but not sure what the block is made of. I would would say MDF core but husband disagrees.

[laura vianello]

Just a clarification which I cannot send by private mail because too long:
The partitions (2 3/4' thick in the middle) will create 3 blocks of drawers instead of staggered as you show. I have 2 dovetailed 34x14x2.5 drawers that I plan to recycle and I will build the remaining (need to figure out best layout but at this point I know I will have 3 drawers on the right). The drawers will serve for bits and screws etc. The drawers will not have metal slides. I want to try to use wood blocks, this will allow me to save $$ and take the drawers out if I need to go to a different "project room". I think that the partitions panels will help to keep it together and not sagging, I was planning to screw them from the top and the bottom. The back of cab, is 1/2 ply which will keep the box squared (no pocket holes on the outside). The sides at this time (I cut them already), are 3/4 plywood (no pockets hole outside). I just did the marking today and I marked for face frame hole too, but I hate to do that because of $$$ (using maple 1x2) and time. I might decide to build a face frame on piece by piece instead of building it as a whole piece and screwing it on. I am having hard time finding straight lumber and 60" long piece is a lot to take: a little mess up will become a misalignment at the end. Point taken for the side hidden behind the leg. I need to check it once again. If worse comes to worse, I will add a strip of BB 5/8 on the side so the BB will show as a frame all sides. I kind of like the BB lines. Find it cool and modern. Should I poly before assembly? The 2" ply as rail is a good idea that I had too. I decided to put pocket screws on the outside of top and bottom so I can add stoppers or a rail knowing where the joining screws are. Because the casters are so big, I might have space under the main cab to build. I wish a could find a metal rain to join the two arms, just as a piece of mind.
I have attached a "primitive" drawing for the layout. Open to suggestions.
Thanks to all of you for helping me!!!

[Dave Richards]

Hi Laura,

I tried to reply to your PM but it said you aren't allowing them.

I used SketchUp to draw that. If you want to learn it, I can help you.

[laura vianello]

Hello Dave, I got caught up in my daily REAL work and I had no time to look at it. I will find some youtube video to get knowledgeable on the sofware. Thanks for your kind offer. I am not progressing much with my LAB table. The box has been built and now I am making the drawers. It looks stable and I am positive it will hold.
Thanks again.

[Robert Engel]

After you load it up with tools I would be concerned the front will sag because it it unsupported across its length causing the drawers to bind.

I would suggest adding an apron of 1x 4 hardwood across the front. Or you can just wait an see if a sag develops the apron can easily be added after the cabinet is installed by just screwing from the inside of the box.

[laura vianello]

Final product: missing 3 drawer knobs but we are done with this project. DONE all by myself and some help from the kidslab workbench after.jpgdrawer showoffs.jpgdrawer showoffs2.jpg

[Yonak Hawkins]

It looks great, laura.

[laura vianello]

thanks Yonak!