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Thread: 3 Waterlox questions

  1. #16
    Whit, Waterlox is a varnish not an oil finish in the sense you mean. It dries and cures hard and is durable. I have a bar top that I finished with Waterlox several years ago and it has done well.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    outside Indianapolis
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    296
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Whit, Waterlox is a varnish not an oil finish in the sense you mean. It dries and cures hard and is durable. I have a bar top that I finished with Waterlox several years ago and it has done well.
    Noted. On their webpage under "What is Waterlox" they describe their product as a combination of tung oil and resin modified that form a easy to use varnish so they promote having a tung oil component in their products. the back and forth about laying on top vs, penetration of the wood is a bit of a straw man argument. If it seals and protects the wood then it's doing the job. Next is look, sheen, quality and durability. Lots of products work well so there are many paths to the same destination.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kansas City
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    2,652
    Oil + resin + heat = varnish. True of any varnish.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northeast Georgia
    Posts
    834
    I've tried a few water based finishes, and I don't know if it's lack of penetration or what, but they just look dead to me. I've used general finishes 'wood turners' which is really their water based poly, on some turned objects for the kitchen, and while it dries fast and let me get multiple coats on quickly, it just doesn't look the same. It's been super durable on my salt/pepper mills which get handled every day. I've tried a few other brands and just haven't been happy. The last walnut pepper mill I did I finished first with shellac to get some of that depth and then hit it with GF poly.

    Especially on walnut, I haven't found a good substitute for oil/oil based finishes as the first coat.
    Where did I put that?

  5. #20
    I've waterloxed kitchen counters, and it can stand up to heavy use, but you'll need to reapply every 6 months or so. My regimen is to sand down to 320 or even more, then wipe on with a carefully folded old cotton diaper (the BEST for wiping), watching for any pooling. As other have noted all Waterlox starts out glossy. I like the satin the best. Between coats, a quick swipe with 600 grit to knock off any dirt or high spots. 3 coats should do just fine. For reapplying, clean carefully to get any grease off, sand with 320 or whatever I have around, then another wipe. I'm a bit fan of waterlox but it's kind of pricy.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,895
    What do you clean it with to remove the grease?

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    What do you clean it with to remove the grease?
    Just kitchen spray cleaner.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northeast Georgia
    Posts
    834
    So I tried the 'triple wipe' described above but got horrible streak marks so sanded lightly and did another wipe on coat and left it alone. Lesson learned. Finish done.

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