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Thread: Assembly jig (square blocks) for ply box or drawer - Quick urgent Question

  1. #1

    Assembly jig (square blocks) for ply box or drawer - Quick urgent Question

    Hello,
    I built 4 great wood jigs to help me to assembly boxes. I decided that for most of the assembly going forward I will use also glue. Well, the problem is that the jigs are wood and if the glue drops out of the joint and on the jig I am assembly a ply box or drawer to a jig, which is not what I obviously want.
    How can I make my wood jig glue-proof? Would poly spray work? Wax? Please help

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Clear packing tape.

  3. #3
    There are several ways:

    1) Wax your jigs
    2) Finish them with shellac
    3) Line them with packing tape.

  4. #4
    Here my jigs pictures. I do not think the tape is an option. I have some shellac but I never use it...maybe wax will be faster. I was hoping for some spray kind of things so it is more uniform. Thanks so much for your help.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
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    Ok, third attempt. Try wax paper between work piece and jig.

  6. #6
    I think that wax paper will not work. The block on the top is maple too. While I can put wax paper on the bottom before installing the block with the pin, I cannot protect the sides of the block with wax paper. It would be quite cumbersome to protect so many sides. I might have to change the jig material and design. Any suggestion of smart diy jigs which would not require crazy advanced tools (like a table saw)?
    Thanks

  7. #7
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    You could try cutting away the corners so the glue would not contact the jig, something like this:


  8. #8
    That is a good idea but it is hard now to remove the corner. The corner was keeping my pieces perfectly 90 degrees flash to each other. I have applied wax, Let's see what happened. I might do a second set the way you shown. Thanks!!

  9. #9
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    I think cutting away a small part of the corner is a good idea. I do that on my jigs and it helps with alignment. It is too easy to get a small bit of something in the corner and cause a problem.

    I use shellac to finish jigs and then paste wax. I also use Press n Seal instead of wax paper. It is much thinner and works better.

    Press n Seal is one of those kitchen supplies that I use in my shop. It also works well for holding things together. We use it in the kitchen and has replaced Glad wrap.

  10. #10
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    I also think removing part of the corner is a good idea, but if you can't, for whatever reason, remove the corner, you could bevel the intersecting corners instead. If you are concerned about losing "square" when removing the pieces to bevel, you could dowel the pieces together before taking them apart to ensure they go back together square. The beveled edges would allow room for the glue & you could then scrape off any built-up glue after glue-up.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by laura vianello View Post
    That is a good idea but it is hard now to remove the corner. The corner was keeping my pieces perfectly 90 degrees flash to each other. I have applied wax, Let's see what happened. I might do a second set the way you shown. Thanks!!
    Drill it with a Forstner bit. The corner should be open for more than just glue clearance. You want to avoid misalignment due to any spoil getting in that area. As to making glue pop off; my workbench is finished with BLO and then paste wax. Glue drips pop right off and have for years. I refresh the wax about once a year.
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    Last edited by glenn bradley; 11-15-2016 at 8:14 AM.
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  12. #12
    Al, I waxed and worked well. However, I want to follow your suggestion with the next set. Would you have a pic to show? Not sure I understand how I can bevel or I can dowel....Not sure. I am using pocket screws after gluing. Remember I am a newbie

  13. #13
    Thanks!!! I will do that with my nexxt set. I need to buy the Forstner bits. I have none. Suggestion for good brand?

  14. #14
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    In Glenn's sketch you could bevel the corner where he shows the drilled hole. Additionally, if you should get glue along the bottom inside edge of each "side-piece" & the bottom plate, you could bevel allong the bottom inside inside edge of each piece. The bevels could be easily done with a table saw. The dowelling could be done after you have assembeled the pieces square & secured them. Then, should you have to take things apart, the dowells will for a sqwuare re-assembly. You could wax the bevelled surfaces to prevent glue adhesion.
    Thoughts entering one's mind need not exit one's mouth!
    As I age my memory fades .... and that's a load off my mind!

    "We Live In The Land Of The Free, Only Because Of The Brave"
    “The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living."
    "
    Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill

  15. #15
    I do not feel comfortable using a table saw. It is too much of a hassle to take it outside and set it up (I do not have a workshop). My projects (bigger than me!!!) are done at lunch time between work hours. I need to find ways to get fast! forgot to mention that the purpose of my jig is not just keeping the pieces squared together but also avoiding one to move to far from the edge of the other. If I remove the corner, the pieces will move forward when not intentended. I have tons of scrap wood and I can build others. Any pic of good assembly jigs? should I start a post "show me your jig"?

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