The thing to do, Jim, is come up with a believable story. "I did it this way because..."
The thing to do, Jim, is come up with a believable story. "I did it this way because..."
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
I'd not recommend you use the half lap method to join your panel boundary. I have used this frequently in the past, thinking that it would simplify things. I don't think it simplifies at all and in fact makes glue up more complicated. Instead of two clamps for a mortise and tenon type frame you need eight. Four of them just to hold the half laps together, the other four to pull the frame members together. Mortise and tenon, especially when well formed (not too sloppy a fit) go together with minimal clamping. Less issues clamping makes for less stress on you. Cutting the half laps so everything is coplanar when glued up is also difficult, even with machinery.
I guess you bought your round plane at auction/flea market Jim? I do not remember seeing anyone making these in recent years.
Good point about the half lap Pat, my experience has been similar with this method.
Joinery planes I have are: a skew rabbet plane, a small plow plane, router plane, medium shoulder plane, the LV basic joinery planes. I am trying not to get much more complicated, although Jim's idea of a rounding plane that would allow me to make curved raised panels does sound like a good idea.
I guess sawing waste wood for mortises and tenons with a back, hand or bow saw will improve my sawing ability as well.
Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 11-22-2016 at 4:53 PM.
In the episode of The Woodwright's Shop, "Painless Panel Doors". Roy goes through making the stiles and rails, butt jointing them (simpler than beading).
google "painless panel doors woodwright" and you should come up with a couple of PBS stations that have the full episode.
Last edited by John Schtrumpf; 11-22-2016 at 6:00 PM.
Mike,
There are a few makers, but the price is way outside my ballpark.
I have bought a few at antique stores, some on the auction site but try to get matched pairs. Patrick Leach often has them listed on his site and likely has some in stock if you contact him.
Here is a post of mine about how it pays to talk to people at flea markets and antique shops:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t-Pays-to-Talk
I have since bought a few more from Dave. Here is the post on that:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...allet-Emptying
I also bought a few more on ebay. So often on ebay folks have no idea what they are selling. This can be good if they set a buy it now price too low. Often they think they have found a solid brick of gold and set the starting price way too high.
I would advise against buying planes without blades unless you want to start making your own. I have had decent luck restoring even some pretty rusty blades.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
IF one has a Stanley 45 or a #55.......rounds are fairly easy to do. The 45 even had a special "bottom" for the hollows and rounds. The 55 didn't really need those. You can set up the 55 to make fancy raised panels....
grooved.jpg
I re-ground an extra #29 cutter to make a "rounds" cutter for my #45.....
Last edited by steven c newman; 11-22-2016 at 8:15 PM.
This is my tablesaw miter jig. Ain't rocket science and the price was right. The runners are 1/4" x 3/4" waxed hardwood screwed to a piece of MDF. I ran the MDF deep enough into the saw to get my parallel cut and then lined up the angled pieces as close to 45 degrees as I could get. What really matters is getting a perfect 90 degrees at the corner because any mismatch on one side will be compensated on the other automatically. A framing square came in handy
I run longer pieces of frame stock with the back rabbett and rounded front edges in advance. Then you chop. You can eyeball your marks on the inside of the miter against the saw kerf very closely. Be sure to mark which are your A and B corners before you cut!
Not shown is a biscuit router bit in the table with the fence set to slide the 45 degree edges in the center of the thickness. Glue-up, clamp and check for square by measuring across the diagonals. They hold together well. I managed to drop one with picture and glass installed and it didn't even creak. sh
miter jig.jpg