Best methods to cut plywood without a table saw

[Curt Harms]

I have a shop made guide - aluminum fence glued to 1/4" masonite. I think a key is using a Porter Cable 314 trim saw on it. The saw is sorta underpowered for frequent use but the base is quite a bit longer than it is wide. Circular saws can be the opposite - wider than it is long. The little P-C saw tracks very nicely along the aluminum fence, no tendency to cock or move away from the fence. Having said that, the Griz track saw would be pretty tempting for not-too-heavy use.

[Jay Nossen]

As others have said already, circular saw guide would be the way to go. Here's a quick "How To": http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2010...r-cleaner-cuts

I have a 4x8 work table and two sheets of 2'x8'x1/2" rigid foam that I put under the ply to protect the table.

[Curt Harms]

As others have said already, circular saw guide would be the way to go. Here's a quick "How To": http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2010...r-cleaner-cuts

I have a 4x8 work table and two sheets of 2'x8'x1/2" rigid foam that I put under the ply to protect the table.

Good point about the foam. That pretty much eliminates pinching and the last bit of the cut breaking instead of being cut.

[Roger Feeley]

Bruce, I've used a variation of your guide for years. In my case, I used 12" wide masonite and about 7" of half inch MDF. As you did, I used the saw to rip off the excess masonite which calibrates the guide to THAT saw and THAT blade. So, if you are going to do this buy several blades.

I bought a special saw for the jig with the motor on the right hand side of the blade. Since I am right handed, it puts the motor weight over the jig making it much easier to control the cut. I keep a really nice Freud plywood blade on that saw since all it ever does is cut sheet goods.

I should say that this thing is not as safe as a track saw. I have to use my left hand to make sure that the saw doesn't drift away from the jig which isn't optimal.

Edit: If I had it to do over again, I would make it a bit wider. Unless I'm careful, my clamps can get in the way of the saw.
Edit2: I have two guides: a 4' one and an 8' one.

[Charles Lent]

Many who use a track saw or circular saw and straight edge use a sheet of foam as a backer for the plywood and lay it on the floor to cut, cutting only slightly below the plywood and into the foam sheet. I've done this, but two knee replacements, and back trouble make it nearly impossible to get down on the floor and then back up any more. I've not treated my body very well and I'm paying for it now as I get older.

I built a cutting table, using banquet style table legs that are available from Northern and Harbor Freight. The table top frame is just a standing 1 X 4 perimeter frame about 30" X 70" in size, with short 2 X 4 cross pieces only where necessary to attach the folding legs, plus one in the table center for strength. All of the 2 X 4s are laid flat and flush with the table top edge of the 1 X 4 perimeter frame and all of the joints are joined with bisquits and glue, so there's no metal anywhere near the top surface in the table. The only metal are the legs and the short attachment screws for the legs plus 2 additional screws that I'm about to discuss the use of. The top 1" or so of the table contains no metal at all. To one side of the table frame I installed two scraps of plywood with a screw through each that is off center toward one edge of this scrap. When attached to the 1 X 4 table side, this screw is below the center of the 1 X 4 and positioned so the piece of plywood scrap can be turned so it either sticks up above the table frame or turned 180 deg to be below the top of the table frame. When the legs are folded they fold up inside the recess in the bottom of the 1 X 4 frame and below the 2 X 4s laid flat and flush with the top surface of the table. I store my folded cutting table leaning against my sheet stock in my shop, but use it in my driveway whenever I need to break down sheet stock, since my shop is too small to handle full sheets even though I have a Unisaw and 50" Unifence.

To load a piece of sheet goods onto the table, I just turn these two scraps of plywood so they stick up above the table top surface and then lay the table over on it's side with these plywood scraps down against the ground. I then place a piece of sheet goods against the table and onto these plywood scraps. Then I reach down under the table edge and the sheet goods and lift both into an upright position, with the sheet of material laying flat on top of the table. I can then turn these pieces of plywood scrap so they are down below the top surface of the table frame and re-position the sheet to better center it's weight over the table frame. I always make my cuts over the approximate center of the table, so when the cut is completed, all of the pieces remain on the table and nothing falls or breaks.

Since building this table, I have found very little use for saw horses. I now frequently take this table with me whenever doing any work away from my shop. Since there is no metal in the top 1" of the table, I can set my saw or router to cut fully through the stock and about 1/4" into the table with no fear of hitting metal. If I ever cut enough that kerfs in the table make the top too chewed up to use, I'll just make a new table top and transfer the legs to it.

I have made wooden straight edges like others have described, but I now use the aluminum Straight Edge Wide Body Clamps #582 and #596 from Peachtree woodworking www.ptreeusa.com. I've made a saddle attachment for my circular saw that lets me slide it along these clamps much like the design of a track saw.

Breaking up sheet goods is now quite easy for me and this old broken body, since I no longer have to bend over to break up the sheet goods or even pick up fallen pieces any more. Even getting the sheets onto the table is now relatively easy to do, even though I still have to bend over once for each sheet.

The attached photos show my original table, all made from 2 X 4s. I have since replaced this table with a lighter version of the same design using the 1 X 4 table edging instead of the 2 X 4s. I'm getting older (74 now) and the original table was getting too heavy for me to move easily. I can now move and carry this new lighter table anywhere that I need to.

Charley