Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Spraying water prior to finish pass....

  1. #1

    Spraying water prior to finish pass....

    Watching a turning demo at Rockler the demonstrator mentioned spraying water into his turning (bowl) before the final finish cut. He also suggested wet sanding with walnut oil to fill small tear outs.

    Along these lines it occurred to me to use a heavy coat of quick drying sanding sealer to more or less stabilize the wood from small tear outs or rough spots especially where you might be working against the grain.

    Any thoughts on this? Anyone tried this?

  2. #2
    The water method is one way to deal with very tear out prone wood. I had a very dry piece of Koa once, and couldn't get a good finish cut no matter what I did. I had heard of getting the wood wet. The process for me was to wipe it down with water, let it soak in for a minute or so, then using very light finish cuts, turn off the wet wood. It did get the tear out down to almost nothing, but I had to do a couple of wettings. I have no idea about how sanding sealer would work.

    As for the wet sanding, there are some that use it. It does keep the dust down, but I didn't like it because the slurry would fill in tear out holes, but I could still see them. I want to sand all of them out first, then apply the oil.

    robo hippy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Atikokan, Rainy River district, Ontario
    Posts
    3,540
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Rasmussen View Post
    Watching a turning demo at Rockler the demonstrator mentioned spraying water into his turning (bowl) before the final finish cut. He also suggested wet sanding with walnut oil to fill small tear outs.

    Along these lines it occurred to me to use a heavy coat of quick drying sanding sealer to more or less stabilize the wood from small tear outs or rough spots especially where you might be working against the grain.

    Any thoughts on this? Anyone tried this?
    I don’t like parts of the wood to dry quicker than other parts, it would setup tensions IMO and that’s not good I’d think.

    What I mean here is the heavy coat of sanding sealer, using some oil or water that you then turn away could help with getting a smooth cut.
    Last edited by Leo Van Der Loo; 11-13-2016 at 8:52 PM.
    Have fun and take care

  4. #4
    I keep a spray bottle of water with some Dawn dishing washing liquid in it and use that with various situations that I need to clean up a cut. Need to shake it prior to use and there needs to be enough soap to suds up when shaken. I don't soak the piece - just a light surface spray as at that point I am taking a very light cut.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Escondido, CA
    Posts
    6,224
    I have used dewaxed shellac as a sanding sealer to help with a soft surface. It has worked as one option.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    lufkin tx
    Posts
    2,054
    I have luck with a good soaking of lacquer thinned down to aid penetration, dried and returned, to handle soft tearing grain.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by robert baccus View Post
    I have luck with a good soaking of lacquer thinned down to aid penetration, dried and returned, to handle soft tearing grain.
    Yes,this is what I had in mind although thinning for penetration hadn't occurred to me.
    Last edited by Doug Rasmussen; 11-13-2016 at 9:48 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •