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Thread: Glue for Split-top Roubo slabs

  1. #16
    TBII or III here. III will give you a little more open time. The problem with 2part epoxy is that you have to keep remixing, and on a large bench, the clean up can be messy. With TB, the clean up is soap and water. TB is plenty strong here.

    On light woods, TB2 can sometimes dry to an orange/yellow that will telegraph through the seam. TB3 dries dark brown and less noticeable, IMHO.

    The biggest bang for the buck for a seamless look is to joint very well, and clamp your boards one at a time with cauls, so you can get perfect pressure throughout the entire length.

  2. #17
    Brad,
    I used Titebond Extend on my ash Roubo. No problems, no open joints and easy to clean up as Prashun said. I ordered a gallon of the stuff as recommended by Benchcraft and had about 1/2 left over. I was really liberal with the glue. I did use an awful lot of clamps and like Prashun only laminated one board at a time using cauls. The joints are invisible.
    Regards,
    Tom

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    Thank you Malcolm for the explanation. Also, glad to see you're back in the shop and making progress on the bench. Look forward to the rest of that build (as I'm sure you are as well!).

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Asheville, NC
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    I just made one with TB II this summer. I used 5/4+ red oak and glued-up 4 boards at a time so I could flatten one side on a 6" jointer. Two of the boards had already been routed for square dog holes. Then I glued them all together as close as I could. It hasn't fallen apart yet. sh

  5. #20
    Malcolm,
    Thanks for clarifying; I had been under the impression of it the reverse i.e. that it was easy to starve an epoxy joint with too much clamping pressure - not sure where I even heard that.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Mid coast Maine
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    477
    I agree with Randy you can have too much pressure and starve an epoxy joint. I feel it does depend on the wood species too.
    Jim
    Ancora Yacht Service

  7. #22
    Join Date
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    Well gosh, seems Google University agrees, but I clamp the heck out of epoxy joints and have never had a failure. My belief is that the epoxy infiltrates the wood and when it hardens it makes the two pieces as one. This is not so for less porous woods like rosewood.

    I saturate the faces to be glued (both faces- very important) and let it soak in, then clamp it. I have had to separate screw ups before and the wood splits out before the epoxy fails.

  8. #23
    In my experience it is far easier to starve an epoxy joint than a PVA joint. If you don't want to see a glue line then you simply have to make a good joint and any glue but resorcinol will get you there. There is no need to suffer with epoxy for your build PVA will outlast all of us and be invisible if done properly.

    Personally I would use plastic resin glue in place of epoxy every time. Less expensive, long open time, easier clean up, no creep, water based if you use the powdered form. Epoxy will always be the glue of last resort in my shop. I have used plenty of epoxy...

  9. If you're worried about an invisible glue joint, you need to worry about your joint, not your glue.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Southwest Virginia
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    277
    I used TB3 on mine a couple of years ago.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Swanson View Post
    Thanks everyone for the recommendations. I will be using a Domino for registration purposes, so slippery surfaces with epoxy wouldn't be a problem.
    Domino seems like an excellent idea, will probably be my next corded tool.

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